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Thread: slp loudmouth require weld?
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03-05-2011, 09:31 AM #1
slp loudmouth require weld?
called local exhaust shop and they cant get me in and i dont want to wait till monday...does slp loudmouth 1 catback exhaust require any welding?
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03-05-2011, 10:38 AM #2
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03-05-2011, 10:38 AM #3
If you buy the complete kit and your exhaust has not been previously modified, it is all bolt on. All necessary clamps are included. SLPs instructions aren't the best so take your time and lay out all of the parts until you figure out where all the pipes and clamps go. Take the time to take off all of the stickers before you install or they will stink as they burn off later.
Tricky parts are going to be getting the old clamps and pipes apart. Once you get the car safely up in the air to give you room to work (ramps and jack stands are sufficient) soak all of the joints and clamps down with a good penetrant and let it sit for a couple of hours then shoot them again before you start working.
Be patient, wear gloves (lots of sharp edges under there), and use a rubber mallet where necessary to encourage sticking slip joints to separate. When putting it back together the two areas that are hard to get right right are the pipe over the axle (make sure you have as much vetical clearance as possible but not hitting the under body) and getting the tips centered under your rear valance (having a second person to hold the tips in place while you snug everything down is a real help).
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03-05-2011, 01:49 PM #4
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03-05-2011, 02:20 PM #5
just got it on.. sounds good!! took about a hour n half tho alot longer than it should of.. those instructions were pretty bad...question..if i get a new Y pipe will it make the sound any different? i see that the y pipe is slightly smaller than the rest.
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03-05-2011, 02:21 PM #6
cats are gutted too.. i like the sound.. alot of people dont...
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03-05-2011, 02:27 PM #7
glad you got it on.
dont waste your money on a different y-pipe. sounds like you are running stock manifolds/cats/y-pipe. its not worth the money spent for little to no gains.
if you plan LT's in the future, then get a y-pipe at that time if its not included with the LT's as a package.
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03-05-2011, 02:46 PM #8
i want some headers... jus heard they are a bitch to put on.. and i dont have the money to pay a shop to do it.
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03-05-2011, 02:58 PM #9
like all things, headers take time. with the right tools and room to work with, it's not that bad of a job.
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03-05-2011, 03:08 PM #10
- Join Date
- Jan 2010
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- East of Cleveland, Ohio
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- 3,827
Black- 99 WS.6 - Modified
My L/Ts went in no problem. Did them by myself too.
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03-05-2011, 04:24 PM #11
dont have the money for some hooker,pacesetter,slps...how about this...lol..they all do the same right...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/98-99...item335ed8d477
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03-06-2011, 03:27 PM #12
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03-06-2011, 03:43 PM #13
- Join Date
- Nov 2009
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- NOVA
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- 1,266
2002 C5 - M6 - Blue- 2000 Z28 - A4 - Pewter
I've heard time and time again, that LTs with no cats (or gutted ones) and a LM, is raspier than raspy can be. Alot of complaints about it. I don't find it too bad, from the two cars I've heard in person and the countless videos I've seen.
What I CAN tell you, is that with the 3.23 gears in my '99 and the SLP Y (hi-flo cats) and LM1 that I have, cruising at 70mph gets extremely irritating and annoying! I've got a 46 mile commute one way to work (24 of it is strictly interstate). I always chalk up my speed between 75-80, just to get rid of the sound. That's with stock exhaust manifolds as well. My 2000 has LTs with hi-flo cats and a different Y (not sure of the brand, doesn't matter), and a Borla exhaust, and it's not even half as loud as the '99 unless you go WOT (at which point, its louder, can't figure it out).
2000 Z - Light Pewter Metallic - A4 - 130k - Bolt Ons - My Pride and Joy
2002 C5 - Electron Blue - M6 - 32k - My Dream Car
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03-07-2011, 08:08 AM #14
- Join Date
- Dec 2006
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- Jenks/Tulsa
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- 4,798
Light Pewter Metallic- y2k 8-cylinder catfish
No, you can clamp everything together, but many also weld to help against exhaust leaks.
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03-07-2011, 10:47 AM #15
FWIW... I have the LMII and I welded everything together. I was sick of fighting with minor exhaust leaks. The only thing that is not welded is the Ypipe after the collectors.
2018 Tahoe - Silver - OEM
2008 Z06 - Velocity Yellow - BBE exhuast - Airaid CAI **sold**
2002 Z06 - Electron Blue Metallic - D1 - E85 - 701 rwhp 687 rwtq **sold**
2002 Z28: M6 NBM - cam and boltons - 396rwhp 357 rwtq **sold**
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03-07-2011, 12:14 PM #16
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03-09-2011, 08:45 AM #17
I had a buddy help me, we put it on fine. 90% of the time was taking the old one off.. It was difficult where the Y pipe met up with the rest of the exhaust, that part was rusted together pretty bad for some reason..
Everything else lined right up and bolted on. We tightened down the clamps barely at we put it together on the car so we had some wiggle room. Then once it looks good, lines up how you want (i wanted dthe SLP facing down so you could read it because i'm OCD like that, etc) and then we tightened all the clamps pretty tight.. Went for a long test ride and then waited for the exhaust to cool. Then checked all the clamps again and tightened them further.
Doing this method, I havent really experienced any exhaust leaks and I love the setup.2000 Camaro Z28 M6: LM1, LID, KONI 4/3 SHOCKS, STRANO SPRINGS, UMI ADJ PHB, UMI STB, UMI 2PT SFC, UMI SWAY BARS.
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