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01-16-2010, 06:53 PM #1
- Join Date
- Aug 2009
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- detroit
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- 20
black- 1999 camaro z28
what has 2 be done to run nitrous?
i would like to run a 50 - 100 shot nitrous kit. not sure but what else has to be modified on the car? and is a dry or wet kit better? thanks
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01-16-2010, 07:00 PM #2
Go with a wet kit and retard the timing 2 degress for every 50hp on n20
and oh yea NGKTR6 plugs
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01-16-2010, 07:27 PM #3
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- Aug 2009
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- detroit
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- 20
black- 1999 camaro z28
thanks for the reply. is there any need for reinforce the rear end or any of that stuff?
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01-16-2010, 07:51 PM #4
YOU DON'T NEED TO RETARD TIMING TILL 125+. tHE REAR WILL LAST IF YOU DON'T USE DR'S
04 C5 A4 Torch Red - sold
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02 Z/28 M6 Onyx Black All Options - Sold
2014 Caddy CTS4 - DD
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01-16-2010, 07:53 PM #5
If you're staying with 50 and no more then 100, I'd say no. I have been running 150 - 200 shot for the past 25k miles, but don't go past 100 shot without mods unless you want some extra bills coming your way.
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01-16-2010, 07:58 PM #6
WOW, I think that's pushing it....I lost an intake by following that same advice. I had a hole as big as my fist in it, I went the cheap route first and found out it wasn't that cheap after all.
Just my 2 cents,,,once you get started with the bottle its hard NOT to want more and then you find yourself saying....well lets see what 50 more will feel like.
Its a kick in the ass, but 50 isn't enough...100 is just getting to start feeling good.
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01-17-2010, 09:07 AM #7
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01-19-2010, 07:55 AM #8
I'm pretty sure he is talking about drivetrain mods such as that puny 10 bolt that we are all cursed with. I mean some cars go forever without blowing the diff apart (lucky) but some will destroy it on the first nitrous pass. And the clutch is another thing too.
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01-23-2010, 11:41 AM #9
- Join Date
- Jan 2010
- Location
- Chicago
- Posts
- 3
- 2000 Z/28
50-100 shot should work fine without any other mods as long as you are running 92-93 octane fuel. Just make sure you aren't using a tune with advanced timing.
Once you start stepping it up past there, you will need to start retarding timing.
The stock 10 bolt should be OK as long as you aren't using sticky tires.
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01-23-2010, 06:17 PM #10
Window switch and youll save your intake.
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01-23-2010, 07:02 PM #11
- Join Date
- Aug 2007
- Location
- Texas
- Age
- 37
- Posts
- 4,546
2001 3.8 Black - sold- 2000 SS Black M6
From my understanding, under 100 shot you dont need to do anything special, but having an intake and exhaust will really make the nitrous work better.
but you dont need any supporting mods until up past 125
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01-24-2010, 06:53 AM #12
- Join Date
- Aug 2009
- Location
- detroit
- Posts
- 20
black- 1999 camaro z28
well thanks for the info everyone that sounds good. i do have the exhaust and the k&n air intake.what do you guys think about using a dry or wet kit?
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01-24-2010, 08:57 AM #13
- Join Date
- Oct 2009
- Location
- Las Vegas
- Posts
- 125
- 2000 ss/1994 z28/1979 z28
Diff. wet kit. Maybe some bigger fuel injectors for extra insurance, cause it won't look pretty if your engine goes to lean. Most people i know don't go bigger unless your going with a big kit. If you go with a 50-100 shot you should be fine with out them, just make sure to go wet! lol
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01-24-2010, 12:36 PM #14
I've had both dry and wet. I like the dry kit for street use. I ran my dry kit for 5 years no problems. I liked it cause it's less complicated. No purging required, no fuel solenoids (thay can fail). If the N20 solenoid fails on the dry kit no loss. It doesn't hit as hard so it's easier to manage the power on street rubber. The bottle last longer. I was running 11.8 @118 with stock long block with dry kit. Matter of fact I'm thinking of putting it back on the car and have both systems and use the dry for the street, wet for track. I blow the tires off through three gears with the wet kit. Cars all over the road. It's exciting............ butt.. you know.
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01-25-2010, 12:51 PM #15
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- Aug 2009
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- detroit
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- 20
black- 1999 camaro z28
cool thanks for the info based on that i think it will be a dry kit.its street use anyhow.how is the install, im pretty handy with wrench but not the greatest.wondering if i should have someone hook it up 4 me or not. this whole concept is new to me i bought the car new in 99 and just flipped 40k, im just lookin for a little more punch you know
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01-25-2010, 06:48 PM #16
Dry kit is easy to instal. I think the requirements are for ages three and up. With just general skills you can easily install in a day. And really should just take about 2 to 3 hours. Garunteed smiles ear to ear.
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01-26-2010, 08:37 AM #17
The only thing about having a dry kit is you will need a pump AND injectors for anything above a 100-125 shot and you are still cutting it close with the 125 hit.
02 Camaro
PRC Stg 2.5 5.3's, Futral F14, PP Typhoon intake, True duals, Performabuilt tranny, & 3500 convertor, HSW plate kit.
*Old Time* 10.90@ 125mph
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01-26-2010, 09:05 AM #18
id say if you can restrain yourself to under a 100 shot then go the dry kit but im guessing you will want to spray more so id go with a wet kit, if you have a manual then get a WOT switch and if you have an auto get a window switch also, they will save on your drivetrain so you arent spraying during a shift. as long as you stay away from a sticky tire you should be fine as far as drivetrain life. I spray anywhere between 100-175 on my wet kit. you'll want to get it tuned or find someone with a windband so you can dial in your air/fuel ratio. call the kit manufacturer about recommended jet sizes for fuel and nitrous and start there, you can change your a/f ratio with your fuel jets.
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01-26-2010, 04:55 PM #19
Stock pump, stock longblock, stock injectors are all up to handling a 125 dry shot. Mine did for years of heavy abuse. I actually had a hyperteck tune for many of those years. Never had a check engine light or problem (except for blown rear) with the dry shot. Simple and effective. Good street kit
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