New alt and PS delete

[Decadence75]

So I replaced my PS pump about a year and a half ago and it's already leaking, killing another alt. I've decided that I am just going to delete the PS and loop the rack until I can afford to put a manual rack in. I was wondering about what alt I should go with.

Should I just grab one off something like an escalade in the local pull a part, or go with this power master from summit?

2000 PONTIAC FIREBIRD Powermaster Street Alternators 58242 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing

Thanks all.

[SMWS6TA]

OR.....


Read this....I went thru 3 Alternators in 18 months, Haven't had one issue since doing this.

http://www.ls1.com/forums/f63/altern...on-kit-178833/

[Decadence75]

OR.....


Read this....I went thru 3 Alternators in 18 months, Haven't had one issue since doing this.

http://www.ls1.com/forums/f63/altern...on-kit-178833/

My catch can currently occupies that space. Though I suppose I could re-locate that to somewhere else. I was thinking an added bonus to the delete would be to clear up some room in the bay. Not to mention it doesn't address that pumps keep leaking. Those issues aside, what is your opinion on alt choice?

[SMWS6TA]

It's been great since I've relocated it. My one and only grip is you need to use crow's feet loosen/tighten the tensioning arm. I also run a catch can and relocated mine to where the tcs would normally sit if I had one (I do not). I also run my catch can hoses thru the bracket to clear the belt.


Regarding the PS leak...have you figure out where it's leaking? 90% of the time it's due to the o rings crushed or torn. There is also a o-ring between the reservoir and the pump that does fail over time.

I also recommend getting the Turn-One pulley to replace the stock one. Once installed you'll never need a pulley puller again, unless you need to swap out a pump, to pull the ps pump off. There are cut outs that let's you access the bolts. Another favorite mod I did.

I also have a how to thread in the tech threads on how to fix it.



You can get a manual rack and delete the ps pump but they are very costly. Plus now it makes it a bitch to turn at low speeds/from park.

[Decadence75]

It's been great since I've relocated it. My one and only grip is you need to use crow's feet loosen/tighten the tensioning arm. I also run a catch can and relocated mine to where the tcs would normally sit if I had one (I do not). I also run my catch can hoses thru the bracket to clear the belt.


Regarding the PS leak...have you figure out where it's leaking? 90% of the time it's due to the o rings crushed or torn. There is also a o-ring between the reservoir and the pump that does fail over time.

I also recommend getting the Turn-One pulley to replace the stock one. Once installed you'll never need a pulley puller again, unless you need to swap out a pump, to pull the ps pump off. There are cut outs that let's you access the bolts. Another favorite mod I did.

I also have a how to thread in the tech threads on how to fix it.



You can get a manual rack and delete the ps pump but they are very costly. Plus now it makes it a bitch to turn at low speeds/from park.

How much of a pain was it to relocate the alt exciter wire? I haven't tracked down the source of the leak on the current pump. It is a reman unit I picked up from rock auto a couple years ago. Once I get the alt sorted out I'll put some uv dye in the ps system and see where it's coming from.

Yea, I saw that the madman rack was a little on the pricey side. Folks using it were saying that it has a different gear ratio than the power one allowing it easier turning from a stop. Though it's money that could be put to better use of course.

[SMWS6TA]

This is strange, I had a semi long reply and it disappeared...so I'll try again.


Thin wire - It wasn't too hard to relocate. You just need to peel it back from the wire loom till you get to where it branches off near #8 cyl in the harness, then re-install it in the passenger side of the loom. Once you get close just wrap up the excess with some electrical tape and tuck it inside the loom.

Thick Wire - It is connected along the radiator support, just remove it from there and reroute it up along the the inside fender wall where the ac comes up and reconnect to the alternator once in place.

The only hard part is getting it off the drivers side without breaking the thin wire.

You will also need to trim down the alternator cooling vent like I did in the thread and twist the oil fill tube a little for clearance. To me the only major PITA is using the crow's feet. But after a few times you'll get use to it. Once it's locked in no worries about slack. The FI guys like it too because it removes the potential slack that a tensioner can give when you let off a hard pull.

This kit looks costly but IMHO it's saved me $$$ that I wish I could kick the engineer that designed the OEM set up in nuts. Placing a potential leaky pump over a critical electronic component was just stupid.


I agree on the Madman rack - $$ better spent on other things.


Check out my PS pump thread. I show where the common leaks are on the PS pump. Not a hard thing to rebuild, just messy.

[Decadence75]

Thanks for the replies. I appreciate it. I've looked at the CBR re location before. Never new they were in MS. Almost worth it to ride down Ã*nd pick up the kit.

I've emailed them about the power master alt fitting. Though I'm gonna try to blast my current one heavily with contact cleaner to see if it comes back alive.

[Decadence75]

Also, the thin wire is my only concern. I have the big three upgrade kit from innovation that I will be putting at the same time.

[Decadence75]

Pulled the trigger and ordered the kit. Thanks for the replies and advice.

[Decadence75]

Those guys at CBR are great. Johnny on the spot responding to e-mails and I already have the relocation kit in my hand less than 24 hours after ordering it.

[SMWS6TA]

Told ya'.....


He was very helpful when I did mine. If you have any questions on the install hit me up. Remember to use crow's feet, 9/16" IIRC


You did order the belt too? It is a different size.

[Decadence75]

Told ya'.....


He was very helpful when I did mine. If you have any questions on the install hit me up. Remember to use crow's feet, 9/16" IIRC


You did order the belt too? It is a different size.

Will do, thanks! Didn't order the belt, he said it wouldn't work with a UD pulley so I'll need to measure and pick one up locally. Just need to decide if I want to try and resurrect the current alt or just order the power master.

[SMWS6TA]

Ahh didn't know you had an UD. How does it effect the alt charge output? I've heard there can be issues using the UD.

I would crack open the alt case and see just how bad it is. You can get rebuild kits cheaper then a new/reman one. But you got to put them back together correctly.


One thing I wish on the relocate kit was that you could change the powder coating color when you order it. When the time comes to dress up the engine bay I may do it with the valve covers.

[Decadence75]

Ahh didn't know you had an UD. How does it effect the alt charge output? I've heard there can be issues using the UD.

I've been running a 145 amp truck alt for a few years now and never had any issues. Although I don't have a bunch of electronics drawing much current other than a 3 gauge pillar pod. I have plans on putting in a bangin stereo later down the road which is why I was thinking about that 165 amp power master. Even though I have a UD pulley I would think that the extra power generation of a higher amp alt would compensate. I think most of the people having issues were those with the stock 105. Although if I did have some issues I could always toss a slight OD pulley onto the alt itself to make it spin faster.

I would crack open the alt case and see just how bad it is. You can get rebuild kits cheaper then a new/reman one. But you got to put them back together correctly.

I've never torn into an alt before, might not be worth it since it was an o'reilly reman to start with. Might be a fun project to play with and get some learning experience though for the heck of it.

One thing I wish on the relocate kit was that you could change the powder coating color when you order it. When the time comes to dress up the engine bay I may do it with the valve covers.

I could have sworn that when they first came out with that kit several years ago that a thread on LS1Tech had them saying that color options were being offered at an additional price. Wasn't a mention of it on the order page though.

[Decadence75]

Go figure... Last weekend, I charged up the battery, put it back in the car and it's been driving fine all week. I don't know if it sitting for the last several months dried up the PS fluid on the alt or it was just a snafu. Still gonna do the relocation with the new alt when I get some free time but it's definitely nice to be able to drive her again after about 6 months. Soooo many projects and so little free time.