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Thread: Improved Racing Oil Pan Baffle
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07-23-2008, 03:18 PM #1
Improved Racing Oil Pan Baffle
Along with all the other projects, I made some time to install the Improved Racing oil pan baffle. As a quick background, I have been over filling the pan with about a quart and a half oil to keep from sucking on air.
I received the baffle a few weeks ago. First impressions: nice brushed aluminum, clean, precise welds. I had an old LS1 pan sitting around. Test fit: perfect. Lines up nicely, bolt holes all line up on center.
I opted to install it with out pulling the motor. Went fairly quick and easy. I got the car on jackstands. Attached a cherry picker to the front of the engine. moved the alternator out of the way. Removed the long motor mount bolts. Lifted the engine about 2 inches. Disconnected the intermediate steering shaft. I have an alternate brake line routing, so I did not have to loosen the ABS module. Disconnected the oil level sensor. Slowly removed the 6 bolts holding the k-member to the body. The K-member dropped about 4-5 inches down. Keep in mind I still have the swaybar, ect attached.
Next I pulled the oil pan bolts and took the pan out. I pulled the OEM baffle from the pan, dropped the Improved Racing Baffle in, and installed on the car. The rest is the reverse of the disassembly.
Total time invested just over 3 hours. I didn't even remove the wheels. Tools needed are the usual suspects: #10,#13,#15,#18 socket wrench, jack, jack stand, cherry picker/hoist.
So that was my Thursday night.
Friday I headed to the track. Willow Springs. For those that are not familiar with Willow, there is a 450' radius 200 degree turn. Long sweeper that just takes forever to get thru, and is a good test for any baffle.
I filled the pan to the top of the full line. About 1.5 quarts below where I usually fill it. Sat my brother-in-law next to me with the sole responsibility of monitoring the oil pressure. Took the car out to multiple 20 min sessions. The baffle passed the test. The oil pressure held steady the whole weekend. Not even flinching in the turns.
Here are some pictures:
distance gained by just lifting the front of the block
k-member bolts, also the brake line bracket is loosened out of the way
k-member and pan dropped. The pan is not pulled out yet. Note the total distance dropped/raised at the motor mount.
the baffle test fitted in the pan
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07-24-2008, 10:43 PM #2
- Join Date
- Nov 2005
- Location
- College Station TX
- Age
- 38
- Posts
- 1,873
Black- 2000 &2002 Z28
why dont they put these in stock?
TSP Rumbler, LT's, TSP Tqr2, PRC 921 Springs, Comp Lifters, Chromoly 7.4" Pushrods, Titanium Retainers/Seats/Seals, ARP head bolts, BMR full Rear suspension
"I could break a bowling ball with a plastic hammer in a sandbox"
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07-25-2008, 05:59 AM #3
- Join Date
- Aug 2005
- Location
- Thornton, CO
- Posts
- 23,773
Red Tint Jewelcoat- 2008 Trailblazer SS
My prayers have been answered!!!
Under hard accel in the lower gears mine will get some air.
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07-25-2008, 06:52 PM #4
this should fix it.
The best thing is that it is cheap.
Look on their website, there is a link in my signiture.
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07-31-2008, 10:56 AM #5
- Join Date
- Aug 2005
- Location
- North Olmsted, OH
- Age
- 49
- Posts
- 506
Navy Blue Metallic- 2000 Camaro Z28
Nice Review! This is on my list of mod for the winter. Hey are you coming to Ohio for the NASA Nationals this year Scott?
Last edited by Killer_bluebird; 07-31-2008 at 10:59 AM.
2000 NBM Camaro Z28
Mods:
SLP Lid & K&N, AHR Headers + 3" catted Y and Mangaflow, !EGR, !AIR, BMR CM STB, ST Front 35mm and Hellwig Adj. Rear 22mm Swaybar, Adj. Rod/Rod PHB, Koni SA's, Ground Control Springs & Adj. Ride height, and HPTuners.
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07-31-2008, 12:23 PM #6
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