3.4L forged internal kit?

[adrenalinejunkie]

PS an aftermarket engine manage ment system or piggyback unit should solve my computer probs right?

[Smittro]

CR is going to have to be determined by your own goals. I'm at 9.4-9.5 now and my hp goals are'nt near as high as yours. Originally I was thinkin about a twin turbo on my TDC, but later came to the conclussion I can hit my goal of 350-375 fwhp with a single.
I have extremely limited space under my hood and moving the batt to the trunk for some extra space.

[Smittro]

PS an aftermarket engine manage ment system or piggyback unit should solve my computer probs right?

Should, but i believe Forced Firebird I think shows what he's using for his and I believe it's a total stand alone. I'm thinking about moveing to the Accel 77012w for total engine management though. You may want to look into them at summit then determine what's right for your app.

[67rsss]

Before you get too far, look into a system like mega-squirt. I was trying to let you know that the factory computer will not be easy to work with on this job. You should be able to set up a speed density setup pretty easily. Gotta decide how you want to trigger the DIS. You had mentioned that you have little experience in this arena. Perhaps start with just rebuilding the existing and getting it running again? It would get you driving again while you can build up another 3.4L block. Be aware that you need to stick with the S code RWD block. There are a few cam choices out there, but not much to work with.

[Iyyob]

yea 2/ MS u got a few options to work with and its about the best option for our noncracked 1.5s its in the works for an update in a week or two, as far as compression im shootin for 10-11.5CR w/ 5-10lbs. boost if u wanna go 20lbs like u said earler ur gonna have to drop it sub 9 i think... im far from an expert just been reading and researching a while

[adrenalinejunkie]

thanks guys and yeah i have about zero experience in the engine management areas so ill definately need to do my homework on that. im currently trying to PM forced firebird i think he will be a huge help.

as for the CR prob.. ok so correct me if im wrong... but if i wana run more boost i need a lower CR right? and if not running a higher one is better? ok so what is too high and how can i determine what the pistons im looking into will do to this equation?

[67rsss]

Before you go spending a ton of time and money, go and do a bit of reading. It would be good for you to pick up a book or two on Engine Management Systems, and to do a bit of googling on the mega-squirt system. I think it will be the cheapest and easiest method for you to go. You may also want to learn a bit about supercharging and turbo systems. Both can be an excellent source of power gain, or a terrible end to a lot of work. Using the 3400 swap as a basis, with the aluminum heads you can get by with a bit more compression on light boost, and you will be wanting something in the 8.5-9.0 range on your static compression. Keep valve overlap to a minimum if you are building a boosted engine. There are a lot of people with a lot of good advice on increasing the output through forced injection, but get your basics up and working first. A better fuel system setup, and a more tunable spark/fuel curve will help termendously. You can always add FI later. Try to optimize the combo you have, and get the suspension worked out, then start worrying about more power. Also remember that you will run into limits on the trans and rear end as well. As for more compression being better, yes to a point. There are many things to consider, but as a safe general number, I wouldn't look at exceeding about 11:1 on 92 octane with the aluminum swap unless you get better control of the fuel and spark tables.

Oh, decided to trump the Daddy card here, but if a 13 yr old little girl can build a 3.4L, you should be able to as well...

...Well, she was 13 then...

[adrenalinejunkie]

lmfao haha like the daddy card there. i have already done reaearch on super and turbo chargers. im fixin to sit here and research the megasquirt like you suggested. thanks

[67rsss]

Cool. Just take your time and spend your money wisely. We have all thrown money at a problem before, and would like to help you hold onto some of yours. The biggest limits with the 60*'s (besides being a real pain for valve adjustment) is getting the air in (the 3400 swap will help), and getting the fuel in and out. The exhaust manifolds on your car are an absolute joke!

While the pace setter header set isn't exactly the best fit or quality, it definately outflows the stock setup. I am still campaing for you to pick up a junkyard engine and drop in just to get you mobile again while you learn, build, and test your ideas. Also, go to a forum called FullthrottleV6, they have a lot of people theat love the 60*'s (I have to admit that I don't like them very much).

[Forced_Firebird]

I can get you a forged crank.

67rsss, 3500 heads and 3400 pistons with 3.4 gaskets (.040" compressed) will get you just over 9:1 compression. The 3.4 pistons will get you about 11.5:1.

As far as performance parts being available I have dedicated myself to making the FWD aluminum head swap as painless as possible.

We offer a range of cams, full roller rocker arms, upgraded hardware (head studs, rod bolts, main studs etc), solid/hyd performance lifters (roller conversion coming soon), forged pistons, bearing upgrades, double roller timing sets, port work, larger TB's, gasket kits, valve spring upgrades, titanium retainers, SS valves etc etc etc.

All the parts are competitive with 3800 parts for those of you who think there's nothing for the 3.4's - flat tappet cams cost about 1/3rd the cost of a roller even, forged pistons are $575, and I can even sell a forged crank (needs a little machining to be a direct fit) for less than $200 shipped.


-john

[adrenalinejunkie]

I can get you a forged crank.

67rsss, 3500 heads and 3400 pistons with 3.4 gaskets (.040" compressed) will get you just over 9:1 compression. The 3.4 pistons will get you about 11.5:1.

As far as performance parts being available I have dedicated myself to making the FWD aluminum head swap as painless as possible.

We offer a range of cams, full roller rocker arms, upgraded hardware (head studs, rod bolts, main studs etc), solid/hyd performance lifters (roller conversion coming soon), forged pistons, bearing upgrades, double roller timing sets, port work, larger TB's, gasket kits, valve spring upgrades, titanium retainers, SS valves etc etc etc.

All the parts are competitive with 3800 parts for those of you who think there's nothing for the 3.4's - flat tappet cams cost about 1/3rd the cost of a roller even, forged pistons are $575, and I can even sell a forged crank (needs a little machining to be a direct fit) for less than $200 shipped.


-john

wow that would be amazing i am glad i finally found where i can get all this that wil mmake the build alot less painful and alot more convenient. unfortunately my job just fell through for the summer and unless there is an economic turnaround really wuick its loloking like i gota postpoine the build and just do a swaq to get my ddbakc and its time to find anouther good paying job to fund my habits.. ill still keep in toch though as when i build the engine im coming to you forced firebird bucause you seem like th e most convenient way to get the parts.