NOS fogger direct port?

**JwMonE99** · 02-11-2009, 06:56 PM

Ok I was looking at getting a direct port NOS kit which I guess was also a fogger system?
How exactly does the fogger system work? Can it still be operated with the WOT switch? Is it "safe" and does a direct port system still work on "150 or 100 or 175" ect. ect. shots?
Looking at putting this on a 383 LT1 H/C/I with a 9:1 compression.

**LS2Tuner** · 02-12-2009, 02:21 AM

Yes you could say that a direct port system is a fogger. There are MANY different style of fogger nozzles now also.

It works by directly spraying a jetted amount of nitrous and fuel into each cylinder.

ANY system can be wired with a WOT switch. I ALWAYS wire ALL my kits with a hand held button wired in series with a WOT switch. I have seen too many people in the guardrail at the track due to the system working completely off the WOT switch. When the car begins to spin or get in the marbles you have to let off the throttle to turn off the kit. . . . . . . .

That in turn unloads the rear suspension which usual causes you to loose it worse. Specially if your on the big. When wired with a hand held button you can just let off the kit and keep the motor under WFO and drive through it to straighten the car out. It will also aid greatly in NOT getting beat on the street due to spinning. You can pulse the button until it hooks. If your letting off the throttle to to accomplish this you are already looking at taillights.

Safe? YES a direct port system IF installed correctly is the safest there is.
Since each cylinder is getting it's own shot you don't have to worry about distribution issues through the intake to the end cylinders.

And yes you can jet the fogger nozzles as low as you'd like. I have some street cars that play out on the street with 50hp jets due to running regular street tires. Plus they(foggers) hit harder due to the placement of the nozzle directly in front of the intake port.

**JwMonE99** · 02-12-2009, 05:16 AM

Well what exactly is fogger?

**LS2Tuner** · 02-12-2009, 05:54 AM

Originally Posted by JwMonE99

Well what exactly is fogger?

A name for the type of nozzle.

It make a "fog" out of the nitrous and fuel.

**JwMonE99** · 02-12-2009, 06:11 AM

Arite well I am gong to have a forged 383 build along with H/C/I and most likely a 9 to1 compression.
Is is possible to make 400+RWHP all motor? then I am wanting to do a direct port.
Does it sound like a good setup?

**NoscamaroSS** · 02-12-2009, 07:59 AM

Its very possible, but why so low on the compression?

**JwMonE99** · 02-12-2009, 11:25 AM

I was told the lower compression would be able to handle more???
Thats why I came on here asking, originally I was going to do an 11 to 1.

**NoscamaroSS** · 02-12-2009, 01:45 PM

Youll be able to run more timing while on the bottle, but you dont drive around on the bottle. With the correct electronics (timing retard, tune), you will still be able to run a large shot and have good off the bottle performance.

**JwMonE99** · 02-13-2009, 05:20 AM

Well I am planning on getting a stand alone and I would have 3 tunes. 1 for gas mileage, 1 for all out n/a, and 1 for the spray.

**LS2Tuner** · 02-13-2009, 06:12 AM

Well if your going to do a stand alone fuel system then keep the motor 11:1 for sure. Your only talking about baby shot(150) anyway.

Run A very high and heavy fuel in the fuel cell for the nitrous and you'll be fine. You won't even need to pull much timing as long as your running the right plugs already.
Such as Sunoco's MaxNOS. It's 119 octane and VERY heavy which will be more than enough for your combo. It also has a shelf life of years if stored properly.
http://www.aaoil.co.uk/racing-Sunoco-MaxNOS

**JwMonE99** · 02-13-2009, 06:35 AM

Im not going to be running with race gas.
This is still going to be my daily driver, I would just like to have the spray for the track when I go. Very few occasions on the street.
I already have a walboro255 fuel pump. and I will be putting in NGKTR56s in the new motor.
Btw how do the NGKTR56s do for DD n/a cars?

**NoscamaroSS** · 02-13-2009, 08:53 AM

Hes talking about race gas in your stand alone, its just there for a little added assurance when you spray to help stay off any detonation.

**squee** · 02-13-2009, 12:25 PM

Originally Posted by NoscamaroSS

Hes talking about race gas in your stand alone, its just there for a little added assurance when you spray to help stay off any detonation.

I think when he said stand alone, he meant stand alone fuel management I guess to be able to switch between tunes, not stand alone for the NO2 kit.

**JwMonE99** · 02-13-2009, 01:05 PM

Originally Posted by squee

I think when he said stand alone, he meant stand alone fuel management I guess to be able to switch between tunes, not stand alone for the NO2 kit.

Correct

**LS2Tuner** · 02-13-2009, 01:06 PM

Originally Posted by JwMonE99

Im not going to be running with race gas.
This is still going to be my daily driver, I would just like to have the spray for the track when I go. Very few occasions on the street.
I already have a walboro255 fuel pump. and I will be putting in NGKTR56s in the new motor.
Btw how do the NGKTR56s do for DD n/a cars?

Well than you won't be spraying a 11:1 motor on pump gas! Not sure on the NGK's I don't care for them and don't run them myself. I only run AR AutoLite race plugs in bottle motors.

Originally Posted by NoscamaroSS

Hes talking about race gas in your stand alone, its just there for a little added assurance when you spray to help stay off any detonation.

Yes I was. I think Jw is a little confused on his terms.

Originally Posted by squee

I think when he said stand alone, he meant stand alone fuel management I guess to be able to switch between tunes, not stand alone for the NO2 kit.

Stand alone fuel management? What's that? How's that one work?

**JwMonE99** · 02-13-2009, 04:13 PM

Originally Posted by LS2Tuner

Well than you won't be spraying a 11:1 motor on pump gas! Not sure on the NGK's I don't care for them and don't run them myself. I only run AR AutoLite race plugs in bottle motors.

Stand alone fuel management? What's that? How's that one work?

So what is an ideal compression for spray?
I said orignally I was going to do 11 to 1 and then someone told me to do a 9 to 1.

The stand alone I was talking about was regular ECU stand alone. I dont know how else to put it.

**JwMonE99** · 02-14-2009, 09:23 PM

Originally Posted by JwMonE99

So what is an ideal compression for spray?
I said orignally I was going to do 11 to 1 and then someone told me to do a 9 to 1.

TTT?

**Nick@HSW** · 02-17-2009, 12:56 PM

Well for starters at that low of a shot I would not recommend a direct port system. Especially if its running a high pressure fuel system. Reason being that you're going to have to run tiny fuel jets in each nozzle which will be very susceptible to debris blocking them as well as very little movement for jets to correct a/f. At 45psi a 200RWHP shot will require around .014" diameter jet. That's tiny! That being said, you won't have any issues running a single nozzle set up at the hp levels you're looking for and that's what I would recommend to you.

For every system I recommend at least a wot/tps switch as well as a window switch. Too many "what-ifs" without them. Just make sure you run the low amp wire through the wot switch when wiring it up as they aren't rated to carry a high load draw.

For the compression...what is the purpose of the vehicle? If it was me, I wouldn't run the 9:1. The issue is really with keeping peak cylinder pressures around 15-20* ATDC. Optimally if you're running perfect timing N/A your peak cylinder pressures are going to fall around 15-20* ATDC. When you spray nitrous you're actually speeding up the burn rate and generating peak cylinder pressures too early in the rotation. Think of it this way...if you speed the burn rate up, you're essentially making it more difficult for that piston to approach TDC and will lose hp. So what do we do, right? By knocking the timing out we can push the peak cylinder pressures back to optimal or we can also use a fuel that is less susceptible to pre-ignition that can tolerate the higher cylinder pressures and temperatures. So if you have the means to support the nitrous fueling and timing requirements than the sky is the limit. What we need to keep in mind is that this isn't a huge shot and it isn't ridiculous compression. So with that in mind, I see no issue with you running the higher 11:1 compression.

There also seems to be some confussion with stand alone systems. There are in fact a few ways of viewing it...first being a stand alone fuel cell such as this. What it allows for is a higher octane fuel to be run as the fuel side of the equation on a wet kit. We can also use the fuel cell to convert it over to a low pressure fuel system. Major benefit there is that we now have a wide selection of jets and we can make incremental changes in orifice size without major difference in a/f. Down side is obviously you'll need to flow the system to ensure that atmospheric pressure isn't playing with the tune up. There is also a stand alone engine management system such as the BS3 or FAST XFI. I really don't see too much of a need for either in this case. Both would make life easier but that's beside the point.

For the plugs, I've never heard of that part number. Based on the 11:1 compression and the size shot, I would start with a NGK heat range of 8. Make sure its a non-projected tip and start with the widest gap possible and work your way down if you start blowing out spark. Shoot me a PM with your email and I can send you a reference chart with a few different brand plugs if you don't like the NGK's.

Nick

**JwMonE99** · 02-17-2009, 09:29 PM

^Good info great advice. I am just getting ahead of myself, I just started building the motor and the spray will be last. Originally I was wanting zex but after looking into it a little more I will probably stay away cause I want to adjust shit.
So Nick for my application do you think it would be better off with a wet or dry shot? I kinda know the difference but still dont understand it that well.