What to do next?

[Whamhammer]

So, I have more power that will keep me happy for a bit, and I figure its time to give more attention to handling. I am either gonng to do some UMI weld-on SFC's or UMI upper and lower control arms next.

I know SFC's are a must have but the front suspension is 145k miles and almost 14 years old (and those bushings gotta be shot, ya think?).

Anybody got suggestions?

[SMWS6TA]

The SFC's are a good 1st step, followed by LCA's and Torque Arm.

For the front upper and lowers at min, along with the front sway bar. Those are the minimal suggestions I would recommend.



I'm going for a full supension up grade. So far I have all from UMI:

2pt SFC's weld in
Full length adjustable Torque Arm
Transmission cross member that takes the torque arm off the tail cone.
LCA's - single adjustable with roto-joints
Pan Hard bar - adjustable with roto-joints.

MWC - driveshaft safety loop. (This one is by far the best one out there in regarding design.)

I still need all of the front stuff plus their K member. and need to make a decision on whether to invest in a Watts Link or stay with the PHB.

[Whamhammer]

The SFC's are a good 1st step, followed by LCA's and Torque Arm.

For the front upper and lowers at min, along with the front sway bar. Those are the minimal suggestions I would recommend.



I'm going for a full supension up grade. So far I have all from UMI:

2pt SFC's weld in
Full length adjustable Torque Arm
Transmission cross member that takes the torque arm off the tail cone.
LCA's - single adjustable with roto-joints
Pan Hard bar - adjustable with roto-joints.

MWC - driveshaft safety loop. (This one is by far the best one out there in regarding design.)

I still need all of the front stuff plus their K member. and need to make a decision on whether to invest in a Watts Link or stay with the PHB.

I do have rr LCA's (non-adjustable) and an adjustable panhard rod, I do wish that I had known about the Watts link before I did the panhard though. I'd love a tubular K member but that might only come if I stay with the 346 block and the bottom end is spic-and-span clean.

When I go SFC's, I am going three point weld on's but theres also that whole 145k and 14 years old worth of rubber bushings up front.

[raynor139]

The SFC's are a good 1st step, followed by LCA's and Torque Arm.

For the front upper and lowers at min, along with the front sway bar. Those are the minimal suggestions I would recommend.



I'm going for a full supension up grade. So far I have all from UMI:

2pt SFC's weld in
Full length adjustable Torque Arm
Transmission cross member that takes the torque arm off the tail cone.
LCA's - single adjustable with roto-joints
Pan Hard bar - adjustable with roto-joints.

MWC - driveshaft safety loop. (This one is by far the best one out there in regarding design.)

I still need all of the front stuff plus their K member. and need to make a decision on whether to invest in a Watts Link or stay with the PHB.

I do have rr LCA's (non-adjustable) and an adjustable panhard rod, I do wish that I had known about the Watts link before I did the panhard though. I'd love a tubular K member but that might only come if I stay with the 346 block and the bottom end is spic-and-span clean.

When I go SFC's, I am going three point weld on's but theres also that whole 145k and 14 years old worth of rubber bushings up front.

I originally wasn't going to but I started thinking about the 14 yr old bushings too and decided to do a arms while was installing the shocks and springs. Of course I only was going to spend a couple thousand this year but at the rate I'm going it will be closer to 5k. Swear start with one or two things and it snowballs every year.....

[SMWS6TA]

tell me about it....

I swear everytime I look at it I find more crap....

[pajeff02]

Scott - I still have my 75,000 mile stock front shocks if you are interested. No leaks and super clean.

I would look at the bushings and see if they are cracked and busting out of the shell. With the front end in the air, you can also strategically pry on things to see how much movement the bushings have.

[SMWS6TA]

Thanks Jeff but I plan on getting Bilstein's for front & rear or even go for Vikings for the rear.

Not sure if I want to invest in Kono's...

[Whamhammer]

Scott - I still have my 75,000 mile stock front shocks if you are interested. No leaks and super clean.

I would look at the bushings and see if they are cracked and busting out of the shell. With the front end in the air, you can also strategically pry on things to see how much movement the bushings have.

I keep forgetting that theres more than one Scott active on these forums. Got cornfuzed there for a minute. 😄

[Whamhammer]

I originally wasn't going to but I started thinking about the 14 yr old bushings too and decided to do a arms while was installing the shocks and springs. Of course I only was going to spend a couple thousand this year but at the rate I'm going it will be closer to 5k. Swear start with one or two things and it snowballs every year.....

I know what you mean. I have a list of items that I am planning to upgrade, so I can forecast what I am really am going to need when I do upgrade everything, I do a .5 labor dollar to 1 parts dollar to keep a better perspective of costs.

Thats one of the reasons why I am looking at either the front control arms or the SFC's because I will end up doing both sooner or later.

[pajeff02]

Thanks Jeff but I plan on getting Bilstein's for front & rear or even go for Vikings for the rear.

Not sure if I want to invest in Kono's...

Sorry, that was directed to the other Scott in this thread.

[Whamhammer]

Sorry, that was directed to the other Scott in this thread.

No worries, now if those were front springs you were talking about...

[pajeff02]

I reused my stock springs -- not going to lower the car.

[35th-ANV-SS]

I have both front/rear OEM springs. Took them off the car at 12k miles. They're basically new.

[Whamhammer]

I have both front/rear OEM springs. Took them off the car at 12k miles. They're basically new.

If your looking to sell, I'm interested, are they 1LE's? PM me how much you want to sell them for.

[35th-ANV-SS]

I need to look into that 1LE question

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[Whamhammer]

I need to look into that 1LE question

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I don't think it will show on the GM Build Sheet/RPO Codes as it was an SLP option but the SLP build info should have it.

[35th-ANV-SS]

And I get that from where? SLP doesn't have any records anymore is the rumor.

All I currently have is the birth certificate, my window sticker, all ppw given to me, and my Chevrolet manual. Nothing that states SLP options that I know of.

[35th-ANV-SS]

Maybe a part number on the spring? Isn't the 1LE a lowering spring?

[Whamhammer]

Maybe a part number on the spring? Isn't the 1LE a lowering spring?

The 1LE is a progressive rate spring, last I remember, it shouldn't lower the ride height at all.
I will check out the SLP site and see if they mention an old pn.

[Whamhammer]

The 1LE is a progressive rate spring, last I remember, it shouldn't lower the ride height at all.
I will check out the SLP site and see if they mention an old pn.

Couldnt find a p/n but did find out the fronts are linear eate and the rears are progressive rares. Apparently, the 1LEs had a larger sway bar kit too.