Thinking about getting the Tick performance master cylinder

**Zamuel** · 05-30-2015, 11:07 PM

I can probably do it. Aslong as i got all the stuff needed before I do it. I can't do it at home, but must drive away to a place first, so as soon as I start, I must be able to finish it the same day so I can drive home again.

On Ticks order website, there is an option to include GM quick disconnect tool for $5. Is it this tool you were talking about? Not that $50 box the link above was showing?

GM T56 Clutch Line Quick Disconnect Tool - Tick Performance, Inc.

**Naaman** · 05-31-2015, 12:34 AM

**Zamuel** · 05-31-2015, 01:17 AM

Thanks for the link to that video. It didn't look to hard to do. I thought that when you disconnect everything, a lot of fluid would come out, but it looked like it was more or less dry when he did it.
Is it much easier to use that special tool to get the hose off from the slave cylinder instead of using two screwdrivers as he did? I don't want to risk break anything.

***SMWS6TA*** · 05-31-2015, 04:34 AM

I've only used the 2 screw driver method. Takes about 30 secs for me but I've had lots of practice dropping transmissions.

**kingls1** · 05-31-2015, 06:29 AM

Originally Posted by Zamuel

On Ticks order website, there is an option to include GM quick disconnect tool for $5. Is it this tool you were talking about? Not that $50 box the link above was showing?

GM T56 Clutch Line Quick Disconnect Tool - Tick Performance, Inc.

Yep get the tool from Tick, I did its metal and works perfect. Sometimes the plastic ones give you a little trouble but still work. And for $5 you can't go wrong.

**Zamuel** · 05-31-2015, 06:59 AM

Yes $5 for something that is helpfull is not a big deal. I read somethere that the bleeder nut needs to be opened before trying to remove the hose from the slave cylinder. I guess it's under preasure so it is difficult to remove.
Is the mityvac a good investment? I read someone who used it for the tick mc and thought the system was bleeded, but checked the bleeder screw anyway and got out some air, so the mityvac wasn't 100%
Should the MC be filled with fluid before installed in the car? If this helps anything?

**kingls1** · 05-31-2015, 10:58 AM

Yes a Mighty vac is worth it, here is all you need Mity Vac Vacuum Pump Brake Bleeder Kit MV8000 | eBay. I replaced my whole system MC, Slave, and clutch and just added fluid and began bleeding process with vac. Worked at it for a while to insure all air was bleed out and test drove. Had more of a issue adjusting the clutch pedal for the right release point than I did with bleeding. There is always a chance for air to become trapped but if you are patient and take your time ( do it on a day when you have the whole day) you should be ok.

**Zamuel** · 05-31-2015, 01:42 PM

I saw that there is another mity vac kit, the MV8500 for more or less the same amount of money. Is that a better one? Looks like it got a nice box to it, which is handy, but maybe that is included for the other one to

**kingls1** · 05-31-2015, 04:46 PM

Mine came in a box so not exactly sure what model it is but yea that would be a good one. I got mine two years ago. Box is nice to keep everything together for when you need it.

**Zamuel** · 06-01-2015, 12:43 PM

I ordered the mity vac and a tick cylinder, so let's see how it goes when I get the stuff

Another thing I saw when I checked under the hood after I was driving. The brake fluid reservoir is wet on the outside and I could hear a fizzing sound from it, so I guess it's brake fluid that came out. What can cause this? Maybe I should replace the fluid? (The mighty vac might be handy for this to). It's a few years old, but hasn't much mileage on it. The brakes works as they should so nothing is wrong with that.

**Firebirdjones** · 06-02-2015, 04:53 AM

Originally Posted by Zamuel

Thanks for the link to that video. It didn't look to hard to do. I thought that when you disconnect everything, a lot of fluid would come out, but it looked like it was more or less dry when he did it.Is it much easier to use that special tool to get the hose off from the slave cylinder instead of using two screwdrivers as he did? I don't want to risk break anything.

You won't get fluid out there because that line has a one way check valve in the end of it that is spring loaded. And that is the key to getting air out of the system.

Alot of people miss this little trick but it saves a ton of time and doesn't require a mity vac. It's so simple.

After you have your master installed and filled with fluid, leave this main line disconnected at the trans, it doesn't leak, it has a check valve in it. All you have to do is put the line in a container to catch fluid, stick a small screw driver inside the line to release the check ball and let some fluid gravity bleed out of the line. Refill reservoir if needed and repeat. Only takes a few seconds. Then connect the line to the trans.

From there the only air left in the system is at the slave in the trans. You can simply pump the pedal (gives my son something to do

) just a few times, hold the pedal down and crack the bleeder screw. Shut the bleeder screw and your done. Extremely simple.

I can bleed the line as I described above, reconnect, then pump the pedal and crack the bleeder screw once, maybe twice, and I'm done with the whole process in less than 2 mintues with no mity vac that needs thoroughly cleaned afterwards. I have 2 mity vacs, I never use the darn things. Don't want to clean them afterwards. This bleed process is quick and simple with very little fluid loss, as long as you bleed the check valve line first before connecting it, that's the key.

If you don't utilize the little "check valve in the line" trick I described above, you'll be at this system for 30 minutes to an hour pumping the crap out of the pedal trying to get all the air out of it and making a big mess in the process.

**az gt eater** · 06-04-2015, 08:50 PM

I am not about to disagree with Firebird, but I know what worked for me. Congrats on buying a mity vac. It will come in handy to do brake bleeding, too.

**Firebirdjones** · 06-05-2015, 06:38 AM

If there is one thing I'll use that mity vac for it's for bleeding the brakes just as you mentioned. I do alot of fresh restorations here and the last thing I want when bleeding brakes is brake fluid running down all the freshly painted and plated suspension parts. To keep things clean and neat I'll use the mity vac.

**Zamuel** · 08-06-2015, 02:30 AM

I have just installed the Tick master and just needs to bleed the system. I did benchbleed it as good as possible before I installed it. I know tried to use the mityvac that I bought and I get bubbles. After a while when there are no more bubbles I release the vacuum and presses the clutch pedal several times. After this I put the mityvac in again and I get a lot of bubbles. I have been doing this for a while now and it seems the bubbles never stopes. As soon as it looks ok and I press the clutch, more comes out.
Also if the bubbles seems to be gone and I increase the vacuum preasure a little more, a lot of more bubbles comes out. This will take several hours I think, unless something is wrong so air get's in somehone?

When I press the clutch pedal it feels ok I guess, it comes up from the floor so not that it's stays down or so, which I guess it might do if there are to much air in the system, but I'm not sure I would dare to drive it. I still have to adjust the pedal and since it's now at it's shortest position I guess it might be difficult to bleed the system because of that?
Should I try and adjust it and run the vehicle and continue with the bleeding after or should it work even when the pedal is as it is now?

**Zamuel** · 08-08-2015, 02:28 PM

I did the bleeding the traditional way with the slave cylinder bleeder screw and it seems to be fine now. I don't understand were the Mityvac got the air from. It sucked a steady stream of air for an entire day. I can't imagine there can be that much air even in an empty system!

I adjusted the Tick according to the instruction and it seems to be working. The engagement point is very close to the top of the pedal so it feels a bit strange at first. Is this how it is intended to be or can be adjusted? With a normal clutch cylinder, the engagement point is somewhere in the middle of the pedal travel so when it engage I still have to let the pedal up a few cm more before I take my foot of. Now, as soon as it engage, the pedal won't go higher. I guess it's good for fast shifts if it's this way.