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  1. #1
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    1998 Trans Am WS6

    Nitrous and Forced Induction?

    Anyone ever heard of N2O and Forced Induction before? Just something that I was day dreaming about I have never seen anything like it. But I was wondering if it could work, would it be worth it, How much of a pain would it be?

  2. #2
    Senior Member bluehawk2000's Avatar
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    midnight blue
    2000 trans am

    I have seen plenty of applications use both if that's what you are referring to, there was a pinks episode of a stingray vette that was running meth supercharged and on a 3 stage direct nitrous set up.

  3. #3
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    69 hugger orange
    98 z28

    yes it has been done many times and if done right works really well


    a small shot on top of the boost does major things like cool the air for one,help turbos spool and just makes more power

  4. #4
    I don't sell out! blackSS01's Avatar
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    2001 Camaro SS M6

    Seen one car do it in real life and it blew the shit outta the motor. It was a Ford Cobra though

    Not Termi, 90's year
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  5. #5
    Junior Member lightning Jeff's Avatar
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    68 fast back,02 ls1

    I ran that set up on my Lightining. It was a small wet shot.

  6. #6
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    1998 Trans Am WS6

    Awesome! especially the part about the slowstang! What would be some of the supporting mods? I think that I would like to do this with my T/A. But one of the requirements is that it would have to be dependable. I dont use it as a DD but I do get a wild hair sometimes and drive it for a week.

  7. #7
    Veteran 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    02 35th LE Camaro SS

    Really no sense of setting up both if this is a street car.

    You can easily reach your goals and beyond with just FI.

  8. #8
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  9. #9
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    red
    2000 firehawk

    My brother did it on his grand national with 18lbs. of boost and a 100 shot. Worked great just had to tighten up spark plug gap a little.

  10. #10
    None Shall Pass Knight's Avatar
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    99 WS.6 - Modified

    Quote Originally Posted by cavscout07 View Post
    Awesome! especially the part about the slowstang! What would be some of the supporting mods? I think that I would like to do this with my T/A. But one of the requirements is that it would have to be dependable. I dont use it as a DD but I do get a wild hair sometimes and drive it for a week.
    What mods do you have now? If stock, I would highly suggest building up your drivetrain and suspension first to handle the extra power. Otherwise, you'll spend lot of time and money fixing broken parts.

  11. #11
    Member parnelligq's Avatar
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    black99, silverY2K
    1999 z28 & Y2K z28

    I have herd that it has been done but never seen a working setup. A small shot with FI just might be a good thing for reasons stated by "dpinson".
    I would think that your motor would need a really low static compression Like 7:1. Your also going to spend alot of time tuning. If you decide to go for it, ya gotta post the build and results. So we can all hop on.
    I have the juice but want to switch to twin turbos. I figured I would just leave the NX on so I would not have to plug or replace anything. Pulling and filing bottles is a hassle and expensive. It gets old fast.

  12. #12
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    Yeah im going to do it! Go Big or go home right! Right now I am getting ideas build wont start till prolly the bottom of this year. I have obligations to our great nation first. As you all can tell I have a 98 ws6. This is my dream car. I had a prototype toy model about 15 years ago and I said to myself "self! your going to get that car one day!" and I did. Ok next question would be should I get a D-1sc or a f1r procharger. I plan later to change my block to lsx 454. I would like to get the f1r to put on the lsx but will it work safely on an ls1? Also with the lsx i will hopefully go 1k + hp. Besides sfc's what should I do to the frame. Roll cage? if so what kind? I am flirting with a dana 60 rear and its blowing kisses back. lol.

  13. #13
    Veteran 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by parnelligq View Post
    I have herd that it has been done but never seen a working setup.
    Pretty sure Ed who posted in this very thread is blown and sprayed

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by cavscout07 View Post
    Yeah im going to do it! Go Big or go home right! Right now I am getting ideas build wont start till prolly the bottom of this year. I have obligations to our great nation first. As you all can tell I have a 98 ws6. This is my dream car. I had a prototype toy model about 15 years ago and I said to myself "self! your going to get that car one day!" and I did. Ok next question would be should I get a D-1sc or a f1r procharger. I plan later to change my block to lsx 454. I would like to get the f1r to put on the lsx but will it work safely on an ls1? Also with the lsx i will hopefully go 1k + hp. Besides sfc's what should I do to the frame. Roll cage? if so what kind? I am flirting with a dana 60 rear and its blowing kisses back. lol.
    F1R is a whole lotta blower...you will disintegrate a stock LS1 with that on your first pass and it takes a good bit of power to spin it. If you built and forged an LS1 that may be a different story, but there's no sense in doing that to upgrade to an LSX block. You don't need that much blower on stock cubes to get good power, IMO. With such a radical jump in displacement I would think the most cost-effective option would be to enjoy your car now and plan to run an F1 on the additional displacement down the road if you're set on 1000+rwhp.

    If money is no object, plenty have made 700+rwhp on a D1 setup and stockish cubes.

    As far as suspension goes, SFCs, lower control arms and relocation brackets, an aftermarket torque arm and improved shocks can all help.

    I'm sure others will chime in, but that's my humble perspective.
    Nick

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  15. #15
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    Kool thanks GTP! I really want to go the 454 route with an f1 so yeah Ill prolly do that later. Now for the ls1 I would like to go D1sc but I have about 160k on the motor. Should I go ahead and rebuild and then sc or can i on the old stock internals?

  16. #16
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    As far as suspension goes, SFCs, lower control arms and relocation brackets, an aftermarket torque arm and improved shocks can all help.


    will this handle 1k hp plus with some drags and not twist up like a bubble gum wrapper?

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by cavscout07 View Post
    As far as suspension goes, SFCs, lower control arms and relocation brackets, an aftermarket torque arm and improved shocks can all help.


    will this handle 1k hp plus with some drags and not twist up like a bubble gum wrapper?
    I can't speak from experience to that kind of power level, but I would think a nice roll-cage will stiffen things up enough to take care of any twisting concerns.

    I don't have a cage myself, but I'm at almost half that kind of power and couldn't imagine not having one at over 1,000hp, so I would think you'd be doing that anyway.

  18. #18
    ;) Packy's Avatar
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    Black/Screaming Yellow
    99 S/C TA WS6 & 04 Cobra

    Quote Originally Posted by cavscout07 View Post
    As far as suspension goes, SFCs, lower control arms and relocation brackets, an aftermarket torque arm and improved shocks can all help.


    will this handle 1k hp plus with some drags and not twist up like a bubble gum wrapper?

    You will need to put at least a six point roll bar or 8 point in it if you plan on running that much power. Also your F-1 idea is good but I would look at smaller engines from the 347-390ci range. Reason being is that with the bigger bored and stroker motors the piston sleeves are sometimes thinner and rod angles get to be a bit extreme. FI + N2O will really push something like that to the edge. If I were you first I would choose one or the otherbetween FI or N2O. Then if you are going FI choose a smaller forged motor build and go with an F-1 and an SDCE or Aster bracket to push 15-20 psi through it. If you are going N2O then go bigger cubes and direct port it in order to maximize your systems potential. You said dependability was a key factor so you will need to decide your fate with this one. I can see an LSX big bore motor with a FI and N2O not being very dependable at all. On the other hand a there are many forged 347-390ci motors with FI making 650-1000rwhp range that are very dependable and drive to and from the track or on cruise nights around town for local street action.

  19. #19
    Member parnelligq's Avatar
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    black99, silverY2K
    1999 z28 & Y2K z28

    "Packy"is right. Some sort of cage and sub frame connectors will be a must. I have half the power and use SFC & a 8pnt. The LSX would more dependable if you opted for A 427 instead of the 454.

  20. #20
    ;) Packy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by parnelligq View Post
    "Packy"is right. Some sort of cage and sub frame connectors will be a must. I have half the power and use SFC & a 8pnt. The LSX would more dependable if you opted for A 427 instead of the 454.
    The beauty of boost is you make up for your displacement or lack thereof by just adding more. I say go under 400ci if you wanna boost a lot. The journal overlap and its correlation to the crank and piston heights along with loading is what makes the bigger motors not as reliable when it comes to big boost set-ups for the street. I am not saying big ci and boost doesn't work but if you want the dependability factor to be higher go with less ci. Trust me it will save you in the longrun.
    Last edited by Packy; 03-27-2011 at 09:42 AM.

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