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Thread: What cam should I use ?
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01-26-2017, 04:33 PM #1
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- Jan 2017
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- South georgia
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What cam should I use ?
I'm new on here but I see there are a lot of folks that can help me out with the right answers, I got a 2000 z28 dale Earnhardt edition with with just some little mods like tune for nitrous from Diablo sport 3 inch slp loudmouth exhaust nothing major internally besides injectors and pistons I'm trying to figure out what's the best cam choice to go with for street racing in a 8th and a good chop to it while I'm at the red light .
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01-26-2017, 08:09 PM #2
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- Feb 2009
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- Florida Man Status Acheivement
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Navy Blue Metallic- 98 T/A w/ mods, 00 FBVert
Having the right cam is great but you're going to need other supporting mods/upgrades to get the most out of it.
#1 would be upgrading the suspension. Having power but no traction is the same as a hell of a lot of noise but no bite.
#2 heads - stock heads will choke any major gains from the cam. Trick flow does sell a package deal on heads and cam that also comes with springs and pushrods.
#3 it's never just getting a cam, other things to do while in there like new timing chain (LS2 or C5, no need for double roller unless you plan on serious mods), upgrade the oil pump. Both have X miles on them and it's smart money to do them now then have to break apart later. Getting a set of heads at the same time will save you money. By this I mean in tuning. Getting a cam now - you'll need it tune, get heads later, guess what another tune. For $500 avg a pop you see my point.
#4 - more pwr means more stress on the drive train, particularly the rear. The 10 bolt in our cars is a POS to kindly put it. Not saying it will grenade immediately but you're on borrowed time. Especially if you're a manual and running slicks or DR's
As far as cam recommendations - need a little more info. Desire pwr range, still want to DD, etc...
Not trying to discourage you just putting it out there for you.http://www.ls1.com/forums/f7/my-6-liter-build-174257/
http://www.ls1.com/forums/f8/my-8-8-rear-build-165553/
6.0L Block - Forged 403ci , Polluter Stg3 Cam, FAST 102mm Intake, NW102 TB, MSD wires, NGK TR6 plugs, Truck Coil Packs, LS3 Fuel Injectors, CC Pacesetter LT Headers, TS&P ORY, QTP e-Cutout, Magnaflow Muffler, 104mm Air Lid & Line Lock, Catch Can, Stage 2 T56 w/Viper shaft, PRO 5.0 Shifter, Tick MC, SPEC Stg3+ Clutch, QT SFI BH, MWC DSL, Full UMI Performance Suspension, Belstein Shocks, Hotchkis Springs (1" Drop), YR1 Snowflake Wheels wrapped in NT555 tires & Custom Fab Ford 8.8 rear w/Wavetrac Diff 3.73 Yukon Gears, WSQ Hood, 3"CM Strange Eng Drive Shaft.
00 FB Vert - Stock
78 FB - Just getting started......
Horsepower never lies, but is often lied about!
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01-28-2017, 09:40 AM #3
^^ Agree. Although a cam is a good power adder, there is so much more that really should be done to both the engine and chassis in order to get the most out of it. Tire size, gears and transmission will dictate your rpm at the top of the eighth and you want to shoot for a cam that will keep you in the power. You need get up and go grunt that can be put to the ground as you have less distance to run the car to make up for any deficiency at the line.
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01-29-2017, 05:28 AM #4
If it's an automatic, get a torque converter first.
99 Z28 A4
Forged 347
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