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  1. #1
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    just bought a 2000 corvette

    hi yall

    i couldnt resit the price a got myself a c5 this week. the original plan was to put an eaton/whipple charger on it, but it seem i got the wrong car, they wont fit under the hood. a new hood will set me back $3000 painted over here, so its a no go. but maybe im wrong. any thoughts?

    so im stuck with "conventional" tuning or a centrifugal. i figure a head, cam, rockers, headers and exhaust package will be around $4000 and might even be $5000 shipped. it been 30 years since i was into an american engine (1978 poncho 400), so id have to farm out some of the work. but what gains can i expect, keeping the ls1 emission legal and streetable? i jus saw a "kit" promissing 75-85 hp, thats not great at all.

    on the othe hand, a centrifugal kit i can do myself and i probably can get it for $6000-7000 shipped. maybe for a lot less if i can get it without the nowadays usual air/air inter coolers, boost-a-pumps and contoller gismos. but i never had a centrifugal before, so the question is: where will boost come it on a 7-8 psi system? at 3000 rpm i gues. is that right? there is very little info on the procharger/vortech/paxton sites, no compressor maps, no dimensions of the units, no dyno/boost charts of specific engines. i wonder why not. none ot them answered my mails so far.

    any advice will be much appreciated. here are few specific questions:

    1) im planning to use either hptuners of efilive. which one shoud i get? i see efilive can handle external inputs, but what good does that do?

    2) what is the quietest centifugal blower out there, for street use? paxton i believe?

    3) does the ls1 engine management use closed wideband loop at wot or open loop?

    4) how come the engine seems to be pulling air from a closed compartment? or am i missing something?

    regards

    roman
    Last edited by dian; 11-08-2014 at 09:20 AM.

  2. #2
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    another thing i wonder about: the owners manual says to use 91 octane ron fuel. regular here is 95 ron and i can get 100 and 102 ron premium. that would give me the possibility to advance timing by 5-10°. is the ls1 engine sensitive to timing? would i see any difference in power?

    anyway, so today i installed an experimental "cold air intake":

    sorry, apparently im not allowed to post pictures. what can i do about it?

    (i have a 100 mm elbow from the throtlebody going down to the maf behind the radiator and a 90 mm duct to and 125 mm addapter with a mesh screen attached to the roll bar.)

    the 90 mm duct from the maf is attached to a 125 mm addapter, so the mesh is no restriction at all. i made two passes and the car pulls a max. of 0.35 g in second gear. exactly like with the stock intake. there might be some small gains on the top end, but there was to much traffic to find out. so am i going to get some "cold air intake" for up to $1000? definitely not. 18-38 hp gain? thats whishfull thinking.
    Last edited by dian; 11-09-2014 at 11:11 AM.

  3. #3
    11 years of bangin gears cammed goat's Avatar
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    2004 GTO M6

    Look up Mangacharger. Same roots design but in a smaller package. Very popular with the LSx crowd. You could even look into polyurethane engine and trans mounts that are shorter in height to allow clearance between the hood and blower. Others will chime in to assist.

  4. #4
    Veteran pajeff02's Avatar
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    '02 WS.6 / '07 Suburban

    Congrats and welcome to the site! Answering some of your questions --

    1) im planning to use either hptuners of efilive. which one shoud i get? i see efilive can handle external inputs, but what good does that do?

    I use HP Tuners Pro -- it also handles external inputs and you can user define and log them. They have an excellent website and forum for answering questions. I have no experience with EFI Live.

    2) what is the quietest centifugal blower out there, for street use? paxton i believe?

    Procharger seems to be the preferred option with our membership.

    3) does the ls1 engine management use closed wideband loop at wot or open loop?

    At WOT I believe it "ignores" the sensor feedback and runs strictly off the tables -- so that is equivalent to open loop.

    4) how come the engine seems to be pulling air from a closed compartment? or am i missing something?

    I am not familiar with the intake ducting... but if you go forced induction you'll be yanking all that stuff off the car anyway.

  5. #5
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    hi

    im still trying to figure out how to post pics here. seems cant contact admid. what to do?

  6. #6
    11 years of bangin gears cammed goat's Avatar
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    I believe you need 10 posts in order to post pictures. I could be wrong.

  7. #7
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    o.k., i will be working on it.

  8. #8
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    so i made it. (dont hate me.)

    i stiil wonder what you guys think about my "ram air":





    this cant be much worse than vararam and the like, but no gain?

  9. #9
    11 years of bangin gears cammed goat's Avatar
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    In my opinion, a Vararam would be a better setup as it draws cool air throught the air ducts in the front bumper, over the radiator and into the throttlebody. The setup you currnetly have has too many ripples and sits too close to the pulley. Unless you want to fab up a similar setup from aluminum tubing, but would require welding. And I am sure that tubing you are using is feeling the engine heat as well.

  10. #10
    Veteran pajeff02's Avatar
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    You get a for ingenuity on this one. But I have to agree -- it's a Corvette. Order an aftermarket setup and be done with it.

  11. #11
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    well, if this doesnt work, how is any filtered system going to work? im getting some "ram air" too. maybe engine is to rich with this and would need a tune?

  12. #12
    Veteran pajeff02's Avatar
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    The Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF) which is installed at the bottom of the silver tube measures incoming airflow and the PCM adjusts fueling accordingly. It is a bit more complicated than this in reality, but that is an easy way to explain it. If there is too much air coming into the engine then it is lean... not rich. Usually, this only occurs if the MAF has been messed with, it is improperly positioned, or if there is an air leak behind the MAF that allows unmetered air into the engine.

    Honest answer, the difference in power isn't anything you are going to feel in the seat of you pants. Removing the stock airbox and helmholtz resonators will simply make the underhood noise of air coming into the engine louder, which people often equate to "more power". Again, you get points for ingenuity on this one, but an aftermarket setup is a better option imo.

  13. #13
    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    is that seriously a kitchen strainer duct taped to the bottom and a dryer vent used up top? What's the green cord for? Dude.......just drop the coin and do it right. That makes it look like you're from Switzerland, Alabama.

  14. #14
    Senior Member theorangeguy's Avatar
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    Hahaha! Best post I've seen in a while...you certainly get an A+ for creativity!
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  15. #15
    Senior Member kingls1's Avatar
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    I would look into something other than the Vararam as I just installed one on a friends Vette and it's about the same quality as the pictures above.
    You also posted you were thinking of a supercharger and was concerned about hood clearance and didn't want to invest in a new hood. Well happy to tell you there are other options

  16. #16
    She Moderator KahanaReef's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 0rion View Post
    is that seriously a kitchen strainer duct taped to the bottom and a dryer vent used up top?
    That was my question but you asked it first

  17. #17
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    thats exactly what it is. 400 mm of straight tube before maf, works well. no wierd behaviour i mean.

    i have heard (=read), that with the cai you get positive fuel trims in closed loop, which then are transrefer to wot operation, making the engine (tuned rich in the first place) run like a pig. well, somehow i reckon that is b.s. i just got back making 3 passes in second gear with the ait sensor tweaked. i adjusted it on the fly at wot from 3500 ohms to 700 ohms (seems to be around 70°c from 10°c ambient). so if taking out 15% of fuel doesnt feel like anything, i believe no tuning will help. (maybe im missing something. any thoughts?)

    so im done with cold intakes for now. i know all vendors are going to hate me. but i just believe in facts. no noticable increase in noise from this experimental setup btw.

    waiting for centri kit and tuning software now. no more tinkering.

  18. #18
    Veteran pajeff02's Avatar
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    I don't recommend messing with the IAT sensor -- they are pretty accurate from the factory and the PCM needs to know the density of the air charge, through both mass and temperature, to calculate fueling. Fooling engine sensor data is what some chip and MAF manufacturers do in an attempt to intentionally alter fueling and thereby make more power (supposedly).

  19. #19
    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    maybe go with a larger mesh on the kitchen strainer??



    Like Jeff was eluding too......you're not "tuning" by playing with the MAF.

  20. #20
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    strainer is 130 mm, so no restriction i reckon. how was i playing with the maf? i was playing with the iat sensor.

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