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Thread: N20 problem

  1. #1
    Member Orange SS's Avatar
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    N20 problem

    have a CF wet kit, using Dynotune window switch...system kicks on when it's suppose to but then kicks off about 1.5 seconds later....had the same thing happen with MSD digital window switch, so i got the Dynotune one thinkin the MSD was the problem.....i'm stuck i dont know what it could be, went over wiring now several times but everything looks good....thanx

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    Senior Member mrr23's Avatar
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    my thought would be the relay is overheating. try a different one.
    Cold Air Intake, Muffler Delete, Vinci High Performance Dual Valve Springs, Hardened Pushrods, Yella Terra 1.85 Rockers, Some Hydropdipped Stuff, Strut Tower Brace, Some SS Badges, boost/vacuum gauge, fuel pressure gauge, some checkered stripes, drilled/slotted rotors, ZL1addons Stealth wickerbill, Ruxifey LED side markers

  3. #3
    Member Orange SS's Avatar
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    thought that too, had a cheap parts store 30/40 relay,swapped it out for a better 40/60, no improvement

  4. #4
    Senior Member mrr23's Avatar
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    Fpss?

  5. #5
    Member Orange SS's Avatar
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    Ermine White
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    not using one



  6. #6
    Senior Member mrr23's Avatar
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    have you tried using the nitrous without the window switch? next thought is where is the window switch grounded at?

  7. #7
    Member Orange SS's Avatar
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    no i havent, using window switch TPS input for WOT activation.....on the battery ground point on the pass side fender well...

  8. #8
    Senior Member mrr23's Avatar
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    you'll have to seperate the system. use the main arming switch for an activation switch. or now, connect the 86 and 87 terminals together. this will bypass the window switch and send direct power to the noids once you turn it on. go out for a drive. get up to 3000 rpms and go to WOT. then flip the switch. if the noids aren't losing power, you should make it to 6000 rpms. if you do, then turn the power off, then let off the pedal. doing this will let you know if it's a noid issue.

    make sure on shut down, you do it the way i have it in bold. that way you don't forget to shut the system off after you let off the gas pedal. so long as you have the power on, the nitrous will stay on.

  9. #9
    Senior Member mrr23's Avatar
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    what's the latest on this?

  10. #10
    Member Orange SS's Avatar
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    not sure, i just moved the noid ground from block to chassis (see previous post) was doin a test run but ran out of juice...hopefully can get a refill before it starts snowin....on a side note i have my noids mounted to a custom bracket that mounts on the head, do you think the extra heat could be affecting the solenoid operation ?


  11. #11
    Member GotN2O's Avatar
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    The place where you have the solenoids mounted should not be affecting the solenoids. That is the same place that I have mine mounted and I have the same CF kit. I am also using the MSD digital window switch. The MSD dig. switch has to be set on 4 cyl. mode due to the coil packs on the LS-1 or it wont read the right rpms. It sounds to me like its possibly a problem with the TPS. What size shot are you running and what jet in fuel and N2O?

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    Member Orange SS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GotN2O View Post
    The place where you have the solenoids mounted should not be affecting the solenoids. That is the same place that I have mine mounted and I have the same CF kit. I am also using the MSD digital window switch. The MSD dig. switch has to be set on 4 cyl. mode due to the coil packs on the LS-1 or it wont read the right rpms. It sounds to me like its possibly a problem with the TPS. What size shot are you running and what jet in fuel and N2O?

    not using MSD, please see above.......150, 62/33

  13. #13
    Senior Member mrr23's Avatar
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    what gotn2o hit on something. does the dynotune have to be set for a certain cylinder engine? 4, 6, or 8? if the switches are set to 8 cylinder, it's doubling the rpm reading. so 3000 rpms would read 6000 rpms to the switch. now, you say it shuts off after 1.5 seconds. if you shift, does it come back on? maybe not because 4000 rpms would be 8000 rpms.

    try setting to 4 cylinder like he suggested, or bypass like i suggested. something will work.
    Last edited by mrr23; 12-15-2006 at 06:52 AM.

  14. #14
    Nitrous Tuner LS2Tuner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Orange SS View Post
    no i havent, using window switch TPS input for WOT activation.....on the battery ground point on the pass side fender well...
    When it kicks off......... Both solinoids loose power..... It doesn't start missing like just the n20 side if off.....?

    Also I ALWAYS wire it so the sol. are seeing constant power...So your actually giving it a ground signal through the relay.... It see less of a voltage drop that way

    Feel free to pm me your # and I'll call you if you haven't figured it out.
    Don't be afraid of the bottle!!! Be afraid of your tune!!!

  15. #15
    Member Orange SS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrr23 View Post
    what gotn2o hit on something. does hte dynotune have t oset for a certain cylinder engine? 4, 6, or 8? if the switches are set to 8 cylinder, it's doubling the rpm reading. so 3000 rpms would read 6000 rpms to the switch. now, you say it shuts off after 1.5 seconds. if you shift, does it come back on? maybe not because 4000 rpms would be 8000 rpms.

    try setting to 4 cylinder like he suggested, or bypass like i suggested. something wil lwork.

    yes it comes back after shifting, WS ignition cycle setting is correct, reads 900 rpms@idle, that's what i have my idle set to....troubleshooting might have to wait, suppose to get some bad weather this week...thanx for the help

  16. #16
    Member Orange SS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LS2Tuner View Post
    When it kicks off......... Both solinoids loose power..... It doesn't start missing like just the n20 side if off.....?

    Also I ALWAYS wire it so the sol. are seeing constant power...So your actually giving it a ground signal through the relay.... It see less of a voltage drop that way

    Feel free to pm me your # and I'll call you if you haven't figured it out.
    cool, never thought of doin it that way, might rewire it just for S&G's then...thanx for the help and the offer

  17. #17
    Nitrous Tuner LS2Tuner's Avatar
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    No problem it actually keeps the sol. cooler becuae they don't see an intial voltage drop.

    Hope I helped.

  18. #18
    Member Orange SS's Avatar
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    is it safe to assume it's better for the noids switchin ground instead of power ?

  19. #19
    Nitrous Tuner LS2Tuner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Orange SS View Post
    is it safe to assume it's better for the noids switchin ground instead of power ?
    Yes that is a better way of doing things for sure......... That is how most "late model" circuits are wired also.

  20. #20
    Member Orange SS's Avatar
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    i know most injector drivers are set up that way...makes sense

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