What did you do with your Trans Am today?

**BobbyGFirebird** · 02-25-2016, 12:34 PM

do your cars have this little wire on the back right side (driveshaft hump side) of the Driver seat? Must be one on Pass. too if its seatbelt ? Phew... I'm not too worried about it now. :-)

**raynor139** · 02-25-2016, 03:06 PM

Spring koni sale needs to hurry up and start. Probably pick up a new torque arm at the same time. Also debating getting new seat covers and other interior items to fix up worn out parts (that drive me up a wall during car show season) or getting more go fast parts.

**pajeff02** · 02-25-2016, 06:27 PM

^^ Tough choice. Curious as to what seat covers you would consider?

**raynor139** · 02-25-2016, 08:56 PM

Looking at Lethal Interiors and calling some local shops to see on prices. Few other sites you can get covers from but they are mostly just reproductions of the original stuff in cheap synthetic leather materials. Pretty darn cheap for them but id rather go custom. Other thing im considering is just replacing the seats all together. Dont feel like going with any crazy expensive race seats so im looking at stuff in the $1000-1500 range. Started looking at Recaros and other brands but you have to spend alot for good looking stuff that ill never use fully. 6LE has seats that you can buy and get done in custom leather thats in the price range i wanna stay in. One is a replica of the Z28 recaros.

**raynor139** · 02-25-2016, 09:48 PM

Looking at Corbeau seats too. Little more then I wanna spend but may be worth it more in the long run if i decide to go that route instead of just replacing the covers.

**pajeff02** · 02-26-2016, 03:29 AM

As I recall, both Summit and Jegs have some good looking seats that sort of fit our style. More importantly, they are not priced into the stratosphere.

Link: Sport Seats at Summit Racing

**Decadence75** · 02-26-2016, 04:54 AM

Year one has covers but as you said, they are vinyl. Don't really know about the quality of them but they usually carry quality pieces don't they?

**raynor139** · 02-26-2016, 11:14 AM

Ordered new torque arm and pieces to replace the rod ends and old bushings in my pan hard and lower control arms. Hard to believe the things are over 7 years old and after living most that time as a daily driver they are showing it, you can see some fatigue in the bushings. Decided to replace them with new stuff since its basically a weekend toy now. Still thinking on the seats.

**Decadence75** · 02-26-2016, 03:09 PM

That reminds me, I need to grease my LCAs.

**pajeff02** · 02-27-2016, 04:09 AM

Originally Posted by Decadence75

That reminds me, I need to grease my LCAs.

I have been using synthetic caliper grease on suspension components. It is a lot "stickier" than plain old grease and seems to best approximate the grease that you get when you buy a set of polyurethane bushings.

**RONS98TA** · 02-27-2016, 05:22 AM

Drove my TA to work yesterday. I forgot how much fun it was to drive a 500+ rwhp car to work! Just a quick snap of the throttle and I was going light speed!! All the way up to said speed limit. LOL

**Decadence75** · 02-27-2016, 05:39 AM

Originally Posted by pajeff02

I have been using synthetic caliper grease on suspension components. It is a lot "stickier" than plain old grease and seems to best approximate the grease that you get when you buy a set of polyurethane bushings.

Cool, I'll pick some up. I been using regular old red moly grease with each oil change. But the ole girl sat for about six months lately and it prolly need doing. Along with an oil change. I only have the 2 fittings to lube. My LCAs are poly/rod with the PHB being rod/rod.

**pajeff02** · 02-27-2016, 06:02 AM

Sorry - the synthetic caliper grease only comes in a container with a brush. I pull the bolt, drop the arm, and then coat the ends of the bushing with grease as that is where most noises emanate from. For grease fittings you'll have to stick with your original game plan.

**Decadence75** · 02-27-2016, 06:06 AM

Originally Posted by pajeff02

Sorry - the synthetic caliper grease only comes in a container with a brush. I pull the bolt, drop the arm, and then coat the ends of the bushing with grease as that is where most noises emanate from. For grease fittings you'll have to stick with your original game plan.

Doh! Now I have to devise a way to put caliper grease in a compression tube, muhaha

**BobbyGFirebird** · 02-27-2016, 07:30 AM

Scratched my alloy wheel rim on psycho-curb! How / where fix? Was pulling into a muni park lot for a lunch i didnt even want go to, and bizarre tight turn into entrance ramp and a hidden / abrasive tall "sucker curb" caught my back rim on the tight turn!!!! :-(
Rim made it 17 yrs with no dings and then....BAAM ! Anyway, not on the blue 30th Ed. part, just at the chrome rim edge part, but how I fix by self, or you guys have a fave wheel restorer ?

**Decadence75** · 02-27-2016, 10:38 AM

Originally Posted by BobbyGFirebird

Scratched my alloy wheel rim on psycho-curb! How / where fix? Was pulling into a muni park lot for a lunch i didnt even want go to, and bizarre tight turn into entrance ramp and a hidden / abrasive tall "sucker curb" caught my back rim on the tight turn!!!! :-(
Rim made it 17 yrs with no dings and then....BAAM ! Anyway, not on the blue 30th Ed. part, just at the chrome rim edge part, but how I fix by self, or you guys have a fave wheel restorer ?

If it is chromed and got rashed, I am pretty sure it would have to be sanded down and re-chromed to be like new again. Though I could be wrong.

I hate it for you though man. Last year I had all the lugs shear off one of my rear wheels for some reason and the rotor dropped down and rode on the rim for a short bit. I hate the marks on the wheel from that.

**Decadence75** · 02-27-2016, 10:43 AM

I got tired of looking at the faded bird logo on the rear filler panel so I decided to make a replacement. It ended up being a little smaller than the original but it's not really that noticeable.

BEFORE:

AFTER:

**raynor139** · 02-27-2016, 01:06 PM

Originally Posted by BobbyGFirebird

Scratched my alloy wheel rim on psycho-curb! How / where fix? Was pulling into a muni park lot for a lunch i didnt even want go to, and bizarre tight turn into entrance ramp and a hidden / abrasive tall "sucker curb" caught my back rim on the tight turn!!!! :-(
Rim made it 17 yrs with no dings and then....BAAM ! Anyway, not on the blue 30th Ed. part, just at the chrome rim edge part, but how I fix by self, or you guys have a fave wheel restorer ?

I thought those wheels were just painted not chromed. Looking at picks online it just looks like the centers are painted then entire wheel is clear coated like the rest of the TA wheels from that era.

There are companies that repair curb rash that you may want to try and contact. You can sand it down if it's not too deep polish it and then respray the clear but with such a limited number of those wheels you may want to let a professional do it if you dont have alot of experience with that type of stuff.

Just remembered the 30ths were anodized wheels probably want to try to find a company who knows what they are doing with them.

**speedyWS6** · 02-28-2016, 03:28 AM

Finally got a chance to plug in a code scanner to determine what code has
reared it's head. I borrowed one from a friend at work and it's one of those
which plugs into a laptop.

Anyhow..... Plugged it all in and the only code showing was the one in the
screenshot.

I have a had a good read on it and it seems it is the front O2 sensor.

If it is not working correctly surely the car would run roughly? The
last time i drove it with the check light on, it ran just fine. No stumbles,
good steady idle and pulled fine.... so.... could it just have been the many weeks
of the cars inactivity which made it happen?

Once i clicked on the delete, it never showed on the next fire up and i ran it for a
bit but never actually drove the car.

I suppose if it does return the easiest thing is to get it in the air to check the sensor
condition?? They are the Bosch 13111

Also, can anybody clarify the "stored" and the "pending" aspect of the code?

Thanks guys

Trev

**pajeff02** · 02-28-2016, 03:49 PM

From the code, it looks like the sensor is sluggish. A properly working O2 sender will rapidly cycle up and down from around 150 mV to 850 mV as the engine is running. Fueling is always a moving target -- the PCM adds and subtracts fuel on the fly based upon O2 sensor feedback. Easiest check is to swap the sensors from side-to-side and see if the code moves to Bank 1.

The suspected malfunctioning O2 has set a code meaning that it is "stored". Each code has its unique own parameters such that it will not set the MIL until the required number of faults are detected within whatever time or number of ignition cycles it looks at. This code is also "pending" as it has sensed the same issue again and is counting like it is supposed to before setting the MIL (which is already on).