How much psi on stock ls1?

[clg82]

Hey guys well I'm ready to start upgrading my car again. I am looking into purchasing a Procharger, and upgrading the rear end first. But my question is first does the procharger kit come with everything? (fuel injectors, intercooler etc etc) and also do I have to run LT headers with a procharger? I live in California where the emissions are a bitch.....any info would be greatly appreciated!

[devildogws6]

No you shouldnt have to run lt's since its all belt driven, granted you will not see as much in power gains, but you also could get a catted Y pipe, and im pretty sure you can get a procharger kit that has everything in it dont hold me to that i havnt reasearched all that much, but 5-8psi is all i would push on a stock ls1

[Knight]

Procharger kit - depends on who you order from - some places sell kits with everything, some do not.
L/Ts - as said, since you'll be forcing more air into the motor - if you restrict the exhaust, you'll see less performance gains as opposed to having L/Ts. But you can do it, nonetheless. I'd also look into a tune too.

And upgrading the rear is a very good idea - as you stated.

[rajiv1998]

Procharger kit - depends on who you order from - some places sell kits with everything, some do not.
L/Ts - as said, since you'll be forcing more air into the motor - if you restrict the exhaust, you'll see less performance gains as opposed to having L/Ts. But you can do it, nonetheless. I'd also look into a tune too.

And upgrading the rear is a very good idea - as you stated.

I wouldnt run more than 6-7 psi.

[FasstChevys]

8 psi - no worries

[See Me In My GTP]

8 psi - no worries

I will second that...a good tune means everything in this case when taking into account reliability on stock internals.

If you're pushing the timing and A/F too far you risk internal damage, but 8psi is definitely doable on stock internals. This doesn't mean there won't be some additional wear and tear compared to a stock motor, just that it's not mandatory to upgrade everything at this stage.

Plenty have gone tens of thousands of miles with this setup.

[LSXZ28]

8#... and I would recommend a meth kit!

[35th-ANV-SS]

http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread...ght=procharger

[rajiv1998]

8 psi - no worries

To each his own I guess. It has been done numerous amount of times with no problems, and a few times with problems. Personally I wouldnt run 8lbs on a stock block. LS1's are not the greatest for boost. I would spend a little extra $ and forge the bottom. It would suck to be afraid to turn up the boost once everything is done because youare afraid of blowing your motor. It would also suck to take it apart again once you have everything buttoned up.

[35th-ANV-SS]

I would not consider 3-4K on building the bottom end as a "little" extra money.

[rajiv1998]

I would not consider 3-4K on building the bottom end as a "little" extra money.

I can see where your getting that. But consider:

Procharger- $6000
Rear end- $2500
Clutch- $500
Suspension parts- $2000 (give or take)

Add all tht up and its about and its about 11-12k which is about 1/10 of what everthing else will cost, IF ITS A STOCK CAR AND HE WANTS TO DO IT RITE. Point is, forced induction is not cheap.

[35th-ANV-SS]

I totally understand and agree which is why I stated what I did. Once my car has a Procharger on it, I'll be at around 23-25K total invested.

You forgot the trans

[Frost]

I can see where your getting that. But consider:

Procharger- $6000
Rear end- $2500
Clutch- $500
Suspension parts- $2000 (give or take)

Add all tht up and its about and its about 11-12k which is about 1/10 of what everthing else will cost, IF ITS A STOCK CAR AND HE WANTS TO DO IT RITE. Point is, forced induction is not cheap.

You are a fear mongerer.... I have more 60 local cars that are boosted on stock bottom ends. I haven't had one that I tuned tat has come apart early either. There are the guys that folks like you say "aren't doing it rite" but have been making 550-650rwhp on their stock motors for the last 4-5 years now. He's not gonna make anywhere near that much without long tubes and a cam, so he's nowhere near the imminent danger you are talking about. I would forge a bottom end if I planned on running about 625rwhp or more consistently. When guys don't track race, 10 bolts live. I kept my 10 ten bolt with 315 drag radials and full suspension for 3 years at over 700rwhp on a more-than-full weight car. It wasn't even hurt when I finally DID remove it and replace it with something beefier.

[rajiv1998]

You are a fear mongerer.... I have more 60 local cars that are boosted on stock bottom ends. I haven't had one that I tuned tat has come apart early either. There are the guys that folks like you say "aren't doing it rite" but have been making 550-650rwhp on their stock motors for the last 4-5 years now. He's not gonna make anywhere near that much without long tubes and a cam, so he's nowhere near the imminent danger you are talking about. I would forge a bottom end if I planned on running about 625rwhp or more consistently. When guys don't track race, 10 bolts live. I kept my 10 ten bolt with 315 drag radials and full suspension for 3 years at over 700rwhp on a more-than-full weight car. It wasn't even hurt when I finally DID remove it and replace it with something beefier.

I never said it couldnt be done, I just said I would play it safe and forge it when I am investing that kind of money into my car. I also never mentioned anything about your tuning capabilities, everyone knows the kind of work you do. And we all know that performance parts dont mean shit when you want to sell your car, so if there is already so much done to it, an extra couple thousand wont hurt. As far as the rear goes, it is advisable to get a new one. Mine never broke and I beat the hell out of mine but I knew I was on borrowed time and I use to think twice before launching or doing burnouts on the street. Others have blown out with just stock power rolling into gear off idle.

I was just giving my advice, but its his car and he can do what he wants. I guess im the guy who would be "Better safe than sorry".

[Ed Blown Vert]

I ran 8# with a shot of Nitrous for a long time. Till I got greedy.

I always ran it a bit rich, which I think it lasted so long.

[Frost]

I never said it couldnt be done, I just said I would play it safe and forge it when I am investing that kind of money into my car. I also never mentioned anything about your tuning capabilities, everyone knows the kind of work you do. And we all know that performance parts dont mean shit when you want to sell your car, so if there is already so much done to it, an extra couple thousand wont hurt. As far as the rear goes, it is advisable to get a new one. Mine never broke and I beat the hell out of mine but I knew I was on borrowed time and I use to think twice before launching or doing burnouts on the street. Others have blown out with just stock power rolling into gear off idle.

I was just giving my advice, but its his car and he can do what he wants. I guess im the guy who would be "Better safe than sorry".

That wasn't a plug for my tuning though... the VAST majority of forced induction cars that I see have stock bottom ends. They are absolutely not on 'borrowed time'. The cost JUMPS up when you forge the motor.

For rears and drive shafts, you will find that the guys that break them always break them.

[Spaz]

one other thing i haven't seen mentioned is that it depends on how the motor was treated prior to the boost...

[35th-ANV-SS]

I am glad you chimed in Frost as I've been trying to decide whether to just throw a Procharger on mine and call it a day or forge the internals. Everything I've read over on tech says 8# on a stock bottom end "rarely" results in any internal damage.

I have 18K miles on my 2002, so my thought process was that with such low mileage and proper maintenance I have kept on my vehicle, it should be a great foundation for running the 8# of boost with stock internals. Even more so longevity wise because of the low miles the car sees.

However, there have been a couple incidents where piston #8 ringlands go on 8#. This of course be the result of a number of things.

[Frost]

Use methanol (from a quality kit like Alkycontrol), avoid ragged edge tuning; you will be good.

[FasstChevys]

Use methanol (from a quality kit like Alkycontrol), avoid ragged edge tuning; you will be good.

Thanks for stepping in - you were much more tactful than I would've been.