Serpentine Belt PT# for set-up minus PS...

**SSwt00SS** · 07-28-2013, 06:47 AM

I've scoured 3 different car sites and none seem to have a consistent definitive answer, so here goes my request for info...

I'm running the following setup: EWP and ASP U/D pulley with full accessories. Belt goes around all pullies. Running all new belt (for current setup), tensioner pulley and idler pulley. Disregard A/C since it runs off a separate belt and is disconnected.

Now, for the sake of conversation, let's remove the PS. If I keep the idler pulley with length belt do I need? If I remove the idler pulley, then what length belt would I need? Part numbers for both options?

No need to ask for reasons why (in theory) PS is being removed, as that is not critical to the point of the thread.

This is all about belt length running a setup with an EWP, U/D pulley without PS. Thanks.

**transamtom** · 07-29-2013, 04:30 AM

Run a piece of string around your pulley route and measure its length.

That gets you the length the only other thing the parts store needs is the amount of grooves and they can pick you out your belt.

***SMWS6TA*** · 07-29-2013, 07:58 AM

^^this

**SSwt00SS** · 07-29-2013, 09:41 AM

ok, that makes sense to attempt.

my only question: would you compensate (if necessary) for the belt length to be under tension on the tensioner pulley with no belt on? just get the overall (non-tensioned) and take out an inch or so?

not sure if it's possible to string it with the current belt on. thanks.

***SMWS6TA*** · 07-29-2013, 10:11 AM

based on the string measurement the parts shop can match up to the belt size you need. They should be able to have on very close. I would subtract maybe an inch to compensate for the tensioner.

**SSwt00SS** · 08-10-2013, 10:50 AM

Ordered a Goodyear Gatorback belt to see if it cures what ails.

**SSwt00SS** · 08-19-2013, 05:24 AM

Follow up: Installed a 76" Goodyear Gatorback belt (retaining all pullies), and no more issues. Apparently, even with double checking and replacing pullies, belt, etc., the car caught a case of 'sqeaky serpentine belt' syndrome. It was insanely terrible sounding on a cold start until the car warmed up, but anything over 1500rpm, it would start up again.

After logging about 60 miles, and 5-6 cold starts, the chirping sound is completely gone and the issue resolved (hopefully to never return)...

Very pleased as I was told by a 'tech' that the P/S pump/pulley were bad and needed to be replaced. Thankfully that was not the case and the headache from having to spend more money and time was avoided.

**transamtom** · 08-19-2013, 02:12 PM

Sometimes its the idler pulleys,I pulled all mine removed the covers with a small pick and a tiny screwdriver and re-greased the bearings.

3 of the 4 were dry and possibly on the way to failure soon.

Here is a how to guide:

Sorry I didn't know.

Had to remove link, against rules of forum. You can send it to him in a pm.

**SSwt00SS** · 08-20-2013, 04:37 AM

TATom, I did that to both the tensioner pulley and idler pulley before replacing them. and yes, both were 'dry'. I repacked using high-temp wheel bearing grease. Thank you though for the suggestion. I always try the free route before having to spend the $$$.