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Thread: 00 ss vs 96 or 97 ss
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04-19-2010, 01:21 PM #61
For an LS1?? Sounds about what it should be in my opinion.
I was quoted $1,400 from a local "pick a part" for a complete and running 6.0 litre with a 4L80E behind it with only 40,000 miles on the clock.
To be honest I wouldn't pay much more than the $550 advertised for an LS1 that can't be bored more than .005 to .010 over. If the cylinders have more wear than that it's junk anyway.
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04-19-2010, 04:26 PM #62
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04-19-2010, 05:24 PM #63
Go fish.................
Benchracing sucks. Who cares win or lose or draw. It doesnt matter. Just go have fun and get to a track so you know exactly what you can do with it.
Bad driver with an LS1 loses to a good driver LT1........LS1 is still > than LT1. Oh, and yes I have had both engines in cars along with 6-speeds. My current car is an LT1 and its torque and runs great but it doesnt pull or rev like the LS1. But I like my convertible Corvette (M6) better.Last edited by TLS_Addict; 04-19-2010 at 05:27 PM.
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04-19-2010, 07:10 PM #64
Sounds like an expensive door stop to me You can nearly buy a fresh complete crate motor for the kind of money you are seeing used LS1's go for....
If you can't bore it passed cylinder wear, and sleeving is out of the question then what good is it?? Time to start over.
They can keep these used 70K+ mile LS1's for that kind of money. Either buy the aluminum LS1's new or go cast iron.
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04-19-2010, 07:14 PM #65┌∩┐(◕_◕)┌∩┐
Man: The Mods you are fighting,
they are the biggest Men I have ever seen. I
wouldn't want to fight them!
Me: That is why no one will remember your name!
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04-19-2010, 07:31 PM #66
I was referring more or less to people in need of an engine and shopping. $3k is a damn good start on a fresh engine that should go another 100-150,000 miles easily, sometimes with a warranty to boot.
Just makes more economical sense. Who in their right mind would pay that much for an LS1 with 70K miles??? Ya at 70K it might still run good, as a buyer you have to be cautious. But honestly for $3k how much usable mileage is actually left in that engine. It might go another 100K, might not. Most have been run hard and put away wet. If it's worn beyond a simple .005 to .010 cleanup you're in a pickle. Most at that mileage and higher can't be cleaned up.
Sleeving is an expensive process on any engine, and it's been shown to be not 100% successfull on LS1's. Just not practical, I would only look at that option for a numbers matching situation on a classic car. Otherwise when that LS1 is used up, toss it in the trash.
Used, they just aren't worth all that much to me, but I guess there are people that can toss money away.
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04-19-2010, 07:46 PM #67
Hrm....I swear a few years ago you could get a 2004 GTO LS1 engine through Jim Pace or somewhere for something like $3,400 or so without the oil pan. They use the LS6 intake, LS6 block, LS1 cam......etc You guys know where I am going with this....lol
But anyway..........
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04-19-2010, 11:06 PM #68
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Pewter- 2001 SS Convertible
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04-20-2010, 04:05 AM #69
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04-20-2010, 05:38 AM #70
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04-20-2010, 07:26 AM #71
No doubt...
Its the same engine I think as the 01-02 f-body engine is it not? Well some of the F-body cars did have the lS6 block and others didnt. I think it depended on where it was made. But other than that what is the difference?
Sounds like a good play to me.
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04-20-2010, 08:13 AM #72
There is an LS6 engine available in crate form from crateengines.com or something like that. And it's roughly $3400 out the door.
It comes with the CTS-V caddy oil pan, and no intake.
Swap your Fbody oil pan on and an LS6 intake and you have a bonified LS6 crate engine, complete with LS6 heads/cam.
Several people here have went that route already and responded back with good results from what I've read.
For the price it just makes sense. Unless you want to build a stroker, or some sort of forced induction motor with forged internals, it's a much better option than paying new prices for used 70,000 mile LS1 engines.
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04-20-2010, 03:38 PM #73
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- 2000 camaro z28
ive raced a 94 lti s speed. i had a 01 ss with slp lid and .410 and it wasnt really a good race ha. your car has .373?
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04-21-2010, 08:33 AM #74
No doubt! I still would buy the new engine and take out the stock parts as you can ALWAYS find people would need the stock replacement crap such as a crank, rod, piston....etc
That way you have a new block and dont have to worry about one that needs bored and most of these puppies as mentioned only go out like 5 or 10 thousanths.
Did you see the new GT500 doesnt get engine sleeves? Its got a spray in something or other in an alluminum block. Supposed to take off over 100lbs in the front of the car and the coating from what I read is supposed to work better than a cast iron sleeve.
My car comes stock with 3.42 gears. Would LOVE to pop in some 4.10s though. would take away from the top end but the last time I hit 150+mph was on a bike.....which is sold.
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04-21-2010, 10:00 PM #75
As far as im concerned stock for stock the ls1 car is faster. Ive had both now a year apart both with about the same mileable and the Ls1 car i got even being a auto is ALOT faster then my lt1 M6 car. My lt1 car wasnt abused as bad, it was garage kept, it was clean, the ls1 car was neglected for 4 years. The best my lt1 Z-28 could put down with a K&N Nitto555Rs and a exhaust was a 13.8 at 98mph with a 1.9 60' time. Theres more torque on the bottom end and it feels faster, sure. But i lost to alot of stuff in that car and i havent lost to anything except a GT-R in the Trans am(ls1 car). After headers and exhaust im pretty sure i might be able to catch his stock cant drive self.
Lt1 cars nearly stock run a 13.8-13.6 at best BEST, the new v-6 mustangs are about to be running that, ls1 cars with 6 speeds have consistently posted high 12 sec times. Its why the 2004 Cobras exist.
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04-22-2010, 02:09 PM #76
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04-24-2010, 11:55 AM #77
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