Max Jax Lift - Page 2

MrKid · 10-25-2009, 12:36 PM

Qwik: The lift is going to be "occupied" for some time, so my buddy's can just wait their turn

Cutless: There are no cables in this sytem. It uses hydralic rams, and there is an equlizer for the fluid pressure in the main power unit. It lifts pretty even, although one side may be about 1/2 inch lower every so oftem. My floor has a slight slope to it, so this is more the issue that the hydralics.

***Cutlass*** · 10-25-2009, 04:13 PM

Yeah our hoist are hydraulic rams too, but require cables to equalize the lifting and lower. I went to the website and found this info. Its a little vague but does describe how they equalize the lift/lower without cables. I'm curious too exactly whats inside that magic divider valve.

Quote:

Originally Posted by www.maxjaxusa.com

Works like magic

A cast iron gear flow divider is the heart of the MaxJax™ system, providing precisely equalized lifting. The specially designed flow divider/combiner is a positive-displacement fluid control device with precise flow division of hydraulic power from one column to the other even if load balance pressures change.

***Cutlass*** · 10-25-2009, 04:58 PM

Well after a little searching I found this info that better describes how this lift works.

Quote:

All hydraulic flow is passed through a mechanical divider valve or assembly. Each output port is controlled via=2 0a fixed gear cog. All gear cogs turn at exactly the same rate, due to incoming oil. Outgoing oil is usually 95 – 97% identical, allowing for some very good cylinder synchronization. Using built-in flow relief valves, these style of flow dividers actually “reset” themselves after each extension or retraction cycle. This automatically realigns the cylinders and keeps them in phase with each other.

MrKid · 10-25-2009, 05:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cutlass

Well after a little searching I found this info that better describes how this lift works.

Yeah, what they said

***pajeff02*** · 10-25-2009, 06:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cutlass

Yeah our hoist are hydraulic rams too, but require cables to equalize the lifting and lower. I went to the website and found this info. Its a little vague but does describe how they equalize the lift/lower without cables. I'm curious too exactly whats inside that magic divider valve.

Our Mohawk lift probably operates on the same principle. The only connection between the columns are two (2) hydraulic lines. The literature that was supplied with the lift indicates that each cylinder is equipped with a blow out valve. In the event of a hydraulic failure, the cylinders lock up. The only way to unlock them is too apply hydraulic pressure, ie. fix the break and re-pressurize the system. Our lift also has a diverter valve that allows the offside column to be operated independently of the mainside.

MrKid · 10-25-2009, 07:00 PM

This lift works on the same principle as most hydralic lifts. The differance is the power supply is mounted remotely on a cart so you actually see all the plumbing, and the lines are equal lenght. Same principles involved as far as pressurizing the rams.

***Cutlass*** · 10-26-2009, 04:57 AM

Learn something new everyday!

kool-aide · 01-28-2010, 03:30 PM

I have a crazy question. How did you figure out where to drill for the bolts? I'm guessing they give you instructions on how to properly space everything. I was thinking maybe you tried the rough fit with your car in the garage? I know ti seams silly to ask, but man i would hate to see one of things of by an inch and cause the hole thing to be redone.

What safety stops does it have? I'm guessing if there was a sudden leak the system is designed to prevent you from getting squished under the car?

great pics, I wish I had the cash to buy one.

MrKid · 01-28-2010, 04:03 PM

Actually it's a good question. It's probably the biggest part of the manual. I measured all dimensions of all my vehicles, and used the longest/widest ones. After I placed the towers, I measured off the back wall to make sure they were even. Then i measured from the front of one tower to the front of the other. I did the same for the back of the towers so I knew they were squared up. With the towers in place, I drilled pilot holes through the mounting plates. After all the holes were drilled, I removed the towers and drilled the full size holes and installed(beat in with a large sledge hammer

) the anchors.
As for the saftey, nothing fancy. There are holes every foot or so up the side of the tower. After the carrier clears the hole, you slide a solid steel rod through the holes, and lower the lift onto the rod. I left my T/A on the stops for a month, and they were just fine

kool-aide · 01-28-2010, 04:09 PM

i sure wish Santa would send one for Christmas,

.

i don't know if I like the idea of bolt/unbolt for storage. wouldn't the bolts begin to fatigue after repeated torque. Any way that thing is fancy and must be good, West Coast customs installed it in their garage.

I like how they use BMWs and Porches in there vids. Never see a guy with a Prius or Pinto buying one of these.

My local transmission shop recommended I seriously consider something like this if I was going to do a lot of home repairs. They said it would be worth the money and time. I agree, but still haven't found the money.

***pajeff02*** · 01-28-2010, 04:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kool-aide

My local transmission shop recommended I seriously consider something like this if I was going to do a lot of home repairs. They said it would be worth the money and time. I agree, but still haven't found the money.

A lift is well worth the investment if you do any serious work on cars. I have been absolutely spoiled by mine.

MrKid · 01-28-2010, 04:22 PM

LOL...the first car I lifted was my Sentra, so it works on the low end cars too.

The bolts and anchors are VERY beey. I don't imagine putting them in and taking them out too often, so they should last for ever. You don't need to really crank them down, as there are 7 of them, and tighten up more if any stress is placed on them. They tell you NO impact gun for install or removal. I actually haven't taken mine down since the install, but the car on it is in pieces, sooooo....

I will most likely leave one tower up on the wall side, and just remove the other when I need a large amount of space. You can pull the arms off very easily, and that makes the total footprint about 18 by 12 inches each tower. No too bad.

kool-aide · 01-28-2010, 04:27 PM

yeah i can see my kids using it as an amusement toy,

. That would not make me too happy.

Well thanks for the thread. I have seen one other lift, but this one looks better.

How big is your garage? I have to clean mine of all the junk any time I want to pull a car in. And they call it a two car garage, piss on that.

MrKid · 01-28-2010, 04:31 PM

I guess mine is an oversized 1 car. It's 24x18, with an 8 x 10 door to fit my lifted Jeep. It's a little tight right now, becasue my tranny is in a crate ready to ship, and the engine is on a stand. Once the car is back in one piece, it will be the perfect size.

kool-aide · 01-28-2010, 04:39 PM

funny where i live they call that a two car garage, heck they call that a big 2 car garage.

I think I am like 19 x 21 i think. I have just enough room to park my car to one side, garage door down, and still squeeze by the kitchen door. I have benches, toolbox, shelfs that line the sides like most folks.

MrKid · 01-28-2010, 04:45 PM

Sorry, the measurement are the other way. 18 wide, and (I just remembered) 24 deep. I wanted to go wider, but building code is a real b***h in my town. I had to build it like I live on the gulf coast.

kool-aide · 01-28-2010, 04:48 PM

still i would rather have 24 feet of depth. much easy to get at least on car in with 24 feet than 21,

. thanks for the info. that gives me a real good idea of the space on the width.

01-28-2010, 04:03 PM	#29
MrKid It lives! Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Milford, CT Posts: 438 2000 WS6 Black	Actually it's a good question. It's probably the biggest part of the manual. I measured all dimensions of all my vehicles, and used the longest/widest ones. After I placed the towers, I measured off the back wall to make sure they were even. Then i measured from the front of one tower to the front of the other. I did the same for the back of the towers so I knew they were squared up. With the towers in place, I drilled pilot holes through the mounting plates. After all the holes were drilled, I removed the towers and drilled the full size holes and installed(beat in with a large sledge hammer) the anchors. As for the saftey, nothing fancy. There are holes every foot or so up the side of the tower. After the carrier clears the hole, you slide a solid steel rod through the holes, and lower the lift onto the rod. I left my T/A on the stops for a month, and they were just fine

10-25-2009, 12:36 PM	#21
MrKid It lives! Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Milford, CT Posts: 438 2000 WS6 Black	Qwik: The lift is going to be "occupied" for some time, so my buddy's can just wait their turn Cutless: There are no cables in this sytem. It uses hydralic rams, and there is an equlizer for the fluid pressure in the main power unit. It lifts pretty even, although one side may be about 1/2 inch lower every so oftem. My floor has a slight slope to it, so this is more the issue that the hydralics.

10-25-2009, 07:00 PM	#26
MrKid It lives! Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Milford, CT Posts: 438 2000 WS6 Black	This lift works on the same principle as most hydralic lifts. The differance is the power supply is mounted remotely on a cart so you actually see all the plumbing, and the lines are equal lenght. Same principles involved as far as pressurizing the rams.

10-26-2009, 04:57 AM	#27
*Cutlass* ASE Master Technician Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Madison, WI Posts: 3,833 99 Formula WS6 M6 Red	Learn something new everyday!

01-28-2010, 03:30 PM	#28
kool-aide Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Deltona, FL Age: 35 Posts: 1,213 2002 Camaro Z28 Sebring Silver Metalic	I have a crazy question. How did you figure out where to drill for the bolts? I'm guessing they give you instructions on how to properly space everything. I was thinking maybe you tried the rough fit with your car in the garage? I know ti seams silly to ask, but man i would hate to see one of things of by an inch and cause the hole thing to be redone. What safety stops does it have? I'm guessing if there was a sudden leak the system is designed to prevent you from getting squished under the car? great pics, I wish I had the cash to buy one.

01-28-2010, 04:09 PM	#30
kool-aide Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Deltona, FL Age: 35 Posts: 1,213 2002 Camaro Z28 Sebring Silver Metalic	i sure wish Santa would send one for Christmas, . i don't know if I like the idea of bolt/unbolt for storage. wouldn't the bolts begin to fatigue after repeated torque. Any way that thing is fancy and must be good, West Coast customs installed it in their garage. I like how they use BMWs and Porches in there vids. Never see a guy with a Prius or Pinto buying one of these. My local transmission shop recommended I seriously consider something like this if I was going to do a lot of home repairs. They said it would be worth the money and time. I agree, but still haven't found the money.

01-28-2010, 04:22 PM	#32
MrKid It lives! Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Milford, CT Posts: 438 2000 WS6 Black	LOL...the first car I lifted was my Sentra, so it works on the low end cars too. The bolts and anchors are VERY beey. I don't imagine putting them in and taking them out too often, so they should last for ever. You don't need to really crank them down, as there are 7 of them, and tighten up more if any stress is placed on them. They tell you NO impact gun for install or removal. I actually haven't taken mine down since the install, but the car on it is in pieces, sooooo.... I will most likely leave one tower up on the wall side, and just remove the other when I need a large amount of space. You can pull the arms off very easily, and that makes the total footprint about 18 by 12 inches each tower. No too bad.

01-28-2010, 04:27 PM	#33
kool-aide Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Deltona, FL Age: 35 Posts: 1,213 2002 Camaro Z28 Sebring Silver Metalic	yeah i can see my kids using it as an amusement toy, . That would not make me too happy. Well thanks for the thread. I have seen one other lift, but this one looks better. How big is your garage? I have to clean mine of all the junk any time I want to pull a car in. And they call it a two car garage, piss on that.

01-28-2010, 04:31 PM	#34
MrKid It lives! Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Milford, CT Posts: 438 2000 WS6 Black	I guess mine is an oversized 1 car. It's 24x18, with an 8 x 10 door to fit my lifted Jeep. It's a little tight right now, becasue my tranny is in a crate ready to ship, and the engine is on a stand. Once the car is back in one piece, it will be the perfect size.

01-28-2010, 04:39 PM	#35
kool-aide Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Deltona, FL Age: 35 Posts: 1,213 2002 Camaro Z28 Sebring Silver Metalic	funny where i live they call that a two car garage, heck they call that a big 2 car garage. I think I am like 19 x 21 i think. I have just enough room to park my car to one side, garage door down, and still squeeze by the kitchen door. I have benches, toolbox, shelfs that line the sides like most folks.

01-28-2010, 04:45 PM	#36
MrKid It lives! Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Milford, CT Posts: 438 2000 WS6 Black	Sorry, the measurement are the other way. 18 wide, and (I just remembered) 24 deep. I wanted to go wider, but building code is a real b***h in my town. I had to build it like I live on the gulf coast.

01-28-2010, 04:48 PM	#37
kool-aide Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Deltona, FL Age: 35 Posts: 1,213 2002 Camaro Z28 Sebring Silver Metalic	still i would rather have 24 feet of depth. much easy to get at least on car in with 24 feet than 21, . thanks for the info. that gives me a real good idea of the space on the width.