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Thread: Where to Start?????? Help!
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09-07-2007, 12:05 AM #1
Where to Start?????? Help!
Hey guys, newbie here with an untouched TA/ Seriously want to start doing some mods on the TA, I want some advice on what is most important first. Sub Frame connectors and strut tower braces to get my car stable, or go for the cat back exhaust and headers? Or any other ideas. Please help!!!
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09-07-2007, 12:14 AM #2
Cat back exhaust is quickest n cheapest...I love it loud so I went with the Loud Mouth 1 first.
To a Mustang, I'm a glue factory...
SLP LM1, Foose Nitrous II (f) 19x8, (r) 19x10, Nitto 555, SLP Lid, Smooth Bellow - Soon to add: Kook's LT & ORY
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09-07-2007, 12:22 AM #3
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Silver- 2002 Trans AM
If your car is a A4...get a 3600 stall ASAP!!!
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09-07-2007, 12:23 AM #4
such an open ended question, and not trying to be mean, but this qustion has been asked at least once a week here for 9 years now.
do some research on simular theads.
how much do you have to spend, what is your ultimate goal?
whats more important looks/sound?
or all out speed? both?
drag racing, street racing, road course?
way too many variables.
catback/headers/lid are the most common first mods.2002 WS6 aka "Mr.Brownstone"
My car is my heroin
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09-07-2007, 12:28 AM #5
Well to be honest I am a newbie, I have been wanting a TA for7 years and finally got one last year, all stock M6 with 5K miles, dont have much mechanical or performance knowledge, have been doing some reading to learn, little at a time, I wannt throw some where between 3K-5K for parts and install right know into it. Want some extra horse but dont want to get to crazy.... yet. Wanna keep a stock look, but want some extra speed,
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09-07-2007, 12:28 AM #6
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09-07-2007, 12:32 AM #7
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09-07-2007, 12:34 AM #8
Any recommendations as far as make and supplier (sponsor) for the stall n shift kit...gotta lid n bellows that'll be here on Monday. Thx for the info btw.
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09-07-2007, 01:06 AM #9
It's an M6 guys!
stall and shift kit would be for an automatic
thats a good amount of money to spend.
I would go with a nice set of headers, a mild cam, lid and tune.
and with paying a shop labor to install it all, you'll be in budget. maybe even a nitrous kit for a little extra kick here and there.
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09-07-2007, 06:55 AM #10
Thanks. Now I just got to find a good shop around here. I got the Lid on its way. Will do some pricing and see what else I can find for the other parts. I will probably get the SFC's first.
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09-07-2007, 07:02 AM #11
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[]D [] []V[] []D- 1999 trans am
start off with suspension mods... i wish i did... what good are go fast mods when you sit there spinning tire or lose a race cause you can't get traction...
go with lower control arm relocation brackets, adjustable lower controll arms, adjustable panhard, sub frame conectors (weld on), adjustable TQ arm, and maybe lowering springs...
that will get you off to a great start...
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09-07-2007, 07:08 AM #12
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it's important to know what engine mods you can do to get more power. Consider swapping a rebuilt fully customized honda B16 engine and get yourself a coffee-can exhaust, that should put you in the high HP/TQ range [i'm talking 200's here, brother, serious power!] after that, you'll need stickers and LOTS of em! the closer together and more of them you have is crucial, BUT DON'T OVER LAP THEM! that's a waste of power management. Finally go to the local public park and tack-weld a bench on top of your wing to increase the downforce on the front. Infact, tack-weld a bench on the front fenders and t-tops too, there's just never enough down force. Got it, homes?
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09-07-2007, 07:13 AM #13
First mod I did was changing out the muffler bearings, best thing I ever did
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09-07-2007, 07:15 AM #14
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09-07-2007, 07:32 AM #15
I agree, without knowing how you want to utilize the additional power. Suspension mods are great but unless you need them they will not improve your performance or gas mileage. I still have stock shocks on the rear of my car and don't have subframe connectors, yet my old LT1 can run 11s and still get the factory gas mileage ratings.
Basically you want to improve the airflow in and out, and make more effective use of the already good engine you have by installing a mild streetable cam.
If you go to the track a lot the rear end is a weak point, and a drive shaft loop is advisable regardless of your performance level. Drag radials will help with traction, and lightweight wheels and tires will reduce unsprung weight and improve general overall performace.
I would do these things before spending money stiffening up the car, adding weight, and creating a harsher ride.
Although large rims and short sidewall tires are the current trend, they will usually have a negative impact on straight line performace due to increased weight and lack of sidewall flex. However they will often slightly improve the cornering ability.2002 Street ET Champion New England Dragway
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09-07-2007, 09:51 AM #16
Probably the best shop in your area. Just ask Sarge
http://www.nelsonperformance.com/
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09-07-2007, 03:41 PM #17
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Didn't read through the responses...
Subframe connectors, lid, and a catback.
Skip the strut tower brace. The design of the F-Body doesn't allow them to help.
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09-07-2007, 05:10 PM #18
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09-07-2007, 07:51 PM #19
Yea thats a good start, but yea replacing blinker fluid helps, most pple dont know that you have to replace it after every 10,000 blinks and you loose hourspower. U need to get the piston return springs (the bigger the better) best to bore out the exhaust tips 30 over. (along with the "o" pipe duel exhaust gets you 100% back pressure) Diseal spark plugs are the best plugs you can get. The 710 cap gives the oil best pressure levels. The engine oil bypass kit gives you a lot more torque. Since its a M6 the heavy duty clutch belt would come very handy just like the stall converter and shift kit does to the automatic. After that you should have some high HP so the raditor insulator will save the car. Other then that make sure your tires have the right seasonal air you should be good to go
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09-07-2007, 11:03 PM #20
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