More Nitrous

**N20LT4** · 08-04-2007, 03:11 PM

Do you guys think it would be safe to jump from the 100 jets to 150's? The car has full bolt-ons:
Aeromotive Crank Pulley
GMPP 1.6 Rockers
Ported stock 52mm TB/CPS Air Foil
1LE Elbow
CAI
Accel 24# Injectors
Aeromotive Fuel System
BeCool Aluminum Radatior
Meizure H20 Pump/ 160 stat
Kooks 1-3/4" Long-Tubes/Y-pipe
QTEP Cutout/Flowmaster 3" in/3"x2 out Cat-back
TPIChips.com custom tune
And last but not least, the Dyno Tune Wet Kit.

The main concern is that the car has 125k on it, but runs excellent as is. But, I know the internals are original, and I wouldn't wan't to take it from a great running car to a car that's sitting with a blown motor. What do you guys think, should I wait until the 355 forged piston rebuild in '08, or can I go in the garage and slap those different jets in there???

**mrr23** · 08-04-2007, 06:29 PM

don't see why not. maybe go one step colder on the plugs.

**N20LT4** · 08-04-2007, 11:51 PM

That's a possibility

**juiced99ws6** · 08-05-2007, 10:00 AM

if the car still runs strong then do it!

**sgt0704** · 08-06-2007, 12:28 AM

no balls.

**sgt0704** · 08-06-2007, 12:30 AM

besides, if you do blow it, then you can drop an lsx in it.

**greatwhiteZ28** · 08-06-2007, 07:12 PM

now thats always the best way to look at itLOL

**greatwhiteZ28** · 08-06-2007, 07:13 PM

friend of mine really tried to blow his up( LT1) and still going strong after 150 shots left and right for years. soo hope your that luckey

**N20LT4** · 08-08-2007, 01:27 AM

Stepped up to the 150 jets Sunday. Cars a monster. Made 411rw before, can't wait to see what it will pull now. Oh, and by the way, the joy of pulling LSx's with my "old" LT1 is just to rewarding - id never swap it

**Todd157k** · 08-13-2007, 12:55 PM

If it breaks with 150 jets, it will break with 125s. It will just break .02 seconds earlier.

**greatwhiteZ28** · 08-13-2007, 06:06 PM

not to hijack but since talking about spray and lt1 ans ls1's which one is better for spray stock?? MRR23,, aluminum block VS cast iron i guess is what determines

**LS2Tuner** · 08-20-2007, 09:59 AM

Originally Posted by N20LT4

Stepped up to the 150 jets Sunday. Cars a monster. Made 411rw before, can't wait to see what it will pull now. Oh, and by the way, the joy of pulling LSx's with my "old" LT1 is just to rewarding - id never swap it

Thats great that you steped up!! I would just keep CLEAN oil in her. Dirty old oil detonates worse than clean oil.......... At least that is what we have figured out over the years.
Also didn't see you say anything about your plugs your running or the gap..?

**greatwhiteZ28** · 08-20-2007, 04:58 PM

Originally Posted by greatwhiteZ28

not to hijack but since talking about spray and lt1 ans ls1's which one is better for spray stock?? MRR23,, aluminum block VS cast iron i guess is what determines

soo anybody what is better/stronger for spray lt1 or ls1

**LS2Tuner** · 08-20-2007, 05:03 PM

Originally Posted by greatwhiteZ28

soo anybody what is better/stronger for spray lt1 or ls1

If that is a serious ? the LT1 is NO comparision to a LS1!!
The LS is a much better design in technology and strength.

**greatwhiteZ28** · 08-21-2007, 04:29 PM

sorry didnt know, just have 3 friends with the LT1s and they always brag about that there is way stronger then my alum block/heads

**greatwhiteZ28** · 08-21-2007, 04:29 PM

could you tell me why soo i can rub that is there face

**LS2Tuner** · 08-21-2007, 04:48 PM

Yes your block is "skirted" like a BIG Block MOPAR.
Which means the block casting extends lower than the were the main caps bolt to the block. Which adds MUCH strength.
The LT was a joke most engine builders or people that are fimiliar with them from working at a machine shop will tell you the same.
There are other things too but not as easy to explain.

**N20LT4** · 08-21-2007, 06:25 PM

Originally Posted by LS2Tuner

If that is a serious ? the LT1 is NO comparision to a LS1!!
The LS is a much better design in technology and strength.

The LT1 is a good motor as well. While not as advanced as the LS1 (duh, it's older), it's iron block is pretty tough and can handle a good deal of nitrous. If an LT1 is no comparison to an LS1 than an LS1 is cookies compared to an '03-'04 Cobra, but I guess that wasn't his question wasn't it

**N20LT4** · 08-21-2007, 06:30 PM

And just to update you all on this thread, I wussed out and back'd down to the 100's for now. While the car runs excellent, the 125k on the odo just worried me to much. I would hate to take a good running motor and turn it into crap if I can avoid it. A Forged 355 with a Speed Demon custom grind and Advanced Induction 200cc's is coming very soon. She WILL make well over 500 rear wheel.

**LS2Tuner** · 08-21-2007, 06:54 PM

Originally Posted by N20LT4

And just to update you all on this thread, I wussed out and back'd down to the 100's for now. While the car runs excellent, the 125k on the odo just worried me to much. I would hate to take a good running motor and turn it into crap if I can avoid it. A Forged 355 with a Speed Demon custom grind and Advanced Induction 200cc's is coming very soon. She WILL make well over 500 rear wheel.

Do a compression test if your that worried about the "high" milage you think you have then you'll know for sure your cylinders conditions.
I would look more into your head choice..... This is a street car right?
If so with a mear 355c.i. I would not go with a 200cc intake runner head.
That is on the large side for that displacement.
Just my 2 cents take it or leave it.
Port volocity plays a BIG role in your power band........
10 peak hp gain to loose 30-40 on your average is NOT worth it on a street car.