Car hopping after spring install.

**SuperMacGuy** · 10-06-2016, 01:04 PM

Originally Posted by DarrenWS6

The OE bump-stops were so long ( awkwardly long in fact ) that the whole time I had these springs in the car the rear end must have been touching the bump-stops, if not, at least a 1/4" or so away from contact.

You have got to post pix of that bump stop. I find it impossible to believe that it was a stock bump stop (or correct replacement part) that could have been "so long" as to almost touch. Heck the ws6 cars got bump-stop extender plates (forget what year that started) to limit axle travel b/c of the 17" wheels I think. But even with a 1.25 inch drop on my car they are no where near "touching" on my car. I mean, those ones you have must literally be 6 inches long. Pix please. :-)

**SuperSSguy** · 10-06-2016, 11:07 PM

[QUOTE=35th-ANV-SS;2951749]I'll go on my own and say it has to do with those shocks are probably not valved correctly to work with the spring rate of the new lowering springs. The pinion angle being off is certainly a concern and will cause a misalignment of the yoke to the driveshaft under acceleration though. What you're describing is shock or spring related imo, or a combination of both.

**pajeff02** · 10-08-2016, 05:30 AM

I checked out pics of the bump stops Darren removed -- they did not look stock. I think a prior owner may have slapped them on. Here is a pic of a stock bump stop:

**DarrenWS6** · 11-05-2016, 09:05 AM

Sorry it has taken me some time to get photos posted. I always slack at stuff like that.

Here is a photo line of install progress.

The bump stops. I went with red to keep my inner child happy to see the bright colors.

The broken bump stop. Notice the rubber marking on the axle. I found the bump stop lodged into the steel brake line.

The lip we need to grind smooth.

Smoothed off.

Installed.

The pieces seemed off on balance so I used some grade 8 washers to balance out the angle.

And I of coarse painted after spraying, some BBQ black to match the color tone of the OE rubberized spray.

Here is a collage view of the changes. The only pic I had of the OE stop on the rear left. This is what was in my car. with the car lowered as it is and the new Energy bump stops I reached around to feel the clearance with my finger, I feel there is probably a half inch of clearance with the new stops. So these previous bump stops had to have been too long.

**DarrenWS6** · 11-05-2016, 09:15 AM

PaJeff and I also got my torque arm, relocation bracket, and new trans mount installed in later October. Everything dialed in and torqued to spec, and a pinion angle of -2.8. Car feels solid and planted now. I was worrysome about interior vibration with the new trans mount, but luckily in my case it is minimal to none. Then again I daily drive a Cobalt SS with cheap trans/engine poly mounts and it vibrates a bit. The shift knob has just a little vibration, floor boards don’t feel too aggressive either. Hopefully it all works for my car. It does feel much more solid and better built. Now I just need LCAs and relocation brackets and my suspension will be pretty well topped off aside of sway bars.

Before swap.

After.

Very happy with the outcome, and very thankful for PaJeff’s helping hand and garage lift.

**pajeff02** · 11-05-2016, 11:52 AM

Ready for "Round 2" once we get back from AZ.

**Zapper2003** · 11-05-2016, 04:56 PM

That's what she said!

***SMWS6TA*** · 11-08-2016, 11:58 AM

Originally Posted by DarrenWS6

PaJeff and I also got my torque arm, relocation bracket, and new trans mount installed in later October. Everything dialed in and torqued to spec, and a pinion angle of -2.8. Car feels solid and planted now. I was worrysome about interior vibration with the new trans mount, but luckily in my case it is minimal to none. Then again I daily drive a Cobalt SS with cheap trans/engine poly mounts and it vibrates a bit. The shift knob has just a little vibration, floor boards don’t feel too aggressive either. Hopefully it all works for my car. It does feel much more solid and better built. Now I just need LCAs and relocation brackets and my suspension will be pretty well topped off aside of sway bars.

Before swap.

After.

Very happy with the outcome, and very thankful for PaJeff’s helping hand and garage lift.

you got a leak...

**Whamhammer** · 11-08-2016, 01:08 PM

Originally Posted by DarrenWS6

Sorry it has taken me some time to get photos posted. I always slack at stuff like that.

Here is a photo line of install progress.

The bump stops. I went with red to keep my inner child happy to see the bright colors.

The broken bump stop. Notice the rubber marking on the axle. I found the bump stop lodged into the steel brake line.

The lip we need to grind smooth.

Smoothed off.

Installed.

The pieces seemed off on balance so I used some grade 8 washers to balance out the angle.

And I of coarse painted after spraying, some BBQ black to match the color tone of the OE rubberized spray.

Here is a collage view of the changes. The only pic I had of the OE stop on the rear left. This is what was in my car. with the car lowered as it is and the new Energy bump stops I reached around to feel the clearance with my finger, I feel there is probably a half inch of clearance with the new stops. So these previous bump stops had to have been too long.

Why is it that it seems everyone grinds off the the lip on the wheelhouse and tosses away the aluminum shim? I Dremeled my shim to fit the new stop and put it back on. Didn't they put on the shim so larger wheels won't scrape the wheelhouse?

***SMWS6TA*** · 11-08-2016, 01:44 PM

With those particular bump stops they are not originally made for our cars, IIRC they are for Jeeps. I have the AL spacer that had that lip and I had it milled off to accommodate those same bump stops.

Also using those is like $26 vs $100 for OEM style.

**Whamhammer** · 11-08-2016, 10:36 PM

Originally Posted by SMWS6TA

With those particular bump stops they are not originally made for our cars, IIRC they are for Jeeps. I have the AL spacer that had that lip and I had it milled off to accommodate those same bump stops.

Also using those is like $26 vs $100 for OEM style.

Yeah, I ground my spacer down like you did

**DarrenWS6** · 11-09-2016, 07:23 PM

Originally Posted by SMWS6TA

you got a leak...

Yep, best fix was the new torque arm. Cleaned it right up

Originally Posted by Whamhammer

Why is it that it seems everyone grinds off the the lip on the wheelhouse and tosses away the aluminum shim? I Dremeled my shim to fit the new stop and put it back on. Didn't they put on the shim so larger wheels won't scrape the wheelhouse?

I considered it, but after install and putting it back on its own weight, it feels like I only have a half inch of clearance from the new bump stop to the axle. So those shims added in would lessen my clearance even more.