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  1. #21
    Senior Member Whamhammer's Avatar
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    Bel Air, Maryland
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    1,675

    Silver
    '02 Trans Am WS-6, 6M

    Okay, so when I go with my SFCs, they are going to be weld in UMIs, whats a reasonable price range for install of those?
    SLP Air Lid/Smooth Bellows
    L76 6.0L block, PRC Ported 243 heads, Texas Speed 224R cam.
    Kooks Emissions LT Headers/Catted Y pipe
    NGK TR55 plugs
    Magnaflow Cat-back
    Spohn Front Upper Tubular Control Arms
    UMI Front Lower Tubular Control Arms
    UMI Front Sway Bar
    UMI Rear Lower Control Arms/ Adjustable Panhard Rod
    UMI Welded-on Two Piece Subframe Connectors
    Factory C5 Z06 17x9.5 wheels w/ 285-40-17 Continental Extreme Contact Sports all the way around.
    Dyno Dynamics dynoed @:
    415 rwhp

  2. #22
    Veteran pajeff02's Avatar
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    Black & Blue
    '02 WS.6 / '07 Suburban

    Can't image they would take long to zip in once in place. I would hope $150 or less.

  3. #23
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Navy Blue Metallic
    98 T/A w/ mods, 00 FBVert

    What to do next?

    mine cost $60 for flat rate it took less than 30 mins
    http://www.ls1.com/forums/f7/my-6-liter-build-174257/

    http://www.ls1.com/forums/f8/my-8-8-rear-build-165553/

    6.0L Block - Forged 403ci , Polluter Stg3 Cam, FAST 102mm Intake, NW102 TB, MSD wires, NGK TR6 plugs, Truck Coil Packs, LS3 Fuel Injectors, CC Pacesetter LT Headers, TS&P ORY, QTP e-Cutout, Magnaflow Muffler, 104mm Air Lid & Line Lock, Catch Can, Stage 2 T56 w/Viper shaft, PRO 5.0 Shifter, Tick MC, SPEC Stg3+ Clutch, QT SFI BH, MWC DSL, Full UMI Performance Suspension, Belstein Shocks, Hotchkis Springs (1" Drop), YR1 Snowflake Wheels wrapped in NT555 tires & Custom Fab Ford 8.8 rear w/Wavetrac Diff 3.73 Yukon Gears, WSQ Hood, 3"CM Strange Eng Drive Shaft.

    00 FB Vert - Stock

    78 FB - Just getting started......

    Horsepower never lies, but is often lied about!

  4. #24
    Veteran 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    Red
    02 35th LE Camaro SS

    I'd say that around $100 or so sounds right. It will depend on the shop rate and location. The important thing is to ensure the person doing it is a quality welder.

    Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
    Boost gets you laid, unless your name is Jon.

  5. #25
    Member Since 1998 Mecinoid's Avatar
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    May 2007
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    Livermore, Ca.
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    500
    '98,'00-B 93,03,11,14-V

    So tell me guys .... Did you have your SFC welded in loaded or unloaded condition?
    Life comes at you fast. Grab it and hold onto it with all your might.

    Living life in the fast lane. 182IDIE


  6. #26
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Navy Blue Metallic
    98 T/A w/ mods, 00 FBVert

    You must have them welded while the car suspension is loaded

  7. #27
    Senior Member Naaman's Avatar
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    Mar 2010
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    AZ
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    1,480

    Cayanne
    98 Z28 Vert M6

    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    Thanks Jeff but I plan on getting Bilstein's for front & rear or even go for Vikings for the rear.

    Not sure if I want to invest in Kono's...
    I have Bilstiens in the back, Koni's up front. The Bilstiens are shot. Koni's still running strong. Bilsteins may be good for what they are, but... I wish they were Konis. In reality, I'd prefer to throw the KWV3s on my car... but I need to replace those Bilstiens ASAP, so Konis it is, for me.
    Lid, Throttle Body, LS6 Intake, Heads, Cam, Magnaflow, LS7 Clutch, SFCs, STB, Panhard Bar, Strano Springs, Hollow Sway Bars, Poly/Roto LCAs, Konis, MGW Shifter

  8. #28
    Member Since 1998 Mecinoid's Avatar
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    May 2007
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    Livermore, Ca.
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    500
    '98,'00-B 93,03,11,14-V

    I was thinking Dual Koni's would be the way to go. I do not see any electronic adjustables for our cars. I'd like Mag Ride like the Corvette but, tuning it to a Firebird might cost way too much. I am happy with custom valved Bilstiens but, may pop for Dual Koni's (Yellow) soon. How are the KYB AGX shocks..... Are they any good? I think the Koni's are better but, perhaps the KYB will give me the adj ability I need at a price I can swallow.

    Wow - $2600 Dual Koni don't look so bad now. Below is a picture of the KWV3:



    Dual Adjustable Koni's with Pro Line Springs ...... $1058



    KYB then use stock spring.... I do like it's present height for $380



    Hard to know what is right here.... I hear plus and minus on them all.....
    Last edited by Mecinoid; 09-20-2016 at 11:13 PM.

  9. #29
    Senior Member Naaman's Avatar
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    Cayanne
    98 Z28 Vert M6

    Over at 'Tech, Sam Strano has given a lot of input on shock comparisons. Other than the KWs, he says that Konis are the end-all of shocks for our cars. For coilovers, it's KWs or nothing, from what I gathered.

    I personally would like the KWs for the adjustability as well as the performance. If it ever makes sense for me to upgrade, then I probably will, but other stuff is far higher on the priority list at the moment.

  10. #30
    Veteran 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    Red
    02 35th LE Camaro SS

    KYB = Keeps You Bouncing

    Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

  11. #31
    Member DarrenWS6's Avatar
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    Blossburg, PA
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    34
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    472

    Silver Metallic
    2000 Trans Am WS6

    If you go with Koni shocks, I like my Eibach Prokit springs. Very clean stance and reduced body roll.

    I saw on facebook the other day UMI is introducing a lowering spring set for our cars for about $300. Specs I do not know, but release will be soon. And the stance would be about the same as my Prokit's, 1.5" roughly.

    Quote Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS View Post
    KYB = Keeps You Bouncing

    Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk



    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post

    I'm going for a full supension up grade. So far I have all from UMI:

    2pt SFC's weld in
    Full length adjustable Torque Arm
    Transmission cross member that takes the torque arm off the tail cone.
    LCA's - single adjustable with roto-joints
    Pan Hard bar - adjustable with roto-joints.

    MWC - driveshaft safety loop. (This one is by far the best one out there in regarding design.)
    Sounds like I am doing good so far. I have all of the above except LCAs and LCA re-location brackets. Apparently UMI recommends the relocation brackets on OEM stamped LCA even. I am unsure of whether to do roto-joints or not. I would probably just do poly/poly and adjustable. I don't have weld-in units however, more comfortable with bolt-in. I will give that DSL a look.
    2000 Trans Am WS.6 M6

    SLP lid & bellow w/ K&N, GMMG catback w/ Corsa Clones, UMI SFC, UMI Adj. Panhard, UMI Adj. TQ arm w/ relocation kit, QTP Longtube headers ORY, LS6 intake, EGR/A.I.R delete.
    Eibach prokit, Bilstein HDs, Nitto NT555s, skip shift elim, whiteface overlays, 20% tint, matte black decal/overlays
    YouTube.com/DarrenWS6

  12. #32
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Navy Blue Metallic
    98 T/A w/ mods, 00 FBVert

    Some ppl complain about the roto joints. Not me, been very satisfied with mine. Of course I have plans for mine. The relocation brackets really do help on wheel hop, in fact I haven't had any since I've installed them.

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