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Thread: Issue with car starting
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11-09-2017, 04:34 AM #1
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Light Pewter Metallic- y2k 8-cylinder catfish
Issue with car starting
Yesterday, I started the Camaro to let it run (which I do from time to time since I don't drive it much) and after running for 3- 5 mins, it suddenly shut off and will not start again. I'm getting a SES light and the engine tries to turn over, but nothing beyond that. I have a 12 disc changer in the car that I hear it shuffling discs, which leads me to think it's something electrical. It's not the battery, as the car tries to start though I did try jumping it with my other car to be sure.
Any ideas? Should I get my hands on a scanner to check for thrown codes to narrow down the exact problem? Thanks!
2000 Chevrolet Camaro Z28 A4 - Light Pewter Metallic
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11-09-2017, 01:19 PM #2
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2016 Camaro SS - Summit- 2001 Trans Am WS6 - NBM
I don't know... sounds to me like your fuel pump might have taken a dump. Do you hear it prime when you turn to the On position?
Check your fuses as well.
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2000 Arctic White SS #1667 - Sold
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11-09-2017, 01:33 PM #3
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11-09-2017, 01:46 PM #4
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2016 Camaro SS - Summit- 2001 Trans Am WS6 - NBM
Having it replaced by a mechanic? Pretty expensive. I'd be willing to bet $800- $1,000
If you do it yourself, Rock Auto has the pump assembly, with prices ranging from $100 - $300 depending on the brand.
I went middle of the road on mine (back when I had my 2000) and put another 100k on it with no issues.
The problem with doing it yourself is the labor it takes to drop the tank if you don't want to cut the hatch (I assume you don't want to cut on your Z).
If I remember correctly, you have to drop the exhaust and the rear end to get to the tank to drop it. Been a few years since I've done that replacement.
I would definitely rule out any possible easier, cheaper solutions first. Definitely see what code is being thrown.
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11-09-2017, 05:55 PM #5
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11-10-2017, 06:21 AM #6
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Pewter- 2002 Trans Am WS6 M6
If u replace it you can get a racetronix fuel pump for not that much more. Think mine was only couple hundred more to replace everything
Mods - Lid, Skip Shift Eliminator, MGW shifter, UMI SFCs, Founders Lower Control Arms, Founders Panhard Bar, Founders Adj. Torque Arm, UMI Torque arm mount, MWC Drive shaft safety loop, KONI Yellows, Strano Springs, Strano Sway bars, UMI Upper and lower A Arms, 160 thermostat, TSP headers and TSP true duals Monster stage 2 clutch, racetronix fuel pump, Strange S60 rear axle and tune by Frost.
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11-12-2017, 01:39 PM #7
I assume there is gas in the tank? Do you have a spare key you can try?
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11-12-2017, 02:37 PM #8
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11-12-2017, 02:38 PM #9
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11-13-2017, 05:30 AM #10
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2016 Camaro SS - Summit- 2001 Trans Am WS6 - NBM
It could be that your car isn't recognizing the chip in your key, and activating VATS security, which keeps your car from starting. If your spare key doesn't work either, and your security light isn't blinking, it should rule that out as the problem.
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11-15-2017, 04:29 AM #11
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11-16-2017, 06:50 AM #12
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Light Pewter Metallic- y2k 8-cylinder catfish
Keep in mind, the car suddenly shut off while it was running. Would a bad key chip cause that?
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11-16-2017, 09:38 AM #13
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2016 Camaro SS - Summit- 2001 Trans Am WS6 - NBM
I wouldn't think so. I've only had one negative interaction with GM's VATS system, and that was on a 98 GMC Jimmy. It would fluke and not recognize the key, and just flat out wouldn't start until the 15 minute lockout timed out...then you ran a 50/50 shot of it doing the same thing and waiting another 15 minutes. The Security light is usually blinking when VATS is triggered. Also, I don't believe you'd even get a click out of the motor, much less it trying to turn over, so I stick by my original theory of it being fuel starved. My guess is that once it warmed up, the pump got hot and gave out, hence why it died suddenly and wouldn't start back up. Still just a theory without actually being there to diagnose. Another test you could do is at the fuel rail on top of the engine. There is a Schrader valve on the front where you can purge or test fuel pressure. If you have or can obtain a fuel pressure gauge, you can test the pressure. Even if you don't, if you push the valve with the key On (have some shop rags ready so you don't coat your entire engine bay with fuel) and fuel does more of a dribble than a spray, you pretty much know the fault is in the pump. I don't remember the exact number, but I think you should have somewhere in the realm of 55-60lbs of pressure at the rail.
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11-17-2017, 03:04 AM #14
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01-27-2018, 09:19 AM #15
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Light Pewter Metallic- y2k 8-cylinder catfish
I finally got a scanner and scanned the codes. I got these two results.
Bad security chip in the key or something else ignition system related?
https://www.engine-codes.com/p1626_chevrolet.htmlLast edited by SiggyZ; 01-27-2018 at 09:22 AM.
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01-27-2018, 10:26 PM #16
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Triple White- 1998 Camaro SS convert
Correct me if I'm wrong, but doesn't the VATS control both the starter relay coil and the fuel enable circuit in the PCM. If the engine turns over, that would lead me to think the VATS is reading the key correctly and the signal from the BCM is not getting to the PCM to enable the fuel injectors. One thing that doesn't make sense though, the service manual states "if a condition with the circuit occurs after the engine is started and running the PCM will not disable the fuel injectors. The PCM will continue to enable the fuel injectors because a correct signal from the BCM was received by the PCM on startup" so that doesn't explain the engine dying.
Both the trouble codes listed have signal wires in the same connector at the PCM. Could there be a problem with corrosion in the connector or possibly a bad PCM?Last edited by PeterPar; 01-27-2018 at 10:28 PM.
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01-28-2018, 07:41 AM #17
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01-29-2018, 07:11 AM #18
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2016 Camaro SS - Summit- 2001 Trans Am WS6 - NBM
There are too many things these codes could be pointing to, since the VATS system really runs the gamut. Could be your key's chip, could be corrosion in the PCM, could be our absolutely terrible BCM (we had issues with the radio/driver window in our Trans Am related to bad solder in the BCM), or it could be something in the wiring between these units. I think your best bet is to have it taken in. At this point it could get pretty unnecessarily expensive and taxing to keep playing the guessing game.
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01-29-2018, 03:16 PM #19
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Light Pewter Metallic- y2k 8-cylinder catfish
Agreed and I intend to take it in to get it diagnosed and fixed. Any suggestions on a good shop? I have AAA and can have it towed. I've been told Whistler's Auto Repair in Glenpool is really good.
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01-30-2018, 02:56 AM #20
Did you try your spare key (if you have one)?
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