Upcoming Mods

**ChvyCruzen** · 06-08-2010, 10:36 AM

I'm feeling slow in my SS i just bought 2 months ago.... Figured I'd get a head start on savings for mods during winter. Yeah you heard me right, I'm gonna start saving now....

I'm thinking of:

SFC
LT's (dunno which kinds are best for road/street use)
ORY
Cat Back CME (I have the SLP CME, dont know if it can be any better)
Tune
Maybe drop the car an inch (I'd have to roll my fender lips since I'm running 315's)

Car came with Pro-Kit springs but I've read around and I see people say Stranos (sp?) are better? Car also came with SLP MAF, does Frost know how to tune the PCM to this MAF? Should I just sell it and forget about it or try a different one?

**MrMasterCraft** · 06-08-2010, 11:16 AM

I'd ask Frost about the MAF. In the computer and tuning, I read a post the other day where he responded to that MAF in question. If you go on there and browse the first page, you'll find the MAF post.

SFCs are the best, hands down. When I orginally bought my car, it already had the LTs, Borla, ORY (hi-flo cats), and open filter induction thingy with the functional SS ram-air hood. So I decided to focus more of a suspension build-up before I did anymore power mods.

I'd go with SFCs first and LTs second, just as you've done. Then go with a body mounted torque arm (include new crossmember I beleive, and mount), LCAs and relocation brackets, PHB, and lastly, if you so desire, drop it.

This is what I would've done, if I wasn't looking at trading it for a truck

**MrMasterCraft** · 06-08-2010, 11:18 AM

Here ya go...

http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=136811

**blackcar** · 06-08-2010, 11:54 AM

I have SFC for sale. PM me if you are intrested

**ChvyCruzen** · 06-08-2010, 12:51 PM

Originally Posted by MrMasterCraft

I'd ask Frost about the MAF. In the computer and tuning, I read a post the other day where he responded to that MAF in question. If you go on there and browse the first page, you'll find the MAF post.

SFCs are the best, hands down. When I orginally bought my car, it already had the LTs, Borla, ORY (hi-flo cats), and open filter induction thingy with the functional SS ram-air hood. So I decided to focus more of a suspension build-up before I did anymore power mods.

I'd go with SFCs first and LTs second, just as you've done. Then go with a body mounted torque arm (include new crossmember I beleive, and mount), LCAs and relocation brackets, PHB, and lastly, if you so desire, drop it.

This is what I would've done, if I wasn't looking at trading it for a truck

I already read that MAF post yesterday. No one said anything about Frost being able to tune a MAF but the thread seems to imply that Frost can/does tune PCM's for MAF's.

SFC is definitely my first mod, as well at LT's. I forgot about the torque arm, I just read a post about that the other day - I'll probably do that too.

PHB - pan hard bar? Where does that go? Rear end?

I still want to drop it, I want better springs than stock - there has to be a set out there thats better than stock. It'll give me a chance to put in nice shocks as well.

Why are you trading for a truck????

**MrMasterCraft** · 06-09-2010, 07:46 AM

The PHB is what keeps the rear centered, also referred to as a "track bar" by most. They're offered in non-adjustable, as well as adjustable. Fairly cheap in price as well...

I've been tossing around the idea for a while now of getting rid of the car for a nice truck or GM suv. Either that or a purple/light blue TA. If I get the truck, I'm going to have to get the purple or light blue TA for the girlfriend either way

**35th-ANV-SS** · 06-10-2010, 09:13 AM

Dropping the car changes the car's suspensions geometry.

If you plan on dropping your car, you will want an adjustable PHB. Get one that is adjustable "on the car" preferably. Dropping the car will shift the rear-end to one side. The adjustable PHB will give you the ability to recenter it where it needs to be as mentioned.

Also, if dropping the car, those LCA relocation brackets are a good idea.

Lastly, you would want an adjustable torque arm eventually if you plan on really adding some power so you can adjust your pinion angle to the correct setting after lowering. It comes preset from the factory at -2 degrees I believe. Your OEM torque arm is non-adjustable. Therefore, when you lower it, your pinion angle could/will change and not be optimal anymore.