My 2000 SS project

[blackcar]

I put a jumper in on the fuel pump relay and the pump kicked on. Tried to start the car with the jumper in and no go. Where I put the jumper should have been the constant hot and the one that goes to the pump. The other two pins should be ground and the signal, right?? Both of them read 0 with the key off, but read 8 volts with the key on.

BTW when I had the key on for while the ignition relay is getting warm so I would guess it was getting power.

[blackcar]

Checked where the ignition relay goes. It is getting 12 volts to the signal wire. Why would the fuel pump relay only get 8??

[Zapper2003]

IIRC, my 97 fuel pump relay signal wire was a 5v wire. I had a broken wire somewhere between the PCM and the relay, so I cut the wire near the PCM connector, and near the relay, and ran a new one. No problem after that.

[blackcar]

Zapper thanks for the idea, but I can jump the relay out and hear the pump come on and still no start.

There is more info in this thread >>http://www.ls1.com/forums/f6/i-need-...-start-165849/

[blackcar]

Also I'm getting 8 on the ground side, too???

[Zapper2003]

I'm not entirely sure, man. Sounds like during the teardown/install something got pinched and grounded out.

[blackcar]

I think I'm going to try the VATs bypass.

[tatertot91]

Does the security light come on when you turn the key?

[blackcar]

The security light has been on constant for months. I had a small issue with the hatch lid and it come on then and never went off.

[tatertot91]

Mine does that too but never gave me a problem starting. Vats sounds like a good place to start though

[blackcar]

Been almost a month and haven't had a chance to get the thing running. I'm really starting to miss it and I want to hear the open headers. I was going to get out there the weekend after my last post and see if I could get it lined out, but I broke my hand that Saturday. The following week the little time I have after work I spent getting ready for our vacation. Then left out the Saturday before Memorial day for vacation. Just got back Sunday. Of course while getting ready to go on vacation the washing machine took a dump. I've got the parts ordered to fix it and I'm really hoping they do not come in untill next week. That way I can spend the weekend getting the car running (one handed). I'm going to get out there tonight and at least check for spark.

[blackcar]

#121

I got it running again.

[blackcar]

I got everything running right and the car back on the ground over the weekend. Hopefully this week I can get it to the shop to get the headers tied to the Y-pipe. I think I had said earlier in this thread that it had an after market catback. But after spending so much time under the car and learning more on here I think it is the SLP exhaust. I knew the center mount tips were a SLP thing but I think the whole exhaust is.

It's fun learning new stuff about the car. The previous owner didn't know much about it.

[blackcar]

Still haven't done a lot of the restoration I wanted to do. Life just keeps my busy.

But I'm about to do some work to the drive's side (possible both sides). The window has always been crooked. The back would be all the way up and there would be a gap in the front. Well it is getting bad enough now it is starting to leak a little. I'm guessing the regulator is the problem, the window motor is not in good shape, and the tint on the window looks horrible. I still have the door from my other car. It is the same color and the window motor, regulator, and tint are all in great shape.

Now do I replace the whole door or pull the glass, motor, and regulator from the donor door?

[pajeff02]

Swapping the door is probably easier than playing with the regulator and such.

[blackcar]

That is the way I'm leaning. But changing the door out is not as easy as it sounds. Getting all the electrical connections loose and out the door is not going to be easy

[GTP231]

Regulators are a pain in the ass

[SMWS6TA]

I bet it's the same issue I'm having. It's not the tracking it. There is a spot on the door that the motor is rivet to the door that if like mine, the hole has elongated allowing the front of the window to sag. I'm looking into a better fix then this.