415 Stroker,KB 3.6LC,or Both?

[Pro-StreetLS427]

I read that you can build an LS3 into 427 CID but they are weakier than a 415when forced induction is used.

How much $$$ am I looking at to build a good quality 415 LS3?

Is the Kenne Bell 3.6 or 4.2LC twin screw a more or less expensive option?

Finally is it pure Overkill to build a Supercharged Stroker(408 LS2 or 415 LS3)?

[Deezl SS]

Finally is it pure Overkill to build a Supercharged Stroker(408 LS2 or 415 LS3)?

There is no such thing as overkill! That being said, it's true that while using an ls3 block and machining it into a 427 you will have less cylinder wall thickness and under boost, it will not be as strong. A 408 iron block with a big KB on top will be a torque monster and a VERY fun car to drive.

[azkass]

Build an LQ9 6.0 liter block with a big Whipple SC and you will be very satisfied

[Blackbird WS6]

you dont need alot of CI when running boost...there are people running a built 346 (ls1) with a procharger making over 700rwhp (auto)

if i was going boost i wouldnt go over a 402 and watch the CR

just my .02

[Packy]

I hope this is on a Vette because if it an F-body good luck getting that Twin Screw to fit and line up with the accessory pullies. I always like to say on a general rule of thumb keep it to around 346-370 for FI. If I went bigger than that I would use nitrous as my power adder but mostly run NA.

[Pro-StreetLS427]

I am reading as much as I can about the LS series of engines.

Each day I learn something else I didn't know previously.

For instance I learned the iron block 5.3L can be bored to LS1 bore size+ 3.902 or 3.905 and some have been bored larger than this.

With a 3.902 or 3.905 bore and a 4 inch stroker crank a 5.3L can be built into a 383 CID.

From what I've seen the twin screw supercharger provides great low end boost, a centrifugal is good for mid-top end power, and a turbo does the same with less parasitic loss due to no drive belt or step up drive.

Seems twin screws are alot more expense than turbos or centrifugals and as a power adder N2O is cheaper yet but needs a bottle filled often.

[Packy]

First figure out what your goal is for HP. Also it depends on what platform you are using because there are all kinds of variables such as drivetrain mods and suspension that will come into play once you determine how much HP you wanna make. It sounds like you are looking for a hefty amount of power.

[azkass]

you dont need alot of CI when running boost...there are people running a built 346 (ls1) with a procharger making over 700rwhp (auto)

if i was going boost i wouldnt go over a 402 and watch the CR

just my .02

Over 700 rwhp with a Procharger...really? Didn't know you can get that kind of power from one.

[Blackbird WS6]

I hope this is on a Vette because if it an F-body good luck getting that Twin Screw to fit and line up with the accessory pullies. I always like to say on a general rule of thumb keep it to around 346-370 for FI. If I went bigger than that I would use nitrous as my power adder but mostly run NA.

[Packy]

Over 700 rwhp with a Procharger...really? Didn't know you can get that kind of power from one.

Why not? There are many D1SC's and F1's are way above that HP figure with less than 400 ci. Most run only 347-383ci...

[Spikito]

one thing to keep in mind....i dont know of anyone making a kenne bell fit under the hood/cowl of an f-body. if seen one put into a GTO, and you might get one in a vette.

[azkass]

Why not? There are many D1SC's and F1's are way above that HP figure with less than 400 ci. Most run only 347-383ci...

I haven't seen any out here make that kind of power, yet. They usually make mid 500's on a good build. So you're saying on a good head/cam car with stock compression a D1SC will make an add'l 300 hp to the wheels, or more? Can you post some dyno #'s?

[Packy]

I haven't seen any out here make that kind of power, yet. They usually make mid 500's on a good build. So you're saying on a good head/cam car with stock compression a D1SC will make an add'l 300 hp to the wheels, or more? Can you post some dyno #'s?

I never said shit about stock compression. I said built 347-383's with D1SC/F1 Prochargers will make north of 700rwhp when set-up half-way decently. Check your pm's for links to some builds.

The normal build with a D1SC nets around mid to upper 500's to the wheels with a small cam and 8psi. There are many other variables that play into account with this. Such as exhaust, heads?, FMIC or stock ATI twin IC's, meth, comp. ratio, stall size/type of trans. (if auto), and also rear gear.

Heck my car only makes 550rwhp with 8 psi through an unlocked TH-400 with around a 4000 stall and a 347ci motor with stock 241 heads and 214/224 .563/.563 @114 cam with some damn choky Mac mid-lengths on it too! I also have a P1SC with the stock twin IC's soon to be a big FMIC. The Macs will also be changed out too.

[Pro-StreetLS427]

I am thinking about a few nontraditional choices for a low 10's- Mid 9's Street/Strip car.

I am thinking about either a 1)1987-1993 Fox Body Mustang,2) 1990's Ford Thunderbird or 1980's Ford Fairmount, 3)1973-1988 Camaro or 4)new model S-10,Canyon, or Colorado.

The imports like the Mazda RX-7, Nissan 240SX, Toyota Supra or Skyline, DSMs like the Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, Datsun 240-300ZX all are very expensive or have tiny engine compartments.

I like what I have read about D-1SC Prochargers and single 72-82 MM Turbos maybe with Methanol/H2O injection in conjunction with air to air intercooling.

Since I have read about iron block LS motors the 5.3L LM4/7 or 6.0L LQ4/9 rebuilt as a 383 cid or 413 stroker (with a 8.75-9.25:1 CR) built for FI sounds better than a new LS3.

Thank Ya'll for your time and ideas.