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04-21-2016, 01:55 PM #1
Stuck garden hose/spigot...any tips?
Seems like the best youtube has to offer is chopping up the hose and the piping... any other solutions to remove a hose that has calcified onto the spigot?
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04-21-2016, 02:12 PM #2
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2002 Z28 A4 NBM- Sadly now demodded :(
Hard water in Arizona is HARD! SRP says the water meets all Federal requirements but I wouldn't cook with it or drink it, wondered about brushing my teeth with it and showering in it left my skin dry. Lots of solids in that water.
I'd try one of the calcium removers like CLR...67 Camaro: K-K + 797-z (look it up), 454/Th400/4.10 12-bolt = 6mpg, PS/PDB/PW tilt, tach, gauges...
2005 Corvette LS2/M6 Magnetic Red Metallic (What else would it be?) w/ Cashmere interior
2002 Z28: NBM/Tan, MTI smooth lid, smooth bellows, !AIR, !cats, 1-3/4" QTP SS LT's, 2-1/2" TD's with X-pipe, MagnaFlows dumped at axle, custom welded SFC's, MidWest Chassis body mount adjustable T/A, 3400 stall, 3.23 gears (was 2.73). Tuned: 343rwhp/357rwt (before TD's). Best: 12.559 @ 108+, 1.73 60' @ 3500' DA w/MT ET Street DR's.
Carbon footprint? CLOWN SHOE!
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04-21-2016, 04:39 PM #3
My first instinct is apply fire, however you would end up burning up the seals in the spigot and ruining the bib. Can you remove the entire bib? If so I'd just dunk the entire assembly in a bucket of CLR or vinegar for a day or so and see if it fixes your problem. Otherwise just start applying CLR or vinegar to keep the connection wet (maybe even cover with a plastic bag to slow evaporation). After a day or so try to remove. One trick to stuck things like this is to try and tighten just a bit first then try to loosen. Counter intuitive I know, but sometimes it works.
ATI Procharger, SFCs, Y-pipe, LM2, BBK Shorty Headers, Corvette N73 Magnesium Wheels, 4th Circle Designs Stripe and Overlay kit
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04-22-2016, 05:01 AM #4
Stuck garden hose/spigot...any tips?
be a man and get ahold of the thing with good tools
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04-22-2016, 07:08 AM #5
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04-22-2016, 07:35 AM #6
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04-22-2016, 01:50 PM #7
So, I've tried spraying several applications of CLR, the wiping/scarping away the particulates, then reapplying, etc. Hasn't worked so far. I guess I have to go buy a monkey wrench... funny how you never need something till you need it.
I'm also keen to try soaking the end in some of CLR or Lime Away for a while.
Once I get it done, does it seem like anti-seize would be a possible solution to the hard water issue?Lid, Throttle Body, LS6 Intake, Heads, Cam, Magnaflow, LS7 Clutch, SFCs, STB, Panhard Bar, Strano Springs, Hollow Sway Bars, Poly/Roto LCAs, Konis, MGW Shifter
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04-22-2016, 02:12 PM #8
The anti-seize might help but I definitely wouldn't want to drink from that hose ever. You could just start a routine where you take off the hose every couple of months to prevent the build-up or you could attach a quick disconnect to the faucet and hose (cost a couple of bucks from any hardware store) and never have to worry about it again. Every hose and every hose accessory I have are fitted with the quick disconnects.
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04-24-2016, 07:38 PM #9
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red- 69 Firebird
Use a Dremel with a quick and easy removal cutting/grinding head. If you're very careful, you can do the same thing for "black threaded pipe".
Cut the outer pipe/fitting until it's cut close to the top of the inner thread. Do a few cuts like that. Then, use a screw-driver/vise-grips/etc to work/fatigue/break the outer pipe/fitting.
Surprisingly, once you get the hang of it, it's pretty quick and easy to remove a rusted pipe/fitting like that.
Not exactly what I was talking about. But,close enough.
Cutting Rusted Hardware: Dremel Rotary Tool
Good Luck!Last edited by NE-Firebird; 04-24-2016 at 07:48 PM.
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04-25-2016, 11:51 AM #10
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Navy Blue Metallic- 98 T/A w/ mods, 00 FBVert
^^ You can do the same thing to bolts and lugs too...
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04-25-2016, 12:01 PM #11
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Arctic White, red/gray- 1997 Corvette, 92 Typhoon
Angle grinder and a cutoff wheel is one of my favorite tools.
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04-25-2016, 06:03 PM #12
I wouldn't say it's my favorite.....if I have that out then I'm probably fighting something or pissed off at something. I do spend some time with mine though fairly regularly. Wonder if they make wood blades for them? I could probably then just sell my sawzall.
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04-25-2016, 08:34 PM #13
Go get a 20 inch long channel lock pliers and grow a set.
this post is meant as a joke and in no way should it be interpreted as a serious or meaningful reply. The author of this post cannot be held liable for any damages, both emotional and physical, that may be incurred from the reading of this post. By acknowledging this disclaimer you hereby release the author from any and all liability
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04-25-2016, 08:36 PM #14
Problems like this are required to be solved by one of two methods: the overapplication of physical brute force, or the liberal application of explosives
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04-25-2016, 10:04 PM #15
yep....just have to stop pussy footing it and go in with the attitude it's coming off one way or the other. It can come off in one piece or several pieces but it's coming off.
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04-26-2016, 05:24 AM #16
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Arctic White, red/gray- 1997 Corvette, 92 Typhoon
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04-26-2016, 07:36 AM #17
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04-26-2016, 08:41 AM #18
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Arctic White, red/gray- 1997 Corvette, 92 Typhoon
I went over to my neighbors garage one weekend where he was attempting to change a lot of the suspension on his Jeep Cherokee. He couldn't get the top shock bolts off on the rear shocks. I said why are you being so gentle, he didn't want to break the bolts apparently. So I broke 3 of the 4 and just retapped them. Sometimes stuff has to break.
Last edited by Zinergy; 04-26-2016 at 08:46 AM.
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04-26-2016, 10:28 AM #19
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Black / White- '00 T/A M6/'19 Hemi Truck
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97 Camaro - Sold
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04-26-2016, 07:55 PM #20
He'll spend more time trying to get it apart intact than just breaking the damn thing off and replacing whatever breaks.
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