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  1. #81
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    ok quickie here. the oil pan gets here fedex in a few hours. do i need to prime the oil pump before i put the pan on. if so how?

  2. #82
    Senior Member bigrondownhiller's Avatar
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    I dont know if there is room under the cowl. You pull the oil pump drive out and use a tool that plugs into the pump drive. You use a drill to spin the pump with pumps oil throughout the engine.

  3. #83
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigrondownhiller View Post
    I dont know if there is room under the cowl. You pull the oil pump drive out and use a tool that plugs into the pump drive. You use a drill to spin the pump with pumps oil throughout the engine.
    no definately not. i still have the motor out though so do i need to get a special attachment from oreily's or something? what is it called? i can do it while its outside of the car right?

  4. #84
    Senior Member bigrondownhiller's Avatar
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    Yeah you can do it with the motor out. Here is what the tool looks like. http://www.jegs.com/i/Mr.+Gasket/720/3795G/10002/-1. If you had an old disributer you could make one. You should be able to rent one. Did you put assembly lube on the mains and rod bearings?

  5. #85
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigrondownhiller View Post
    Yeah you can do it with the motor out. Here is what the tool looks like. http://www.jegs.com/i/Mr.+Gasket/720/3795G/10002/-1. If you had an old disributer you could make one. You should be able to rent one. Did you put assembly lube on the mains and rod bearings?
    i'll try to rent one tomorow or tonight. and yep its lubed up and ready to go. im to the point that when i get the pan on and prime it i can put it in. im getting anxious. lol and paranoid. ive gone over everything more times than i can count. and it all should be perfect. im ready to drop it in plug it up cross my fingers pray and turn that key.

  6. #86
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    alright last question i can think of for a while that i need answered soon. David lets see if you can catch this one pretty quick since you just did that valve job on yours and we have the same motor. the metal "T" shaped connector on the back of the air plenum (the one that the brake booster connects to). what hooks up to the other side??? i looked on my emissions sticker and it says "to access" not sure what that means. i've looked at my hanes manual and chiltons book and google. nothing. i don't know what hooks up to it. any ideas? david you tackled the last one amazingly with that pic. got an answer for this one?

  7. #87
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    Looking at the photo, the wire loom thats for the fuel injector harness wires is highlighted in red, the metal "t" shaped connector is circled in blue, the brake booster vacuum line is the yellow highlighted hose to the right of the "t" shaped connector, and the yellow highlighted vacuum hose to the left of the "t" shaped connector goes into the wire loom with the fuel injector harness wires. I'm not sure exactly where it goes from there. It's hard to track down when the motor is in the engine bay, because that wire loom goes behind the engine. I hope this helps.

  8. #88
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    Quote Originally Posted by davidlb512 View Post
    Click for full size

    Looking at the photo, the wire loom thats for the fuel injector harness wires is highlighted in red, the metal "t" shaped connector is circled in blue, the brake booster vacuum line is the yellow highlighted hose to the right of the "t" shaped connector, and the yellow highlighted vacuum hose to the left of the "t" shaped connector goes into the wire loom with the fuel injector harness wires. I'm not sure exactly where it goes from there. It's hard to track down when the motor is in the engine bay, because that wire loom goes behind the engine. I hope this helps.
    awesome!!! DAVID YOU ROCK!! i saw that lil hose in the wiring harness loom while i was going over all my connections making sure i knew where they all went. i thought that might be where it went but wasn't sure at all. that helps a ton. do i just get a lil rubber connector that goes on the connector and the lil hose to make it fit?

  9. #89
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    If you look closely, u can see that it's actually a 90* rubber connector. But u could just find a small piece of heat resistant rubber tubing that would work exactly the same. Just make sure u get it long enough so that as it heats and cools, it's not going to work it's way off of either end.

  10. #90
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    Quote Originally Posted by davidlb512 View Post
    If you look closely, u can see that it's actually a 90* rubber connector. But u could just find a small piece of heat resistant rubber tubing that would work exactly the same. Just make sure u get it long enough so that as it heats and cools, it's not going to work it's way off of either end.
    ok awesome that will work. after a long day and alot of money and work we finally have the motor in the bay ready for me to put the connectors and hoses and fluids and harness on. thats tomorow after school though. starter is in the shipping process. i broke an emissions line while putting it in along with the oil dipstick stupid cowl sticks out 73 feet. but tranny is bolted up also and in place. gotta pick up a rear seal for it and driveshaft will be ready to go in. one step closer to the moment i pray cross my fingers and turn the key

  11. #91
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    Awesome man! It's gonna feel great to hear it fire up i bet! Oh yea, it's sticks out 72' 9". Not quite 73'. haha.

  12. #92
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    Well it looks like your getting everything going. Good thing your motor is'nt an LQ1 you can't remove the oil pump drive with the heads on. lol
    :\Users\Steven\Pictures\d6ftg5nh.gif


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  13. #93
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    LMAO!!!!! nice measurement. sorry i been to busy for updates but heres how it is. tonights schedule is put the tranny lines on and the dipstick, attach the starter wires, (lol its bolted in place but when i was putting the bolts on under there one worked its way lose and fell out on my eye lol ) and then go to oreily's and buy a pack of those stupid rubber elbow things for vaccuum crap, attach one i need, replace the fuel filter and rear tranny seal. other than that its ready to start. i'll turn the key tomorow night at the latest . please send up some prayers guys i've worked hard on this and im just hoping it all goes right. its my first official rebuild on my own. so needless to say im nervous. i've followed the book and everything you guys have said. if i turn that key and hear nothing but metal or a shitty running motor lol so send em up please lol. i'll keep you guys posted. if everything goes right saturday i'll put the front clip back on. thanks for all your help guys you have been great

  14. #94
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    Quote Originally Posted by Smittro View Post
    Well it looks like your getting everything going. Good thing your motor is'nt an LQ1 you can't remove the oil pump drive with the heads on. lol
    lol yep i woulda backtracked AGAIN lol

  15. #95
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    turned the key and all you here is the starter trying to turn over. (new solenoid) and the flywheel doesn't turn. i looked under while they were starting it. so there it is. flywheel won't turn. i did everything to specs. any ideas?? FML

  16. #96
    Senior Member Orcus79's Avatar
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    Something tells me that the motor may have to come back out. one thing you could try, is to get under with a pry bar and try to turn it over, by hand. Somthing has to have happend for that connecting rod to break in the first place.

    Was the block checked for straightness/alighn honed? Have you inspected the tranny to see if it has packed up, causeing the motor to lock up?
    IS the starter connected right?

    forgot one thing, is the battery fully charged?
    Last edited by Orcus79; 01-15-2010 at 01:21 PM.

  17. #97
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    Quote Originally Posted by Orcus79 View Post
    Something tells me that the motor may have to come back out. one thing you could try, is to get under with a pry bar and try to turn it over, by hand. Somthing has to have happend for that connecting rod to break in the first place.

    Was the block checked for straightness/alighn honed? Have you inspected the tranny to see if it has packed up, causeing the motor to lock up?
    IS the starter connected right?
    FUCK!!! i don't want it to come back out. thats worst case last option. when i put it in i could turn it with a pry bar with relative ease. i didn't have the block checked for anything. i did the honing myself as their was no real damage to the cylinders. what do you mean see if the tranny has Packed Up? and yes the starter is connected right im pretty sure. wana run down the correct way to make sure? like i said you can hear the starter trying to turn it over. just no results.

    i just looked under the car and my torque converter is not all the way seated where it should be i don't think. i think its like a quarter inch forward against the flywheel.. would this keep the flywheel from spinning under the force of the starter???

  18. #98
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    o and i think the battery was but im hooking it up now just to be sure

  19. #99
    Senior Member Orcus79's Avatar
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    yes the torque converter not being seated properly would lock the front pump of teh transmission and keep the motor from turning over.

    By the transmission packing up, I mean breaking and locking up. Start with the torque converter and go from there.

  20. #100
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    Quote Originally Posted by Orcus79 View Post
    yes the torque converter not being seated properly would lock the front pump of teh transmission and keep the motor from turning over.

    By the transmission packing up, I mean breaking and locking up. Start with the torque converter and go from there.
    ok i think the torque converter is the problem. im fixing to work on it and see if thats it. i'll keep you posted. and no the tranny is fine but just in case i'll leave it unbolted to start the motor for the first time

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