Results 1 to 20 of 20
Thread: NOS & Automatics??
-
01-16-2007, 08:15 AM #1
NOS & Automatics??
HELP, I have been trying to learn what I can about nitrous. This is something I said I would never do , but I am looking at it because this appears to be the cheapest horse power out there.
This what I am working on: 2002 WS 6 automatic, 14k miles, only the free mods have been installed (airbox, K & N, polish MAF, 160deg thermostat)
This what I think I know:
The wet system seems to be the better of the two?
Everyone talks about the Window Switch, do you need this for a automatic ??
What is the down side to using NOS?
How hard is this on a automatic?
Can you use the NOS while the auto is shifting gears??
Thanks in advance
Bill
-
01-16-2007, 08:40 AM #2
wet system allows you to adjust the a/f ratio via the jets. don't need larger injectors or fuel pump.
window switch is nice to have, just not necessary. window switch has rpm activation/deactivation points. this leaves you to concentrate on launching and not have to think about when to turn it on.
down side to nitrous? well, it brings your ET down. it can be harder on engine/drivetrain when you get up there in the power levels.
i spray through the shifts. others will deactivate it just before shifting to put less stress on the trans to help it last longer.Cold Air Intake, Muffler Delete, Vinci High Performance Dual Valve Springs, Hardened Pushrods, Yella Terra 1.85 Rockers, Some Hydropdipped Stuff, Strut Tower Brace, Some SS Badges, boost/vacuum gauge, fuel pressure gauge, some checkered stripes, drilled/slotted rotors, ZL1addons Stealth wickerbill, Ruxifey LED side markers
-
01-16-2007, 08:41 AM #3
yes wet is better
yes you need a window switch
down side of nos is not spending $ on saftey n blowing up something.
if you spray through shifts it will eat up your tranny - get a window switch
see above
lastly use the search function
-
01-16-2007, 08:54 AM #4
Thanks for the help
As far as the "Search" wasn't sure what to search for or how to use ??? Sorry
-
01-16-2007, 09:52 AM #5
-
01-16-2007, 10:07 AM #6
- Join Date
- Aug 1999
- Location
- Arizona
- Posts
- 51,362
Black- 383 Procharged & N20 Vert
Black 1999 Blown Convertible A4
Forged 383 | ATI D-1SC
NX MAF Kit | 222/226 .585 115
AS Stage II 6.0L FI Heads
Moser 9" | 3.70 | Wavetrac | 35 Spline | Vigilante 3600
548.0 RWHP - 563.8 RWTQ - 10# - D1
666.0 RWHP - 734.2 RWTQ - 125 Shot - P1
Black 2009 Escalade Hybrid 4WD
-
01-16-2007, 10:11 AM #7
Check out the Wet vs. Dry thread on Ls1tech. I really think the answer to "better" lies with the answer to "how big of shot are you going to go with". Then "better" = "easier to tune".
Under 150 shot, I strongly support Dry. Over that, and then you're talking injector upgrade (took me about 30 mins and $200), a tuning program, and for the f-body guys, a fuel pump upgrade. (which is needed for either system with big n2o shots)
and no, I don't shift through the gears but I do see a lot of guys doing it. I also care more for a tranny than I do for that last .05 seconds.
-
01-20-2007, 09:25 PM #8
-
01-20-2007, 09:26 PM #9
- Join Date
- Aug 2005
- Location
- Cape Coral, FL
- Age
- 39
- Posts
- 3,100
Mystic Teal- 99 Trans Am & 01 CBR 929
also now they have progressive nitrous controllers which will make it even more like a blower than anything else. something i am looking into myself soon
before anyone asks...
http://www.nitrousexpress.com/Pages/MC_Progressive.htm
-
01-21-2007, 05:06 AM #10
Thanks Guys!! This is what I like about this board....a person can learn soooo much!
Thanks again
Bill
-
01-21-2007, 11:01 AM #11
I've been doing some reading and theres a lot of people saying that progressive controllers are really hard on your noids. Some say that one run with a progressive controller puts about as much damage on the noid as a full season of racing without the controller. Ya might wanna look into a dual stage setup.
-
01-21-2007, 02:36 PM #12
-
01-21-2007, 04:40 PM #13
well, why is wet too much trouble?
i see dry as more trouble. you have to make sure the nozzle is placed correctly, so the MAF can read the incoming nitrous to supply the fuel. if not read properly, then you go lean. if you can't get a good enough reading, then you have to go into the PCM to tune for it. then, depending on how much duty cycle you injectors are at, you may need to upgrade, along with a fuel pump, so it can feed the injectors.
with a wet, it's easier to tune it. all you have to do is change the jetting around to get the proper a/f ratio you are shooting for. no need for upgrading the fuel pump and injectors. the nozzle injects the fuel, instead of the injectors.
-
01-21-2007, 05:15 PM #14
-
01-21-2007, 06:14 PM #15
-
02-06-2007, 12:54 PM #16
Well, I see the major boom if the fuel solenoid doesn't open on a wet kit.......but don't really see the boom if a injector doesn't open on a dry setup. I'm no expert here so please explain to me.
It looks like if an injector doesn't open on 1 cylinder with a dry kit, then there will be no combustion no matter how much N20 you have going into that cylinder. No combustion means no damage. Now on a wet kit, were some of the fuel is coming from the nozzle and some is coming from the injector I could see it going lean and hurting the motor.
I've been anti dry kit for so long but have been researching it lately due to fuel puddling issues etc. with the wet setup. Seems the only way to run a wet kit on todays intakes is with DP setup.
Not being a no-it-all, just wanting more info.......so chat away!
-
02-07-2007, 05:25 AM #17
if a fuel injector doesn't open on one cylinder, there will still be a 'boom'. once the exhaust valve opens, all the unburnt nitrous goes into and mixes with the unburnt fuel in the exhaust system. now, you've just fed the fuel more oxygen. and in a hot environment, it suddenly burns when it's not supposed to. now, this can go backwards back into the cylinder, called reversion. you may not blow an intake, but you can still pop a ringland. yes, this is a lesser chance.
fuel puddling is a myth, per say. stalling of the air flow is the problem. it's when you overload the intake tract with nitrous and fuel and it's got nowhere to go is when problems arise. then, because of reversion and cam overlap, a flame comes back into the intake tract and ignites what's in the intake.
i've had backfires through the intake on a dy kit on my LT1 years ago. this was due to weak spark from the cylinder pressures overpowering the coil's ability to produce enough spark to jump the gap. which comes back to the reversion allowing flame travel back into the intake.
-
02-07-2007, 04:34 PM #18
i still think that if saftey is the primary concern, go dry and 75 or less,
the chances for catastrophic failure are slim
over 100 or heaven forbid 200 plus, wet is must have imo.
-
02-14-2007, 07:30 AM #19
- Join Date
- Feb 2007
- Location
- TX
- Posts
- 3
none- none
Why Not?
Ok, I had somone ask me about a 3200 TC i'm selling for his automatic and Nitrous setup. I thought I'd throw this to the expert since it's somewhat related to this thread... Why wouldn't an auto with aftermarket TC work with Nitrous? I mean it should be fine. right?
-
02-14-2007, 04:38 PM #20
don't know why it wouldn't work. been doing fine for me, and just about everyone one that has an auto. i run the yank py3400e myself.
Thread Information
Users Browsing this Thread
There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)
Similar Threads
-
Question: FLT or Extreme Automatics?
By 98TransAmWs-6 in forum Automatic TransmissionReplies: 29Last Post: 03-21-2014, 02:17 PM -
Talking Automatics and ATF
By Sarge in forum GTOReplies: 5Last Post: 04-01-2008, 07:55 PM -
Anybody know what c6 automatics dyno?
By mach350z in forum Internal EngineReplies: 0Last Post: 06-27-2007, 06:58 AM -
burnout questions for automatics
By shady1504 in forum Drag RacingReplies: 33Last Post: 04-29-2006, 02:45 PM
Bookmarks