New engine break in

**transamgirl89** · 04-22-2011, 06:36 PM

So I'm having a new engine put in my car this week and I've never had a "new" car/engine. What oil do I need to use and how fast should I drive to properly break it in and seat the rings? It's a V6 3800. I usually use Mobil 1 synthetic oil but I was told that is to slippery for the first oil change and it could affect how the rings set. How often should I have the oil changed and filters replaced? I need some advice asap!

**Mr. Luos** · 04-22-2011, 06:40 PM

If you want the most power out of it and are willing to sacrifice how long it lasts....heat cycle it a few times and then romp on it.
If you want it to last, heat cycle a few times and then keep it under 2500RPM (lower if possible) for 500-750 miles. Change oil.

**transamgirl89** · 04-22-2011, 06:46 PM

Originally Posted by Mr. Luos

If you want the most power out of it and are willing to sacrifice how long it lasts....heat cycle it a few times and then romp on it.
If you want it to last, heat cycle a few times and then keep it under 2500RPM (lower if possible) for 500-750 miles. Change oil.

What do you mean by heat cycle it? And how fast should I drive?

**Mr. Luos** · 04-22-2011, 06:53 PM

Heat cycle is warm up....turn off and let cool down. Do it again.

How fast depends on the RPM. Most say nothing over 55-60 though.

**transamgirl89** · 04-22-2011, 06:55 PM

Originally Posted by Mr. Luos

Heat cycle is warm up....turn off and let cool down. Do it again.

How fast depends on the RPM. Most say nothing over 55-60 though.

Well going that slow should be interesting seeing as I live in Atlanta.

Heres hoping I don't get run over. lol

**wileyCoyote** · 04-22-2011, 07:31 PM

well, i could be wrong, but i think that there is "break in oil" that you are supposed to use for like 500 miles... i think you are supposed to be "easy" on it, but make sure the engine revs through a range of RPMs during the break in period.. who is installing it? i'd be sure to ask them about the break in oil and driving habits for break in.. oh, and congrats on your new engine, should give some peace of mind for a long time!

**Z28Thunder** · 04-22-2011, 07:45 PM

Any oil that is not synthetic would work good. You do not want to use anything synthetic during break in. But I have also heard it is fine to use a synthetic during break in. I hope that helps...

**transamgirl89** · 04-22-2011, 08:22 PM

Originally Posted by wileyCoyote

well, i could be wrong, but i think that there is "break in oil" that you are supposed to use for like 500 miles... i think you are supposed to be "easy" on it, but make sure the engine revs through a range of RPMs during the break in period.. who is installing it? i'd be sure to ask them about the break in oil and driving habits for break in.. oh, and congrats on your new engine, should give some peace of mind for a long time!

A Napa Certified shop is installing it. I told them 10w30 mobil 1 synthetic. And yes I will definatly have piece of mind knowing all my other engine problems are solved! I had a bad oil pan gasket seal that broke and I fixed it only for it to go bad 4 months later. I'll call them Monday and see what they say. They're getting the engine from Jasper Engines, they supply remanufactured motors with a 3yr/100k warranty.

**wileyCoyote** · 04-22-2011, 08:33 PM

Originally Posted by transamgirl89

A Napa Certified shop is installing it. I told them 10w30 mobil 1 synthetic. And yes I will definatly have piece of mind knowing all my other engine problems are solved! I had a bad oil pan gasket seal that broke and I fixed it only for it to go bad 4 months later. I'll call them Monday and see what they say. They're getting the engine from Jasper Engines, they supply remanufactured motors with a 3yr/100k warranty.

the mechanic i go to deals w/ jasper products - he likes 'em! you might call jasper and ask about break in - if there is a certain break in oil they recommend etc... then after that i'd assume you could go back to whatever oil you like, mobil 1, what have you..

good luck!

**transamgirl89** · 04-22-2011, 08:50 PM

Originally Posted by wileyCoyote

the mechanic i go to deals w/ jasper products - he likes 'em! you might call jasper and ask about break in - if there is a certain break in oil they recommend etc... then after that i'd assume you could go back to whatever oil you like, mobil 1, what have you..

good luck!

Do you know of anyone who has used Jasper and how their products hold up?

**wileyCoyote** · 04-22-2011, 08:58 PM

Originally Posted by transamgirl89

Do you know of anyone who has used Jasper and how their products hold up?

i don't think i do personally, but i just know my mechanic seems to like there products.

**transamgirl89** · 04-22-2011, 09:06 PM

I think I'm gonna get regular oil for the first few changes cause I have to change it at 500 miles so no sense in wasting money on synthetic so soon.

**Smittro** · 04-22-2011, 10:30 PM

You don't need all that "heat cycle" crap..
It's an all iron engine,, start it up let it achieve operation temp, check for leaks and drive it..
Just don't hammer on it and burn tires till you get @ least 500 miles on it or so..
Moderate repeated accelleration will help break it in..
Like I said just don't beat on it right away..
It may smoke a little here and there (blue oil smoke) till the rings seat in the bores aswell..
Sometimes new motors do that but it goes away pretty quickly as the engine breaks in..

**Mr. Luos** · 04-23-2011, 06:15 AM

Originally Posted by Smittro

You don't need all that "heat cycle" crap..
It's an all iron engine,, start it up let it achieve operation temp, check for leaks and drive it..
Just don't hammer on it and burn tires till you get @ least 500 miles on it or so..
Moderate repeated accelleration will help break it in..
Like I said just don't beat on it right away..
It may smoke a little here and there (blue oil smoke) till the rings seat in the bores aswell..
Sometimes new motors do that but it goes away pretty quickly as the engine breaks in..

Iron block means the valvesprings don't need the "heat cycle" crap??

**TLS_Addict** · 04-23-2011, 06:58 AM

I think its more about rpm than it is MPH isnt it?

Also, have been told and every engine I have had built I dont let it sit at the same RPM for more than a few minutes at a time. Also been told the heat cycle isnt needed but some people swear by it. lol

How about it.

1. Engine put in with new oil.
2. Start up.
3. Drive to destination without driving like a V-tech person and destroying it.
4. Change oil at 500 miles.
5. Drive it as you will.

Now, I had one guy who builds race engines tell me to drive it like I plan to drive it from the get go. Some people drive their cars like they are racing them the moment they get them.

**Smittro** · 04-23-2011, 10:14 AM

Originally Posted by Mr. Luos

Iron block means the valvesprings don't need the "heat cycle" crap??

30 years and 10 engine builds to date and never heat cycled anything..

Over 100k on them all..

Warm it up,, check for leaks,, drive it....

No one is saying you are wrong.. Just not needed.. Iron heat soaks quikly compared to aluminum...

**Smittro** · 04-23-2011, 10:16 AM

Originally Posted by TLS_Addict

I think its more about rpm than it is MPH isnt it?

Also, have been told and every engine I have had built I dont let it sit at the same RPM for more than a few minutes at a time. Also been told the heat cycle isnt needed but some people swear by it. lol

How about it.

1. Engine put in with new oil.
2. Start up.
3. Drive to destination without driving like a V-tech person and destroying it.
4. Change oil at 500 miles.
5. Drive it as you will.

Now, I had one guy who builds race engines tell me to drive it like I plan to drive it from the get go. Some people drive their cars like they are racing them the moment they get them.

Correct..

**Hot head** · 04-25-2011, 04:47 AM

Look I dont believe in heat cycles or any of that other bull. The main thing is that the pistons and everything in the engine are being grinded down for the first 500 miles to a point of perfection that humans can not re-create.

**jetaws6** · 04-25-2011, 05:02 AM

The best way to break it in and get the rings right is to accelerate and slow down as much as possible.

**Smittro** · 04-25-2011, 10:03 AM

Originally Posted by Smittro

You don't need all that "heat cycle" crap..
It's an all iron engine,, start it up let it achieve operation temp, check for leaks and drive it..
Just don't hammer on it and burn tires till you get @ least 500 miles on it or so..
Moderate repeated accelleration will help break it in..
Like I said just don't beat on it right away..
It may smoke a little here and there (blue oil smoke) till the rings seat in the bores aswell..
Sometimes new motors do that but it goes away pretty quickly as the engine breaks in..

Originally Posted by jetaws6

The best way to break it in and get the rings right is to accelerate and slow down as much as possible.