'01 SS - BLOWN ENGINE - Need Advice on a good Long Block..!!

**NastySS** · 06-26-2017, 10:06 AM

Hello All,

I have a 2001 Camaro SS with 26,600 original miles. I went to start it up last week, and it sounded like a Freight Train was under my hood. I never heard of anything like it. I immediately turned it off and looked under the Car. There was a stream of Oil running to the pavement. A bit later after I composed myself, I jacked it up and took a few pictures. There are 2 holes in the Block just forward of the Oil filter. In the the smaller hole above the larger one, you can see a piece of metal punching through. (I am unable to upload a picture, and have tried several ways. It is 2.45 MB. I got it reduced to 2.04 Mb and it still won't upload.)

I have never abused the car or taken it to a race track. This is my 5th car with a Chevy 350, and have never had an issue even close to this.

Well, I am looking to buy a Long Block, and am looking for some input on where to get one that is trustworthy. No doubt there are experts here who can save me a lot of research. Of course I tried Chevrolet, and they no longer have anything for this car, of the LS1 Aluminum Block/Heads flavor. I don't want to put in a Chevy Performance Cast Iron Block Engine. I would prefer it to be like it is now.

Promar in NJ has rebuilt Long Blocks on Ebay for about 3 grand (Free Shipping both ways although I doubt anyone would want my block to rebuild...!)) with a 3 year unlimited mileage warranty, but the BBB website has a bunch of complaints about them and their crappy service when something does go wrong with one of their Long Blocks.

Is there anyone out there who has GOOD rebuilt Long Blocks with a decent warranty? I did see a post from 2007 where someone had New Long Blocks for $3,600 and no Core wanted in return.

Any help with my little issue here would be greatly appreciated. Thanks so much for reading or helping. Tom.

**35th-ANV-SS** · 06-26-2017, 12:03 PM

I'm a little confused on how that happens out of nowhere.

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**pajeff02** · 06-26-2017, 05:30 PM

Pretty catastrophic failure. Sorry to hear.

I did some looking and nothing popped up for a direct LS1 replacement block. Most everything I found was 5.3 or 6.0.

**Whamhammer** · 06-26-2017, 06:51 PM

Originally Posted by NastySS

Hello All,

I have a 2001 Camaro SS with 26,600 original miles. I went to start it up last week, and it sounded like a Freight Train was under my hood. I never heard of anything like it. I immediately turned it off and looked under the Car. There was a stream of Oil running to the pavement. A bit later after I composed myself, I jacked it up and took a few pictures. There are 2 holes in the Block just forward of the Oil filter. In the the smaller hole above the larger one, you can see a piece of metal punching through. (I am unable to upload a picture, and have tried several ways. It is 2.45 MB. I got it reduced to 2.04 Mb and it still won't upload.)

I have never abused the car or taken it to a race track. This is my 5th car with a Chevy 350, and have never had an issue even close to this.

Well, I am looking to buy a Long Block, and am looking for some input on where to get one that is trustworthy. No doubt there are experts here who can save me a lot of research. Of course I tried Chevrolet, and they no longer have anything for this car, of the LS1 Aluminum Block/Heads flavor. I don't want to put in a Chevy Performance Cast Iron Block Engine. I would prefer it to be like it is now.

Promar in NJ has rebuilt Long Blocks on Ebay for about 3 grand (Free Shipping both ways although I doubt anyone would want my block to rebuild...!)) with a 3 year unlimited mileage warranty, but the BBB website has a bunch of complaints about them and their crappy service when something does go wrong with one of their Long Blocks.

Is there anyone out there who has GOOD rebuilt Long Blocks with a decent warranty? I did see a post from 2007 where someone had New Long Blocks for $3,600 and no Core wanted in return.

Any help with my little issue here would be greatly appreciated. Thanks so much for reading or helping. Tom.

Have you looked at Texas Speed yet? I know they sell short blocks for LS1's.

**NastySS** · 06-28-2017, 06:10 AM

Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS

I'm a little confused on how that happens out of nowhere.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

As am I....!!!!! I changed the oil about 2 weeks prior, and drove the car the day before with no issues. There had been a slight ticking sound, but I thought that was the typical "Piston Slap" these engines are well known for.

**NastySS** · 06-28-2017, 06:13 AM

Originally Posted by Whamhammer

Have you looked at Texas Speed yet? I know they sell short blocks for LS1's.

Thank you Whamhammer..! I will check them out. 69 people have read this Post, and you're the first one to give me a lead.

**Y2KArcticSS** · 06-28-2017, 10:46 AM

Also check out Turn Key Engine Supply, they have quite a bit to choose from in both crate and long block form.

**NastySS** · 06-30-2017, 08:47 AM

Originally Posted by Y2KArcticSS

Also check out Turn Key Engine Supply, they have quite a bit to choose from in both crate and long block form.

Thank you Y2K. They sure have a great selection on that site...!!!!

**cammed goat** · 07-11-2017, 04:38 PM

By any chance, did that car sit in a heavy rainstorm? I ask as there have been posts in the past about water pooling up on the intake manifold and some of the water leaks past the O-rings on the injectors. Difficult to start, but when it fires up...BOOM!! Engine throws a rod through the block. Keep us posted.

***SMWS6TA*** · 07-11-2017, 05:40 PM

You should not fear using a iron block. Hell I prefer them over aluminum. I also prefer the 6.0 liter blocks over the 5.3's.

Both can have your accessories, heads, intake etc over to each. Also Summit sells good bare blocks but you're still needing to build up from there.

If you're lucky you can try to source a LS6 from a wreaked C5 Vette or CTS-V But they want a pretty penny for them. For the cost of them I could build a 6.0L better.

With a LQ4 or 9 you would need very little tuning adjustments to the stock tune.

If you change your mind on iron blocks hit me up. I can give you the info on what to look for, etc...

**Y2KArcticSS** · 07-12-2017, 06:46 AM

Originally Posted by cammed goat

By any chance, did that car sit in a heavy rainstorm? I ask as there have been posts in the past about water pooling up on the intake manifold and some of the water leaks past the O-rings on the injectors. Difficult to start, but when it fires up...BOOM!! Engine throws a rod through the block. Keep us posted.

This happened to me, but I was lucky enough to catch it before it went full hydrolock. But before I figured it out, it bogged down like crazy in every rainstorm and every other time I washed the car. Scary. Changed out all of my injector O-Rings after I probably found the problem from a forum post on this site

, and was good from then on.

**NastySS** · 07-12-2017, 03:07 PM

Originally Posted by cammed goat

By any chance, did that car sit in a heavy rainstorm? I ask as there have been posts in the past about water pooling up on the intake manifold and some of the water leaks past the O-rings on the injectors. Difficult to start, but when it fires up...BOOM!! Engine throws a rod through the block. Keep us posted.

Thanks for your input CG. Actually, I drove the car the day before, and it drove just fine like it always did. There was no rain overnight either, but that is some good information for the memory banks. The car started up just as easily as it always did, but there was just that LARGE KABOOM as the ROD SLAMMED THROUGH THE BLOCK TWICE before I shut her down..

**NastySS** · 07-12-2017, 03:26 PM

Originally Posted by SMWS6TA

You should not fear using a iron block. Hell I prefer them over aluminum. I also prefer the 6.0 liter blocks over the 5.3's.

Both can have your accessories, heads, intake etc over to each. Also Summit sells good bare blocks but you're still needing to build up from there.

If you're lucky you can try to source a LS6 from a wreaked C5 Vette or CTS-V But they want a pretty penny for them. For the cost of them I could build a 6.0L better.

With a LQ4 or 9 you would need very little tuning adjustments to the stock tune.

If you change your mind on iron blocks hit me up. I can give you the info on what to look for, etc...

Thank you Scott. There is an outfit in an adjacent state (NJ) that sells rebuilt long blocks with a 3 year unlimited mileage warranty. Their price for the LS6 Long Block is the same as the LS1, $2999.00, and they have free shipping both ways. Of course I doubt they would want my engine back as a core, so that is $1,000 more if you have no Core. The LS6 has at least 100 more HP right? A friend on this site told me the two Long Blocks are the same externally and should be very easy to install, but I might run into some minor issues (Fuel Pump, Injectors, Tuning, etc.). Do you know if an LS6 long Block would cause me problems, or would I just get some insane Z06 HP? I already have an LS6 Intake, or so says my friend here. I am still trying to get my Ducks in a row and gather more info, so I've made no decisions yet. Good thing the SS was not my daily driver. I'd really like to know if I can make that LS6 LB work...!!! I imagine they would not give me a warranty if I bought an LS6 LB though.

**cammed goat** · 07-12-2017, 03:30 PM

From what I have been told, the LS6 will drop in no problem. I haven't heard any negatives with an LS6 with a factory fuel pump, but I could be wrong. 405HP stock is nice too.

***SMWS6TA*** · 07-13-2017, 05:53 AM

If a true LS6 it should have a slightly more aggressive cam over the LS1's. Not so much you need to go get a full tuning session. If you get a long block you should also get either 243 or 799 heads.

**NastySS** · 07-17-2017, 08:02 AM

Originally Posted by SMWS6TA

If a true LS6 it should have a slightly more aggressive cam over the LS1's. Not so much you need to go get a full tuning session. If you get a long block you should also get either 243 or 799 heads.

Thank you SMW. Please forgive me if I sound a little confused. A Long Block already had heads. So, their rebuilt LS6 Long Block will have the LS6 Z06 heads rebuilt as part of the package. Are the 243 or 799 heads the ones that Chevy put on the LS6 Engine to start, or are you saying I should remove the rebuilt LS6 heads and replace them? Also, I'm wondering if the Fuel Injectors for the LS1 would need to be upgraded for an LS6 long Block install. Thank you.

***SMWS6TA*** · 07-17-2017, 08:38 AM

Factory LS6's came with 243 heads at least the Vettes did, not sure about the CTS-V/GTO (04) LS6 engines. 799 heads are the same exact head just they were made at a different facility and the valves are not sodium filled.

You can reuse your injectors. If you are not around 450 HP motor you will not need to worry about the 28lb injectors your LS1 came with. You could look at getting them serviced and freshen up with new o rings and etc. It runs about $25 injector. Several places on the net and you may better in price if you find someone local. Marine service shops might do them in your area, I had mine done by one local.

All of your externals can be swapped over. Just make sure the oil pan is a f body oil pan. If it comes with a different one you can swap it and the oil pick up tube over as well. Make sure you clean the pick up tube very well.

**NastySS** · 07-17-2017, 09:04 AM

Originally Posted by SMWS6TA

Factory LS6's came with 243 heads at least the Vettes did, not sure about the CTS-V/GTO (04) LS6 engines. 799 heads are the same exact head just they were made at a different facility and the valves are not sodium filled.

You can reuse your injectors. If you are not around 450 HP motor you will not need to worry about the 28lb injectors your LS1 came with. You could look at getting them serviced and freshen up with new o rings and etc. It runs about $25 injector. Several places on the net and you may better in price if you find someone local. Marine service shops might do them in your area, I had mine done by one local.

All of your externals can be swapped over. Just make sure the oil pan is a f body oil pan. If it comes with a different one you can swap it and the oil pick up tube over as well. Make sure you clean the pick up tube very well.

Thank you again for your help...! You mean just reuse my current oil pan. These rebuilds don't come with an Oil Pan or Valve Covers, and I will ask about pick-up tube. Have you ever known anyone to put an LS6 in their Chevy or Pontiac LS1 Car?

***SMWS6TA*** · 07-17-2017, 09:15 AM

Know in person, no but it's a fairly common practice for those wanting to keep it relatively stock. The only real difference between the LS1 and LS6 is the block structure. GM made some internal structure changes to increase better oil flow. Your 01-02 LS1 most likely had a LS6 block with LS1 crank and 241 heads. Now in parts this is where it differs, the early LS1's had oil pump issues specifically the 97-98 yrs. So in 01 and 02 yrs the LS1 came with the LS6 oil pump as well as the intake.
Both have the same crank and pistons but the cam specs are slightly different.

Check your build sheet to know what your cam specs are.

If you ever wanted to give your car a little bump in power but still be daily friendly not is the time to throw in a 228 cam as well as a LS2 timing chain.

**Whamhammer** · 07-17-2017, 11:33 AM

Originally Posted by SMWS6TA

Factory LS6's came with 243 heads at least the Vettes did, not sure about the CTS-V/GTO (04) LS6 engines. 799 heads are the same exact head just they were made at a different facility and the valves are not sodium filled.

GTO's never had a LS6 engine option, just LS1/LS2.

The bare block was an LS6 (just like ending production F-cars and some late 'vetted) but not the heads and cam.