Quick Question EGR/AIR Delete

**ChevyZ76** · 07-15-2014, 12:42 PM

I have the block off plates to delete the erg/air. No i have been search but I can't seem to find directions and pics on how to do it. Also the block off plates did not come with gaskets. Should I get some or just use some black RTV? Finally I am thinking I will need some vacuum caps, anything else I need? Thanks guys

**theorangeguy** · 07-15-2014, 12:56 PM

You will need vacuum caps but I couldnt tell you what exact size...I bought a variety pack from the parts store and just used what I needed.

Here's the link for the secondary air delete...i'll try to find one for the EGR.

http://www.ls1.com/forums/f6/seconda...emoval-130641/

**ChevyZ76** · 07-15-2014, 12:58 PM

About how long does tis take?

**theorangeguy** · 07-15-2014, 01:02 PM

Originally Posted by ChevyZ76

About how long does tis take?

depends on if you can lift the car or not. removing the air system took me about 30 minutes with the front end in the air. EGR would probably take another 30 minutes. I'd plan on spending a good hour to an hour and a half for everything if you do it all at once and dont need to make a run to the parts store.

**ChevyZ76** · 07-15-2014, 01:15 PM

How about gaskets that go were the erg bolts to the headers?

**theorangeguy** · 07-15-2014, 01:31 PM

Originally Posted by ChevyZ76

How about gaskets that go were the erg bolts to the headers?

the plate I got came with them...but you can go to the parts store and pick up a standard exhaust gasket and cut out a small piece to fit between the hole in the manifold and the plate you have.

**pajeff02** · 07-15-2014, 06:20 PM

You can usually re-use the stock gaskets. If they look rough, some high-temp copper RTV is the way to go.

**CalvinMD** · 02-14-2017, 08:22 AM

Any danger of ping/ detonation without EGR? I'm running a big rad and a 160 thermo to keep it there and I'm still leary of doing this because of small CR bump to 11:5

***SMWS6TA*** · 02-15-2017, 06:44 AM

No, the EGR is an emissions (fail) that was tried, GM got rid of it on 01/02 yrs.

You might want to rethink the temp gauge since you appear to live in the North. LS1's were designed to work and perform better at the 190* temp range. If you live in the south like I do I would then say the 165* T-stat would be ok because the eng temp would still reach the 190's.

If you know a tuner or someone that has HPTuners you can have the fans turn on at 160* and keep the T-stat at 195* and still get some benefits in managing the cooling of the engine.

My 403ci CR is 11.5 and have no coolant issues with the OEM radiator, well with the exception of one of fans died over the last week or two. Waiting on a new motor to fix that.

**CalvinMD** · 02-15-2017, 07:54 AM

My car was bored to the max and in Summer with the fans running and AC on it puts such s load on the alternator and battery that the compressor turns off because it's so hot. I put an aluminum 2 row with 1" tubes and now it runs like stock. The OEM was totally overworked

**CalvinMD** · 02-15-2017, 07:56 AM

I may just go Dorman replacement intake and get my TB ported. That should be plenty for me. I haven't heard anything bad about the Dorman and it's cheap enough