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Thread: Need Advice...
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10-22-2006, 09:39 PM #1DisCreteGuest
Need Advice...
I'm looking to plan my car project... I'll admit I'm not really a gear head... but love cars as much as everyone else here.
What I want:
Estimated: 1220 rwhp
Estimated race weight: 4500lbs
Estimated ET: 9.0s + or -
Here is the kit I'm lookin at for my car...
http://www.turbochargedpower.com/Imp...SS%2094-96.htm
Looking at the Stage III kit.
Currently my car is all stock except exhaust.... I plan to do the work systematically, and I wanted to start off from the rear of the car and moving my way forward.
I need to find:
Gear 3.73
Built Rear Axle
Rear end
Transmission
Drive Shaft
Suspension
Engine (rebuilt or swap?) 350 LT1 currently
Anything else I have forgotten, or didn't mention
Now, I have read that superchargers and turbos can be tuned down... superchargers by replacing the pulleys, but I am unsure about turbo's I realize they come with adjustable boost guages... Manual Boost Controls or Electronic Boost Controls... My question is... with this stage III turbo kit... would it be possible to tune the turbos down from 1220 rwhp to 650 rwhp, and when I hit the tracks turn them up to 1220rwhp and so forthe?
Would appreciate help from the gear heads, to refer me to websites or shops... which can answer my questions.
Thanks
-DisCrete
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10-22-2006, 10:13 PM #2
adjustable boost gauges? they all adjust to whatever boost your turbo/ S/C is pushing, IMHO I think you better get to know cars and research everything a little better before you attempt something like this.What kind of experience do you have doing this kind of stuff? or do you plan to pay a speedshop/mech. do install/tune this for you?
2006 impulse blue G.T.O
Iron Block 408
Cam
Pacesetter ceramic coated L.T.s
LMII exhaust
K&N CAI
Ported TB
Custom Tune
FAST 90
ZEX 125hp wet shot
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10-23-2006, 02:06 AM #3
I think that your car is going to go through about $70,000+ of modifications to get 1220 rwhp, and be safe/reliable. As far as your boost level goes, I do know that there are adjustable boost level switches (which control your wastegate I believe, someone correct me if I'm wrong) that could detune it to a certain extent. The biggest concern I'd have would be the chassis. I'm not sure of your knowledge level, but I wouldn't feel comfortable doing the chassis work to ensure as much safety as possible to support 1300+ horsepower.
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10-23-2006, 02:55 AM #4
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Well your gonna kill yourself. I have countless hours behind the wheel on the track before I even touched a 10 sec car....much less a car you describe...behind the wheel of a 7 second altered becomes a totally different skill/experiance than a 8 second Fbody....that is totally different than a 10 or 11 second street legal monster.....in other words...you dont just jump in and hit it.....you need a good experinace mentor ...NHRA liscense.....and lots of track time before you should even consider a car like this....
Get a NHRA rule book...a car like that will have tons of modifications required on the chassis/brakes/driveline/cages etc. that must be planned for....but first you must learn to drive a car like that....it aint easy....This is my signature. It is mine. Nobody else has one like it.
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10-23-2006, 02:21 PM #5
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10-23-2006, 02:23 PM #6DisCreteGuest
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10-23-2006, 02:24 PM #7DisCreteGuest
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10-23-2006, 02:30 PM #8DisCreteGuest
That is also the point of the thread, research purposes... which is why I'm asking for... shop names... mechanics... etc.. that I can talk to in order to make an itemized list of what needs to be done... before I even start on it.
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10-23-2006, 02:37 PM #9DisCreteGuest
Sarge, I realize snowmobiling has little to do with drag racing, but I'm confident in my ability... especially after I learn the car as you suggest, but I used to snowmobile for the better part of 20 years... and if I can take 90 degree turns at 50mph on a 500lbs sled at 2 feet off the ground (and not hit a tree)... not to mention countless times cruising on harsh terrain at over 100+mph. I think I can handle a strait line on level ground... But, I do intend to practice alot, and do what needs to be done, as you suggested.
I just want to put together an itemized list of everything I will need to accomoplish my goal.
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10-23-2006, 02:39 PM #10DisCreteGuest
My target top speed after 1/4 mile is 152mph
that will put me in the 8.9x - 9.0x range
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10-23-2006, 07:54 PM #11
How much money are you planing on puttin in this bad jackson? Have you ever been down a 1/4 mile track? Snowmobiling i dont think applies here, but maybe you can see it as it does. In no way am i shooting you down on this, i just dont think your being practical.
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10-24-2006, 01:49 AM #12
the money level raises exponentially the higher that you go. So it may only cost 15-20k to get 600rwhp........., but to build something that will take the beating of 1200+rwhp is going to cost you a lot more than you think.....ie, titanium is more expensive than forged steel, which is more expensive than steel. This will be expensive
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10-24-2006, 10:06 AM #13DisCreteGuest
Arguably, no I haven't been down a 1/4 mile, but have been in several street races, against few friends of mine who race auto-cross... granted big difference between that and a strip... but, I'm used to harsh turning conditions... When I refered to snowmobiling... the turns I used to make as I described... is not as simple as sitting on the sled and turning...
To describe what I had to do to keep the sled from flipping... Making a right turn for example at 40-50mph nearly a 90 degree turn... involves tremendous weight distrobution on the inside of the turn... in addition to apex'ing... worrying about trees.. and head on collisions with other sleds.
I had to place my foot on the right runner of the sled, and take my left foot off the left runner, and push with my knee on the seat on the inside of the sled... then let go with my left hand and grip with my hand inverted on the steering... while holding control with my right hand... so I shifted my weight about 2-3 feet to the right of the center of gravity of the sled in order to pull these turns off... essentially it's like an inclined turn at nascar... much like nascar, you deaccelerate into a turn and accelerate out of the turn... this provides maxium traction it's no different with a snowmobile...I was riding on the inside edge of the front right ski, and the inside edge of the track. Essentially, I just about tipped the sled to the right to account for the turn. I'm no small guy either, 240lbs, so I had enough control and weight to do so... but someone who was lighter weight than me... would have flipped the sled, simply because he would not have enough weight to keep the inside edge of the sled. (P.S. It helps to use 192+ studs on the track, and 9" carbides instead of the standard 6" on the ski's too lol)
I'm looking for about $30,000-$35,000 to spend on this... I realize the engine is going to take the most modification... which is why I'm wondering... "Rebuild/bore" or "Swap"Last edited by DisCrete; 10-24-2006 at 10:14 AM.
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10-24-2006, 10:18 AM #14DisCreteGuest
Have to understand too.. I didn't snowmobile for recreation per say... when I went snowmobiling it was 10-12 hours strait... non-stop. (outside of the occassional bar or 4... lol)
In fact in one day... I put the most miles than I ever have before.. 525 miles in 11 hours
That's an avg speed of 47mph.
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10-24-2006, 01:31 PM #15
This isn't too much different to a motorcycle in perspective. You sure as hell dont wanna jump on a 1400cc Harley to learn and a 9 second car should definitly not be your first experience at a drag strip.
Listen to Sarge, He knows this stuff better than most people here. I remember reading somthing a few weeks back.
Member #1: Have you ever worked on a car before?
Sarge: No, but I do subscribe to Car and Driver.
Member #2: Bullshit Sarge, I have seen your garage, You wipe your ass with Car and Driver.
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10-24-2006, 01:43 PM #16
- Join Date
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- 18,128
- Retired Outlaw Sum Bitch
I'm trying to help you do just that!
I'll state again for the record....go get a NHRA Rule Book!
There are many classes with very defined rules of construction on any car in that class....your putting the cart before the horse.....you go drop $35K and find out you built it out of NHRA specs and cannot run the damn thing on any NHRA sanctioned track your gonna be pissed....run it in competition and they tear that motor down and find out your running turned valves and your ass is blackballed....shit like that...
Step 1 is not to get a parts list to make a car go XX seconds.
Step 1 is what exactly are we doing with this car? Running it in what class?
The NHRA Rule Book will help you get started on your parts list and save you a boatload of time and money friend.
The numbers your talking about will put you in Comp Eliminator A/D......
so you need to check out the build specs required for that class....
I'm a pussy....I'm in SS/H class....
Here ...may be of some help man.... http://www.nhra.com/index.asp
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