2000 Z28 cranks but wont start. What is the best Microtuner?

I bought this car about 2 years ago with about 13,500 miles on it and have put only 3,000 miles on it since, so it sits in the garage alot(excelent maintence though, my girlfriend tells me i wash it more than i drive it!). It's pretty much stock except for an exhaust and air filter. It always fired right up untill about a week ago when i when it hesitated for a little bit before starting, but once it was running it ran fine. It started hard three times in that night but always started and ran fine. Today when i went to try it just cranked but never started. It has fuel pressure and all the fuses are fine. I am looking into a code reader and i think getting a tuner that doubles as reader is my best bet for the money, but which one is the best? (Diablo, CraneCams, Hypertech, Superchips???) Any input would be much appreciated.

Could be your starter motor. If it can't get the flywheel spinning fast enough it'll just keep turning and turning and.....turning.

But a reader won't tell you that's the problem. At least, I don't think it will.

How often do you put new fuel in it? If it's going to sit for a long time add some stabilizer to the fuel.

I put about two tanks of gas in it a year and put stabilizer in it when it sits in the winter. Plus it runs fine when it gets running so i dont think its bad gas. I charged the battery and checked the starter it seems to be cranking at the same speed as always. I guess my next step is to check for spark. Having multiple coils means i probably have to check more than one plug? Would one bad coil make it not start?

Did you try using the gas pedal a little to get it started? If that works, I might suggest your IAC valve is stuck. Basic maintenance might be a solution too - change the fuel filter, check the plugs, check the fluids, etc. The reason it starts hard is all of the oil has drained to the bottom of the block. Starting up a car is hard on it as it is. But, starting up a car that has been sitting for months at a time makes it worse. You really should start it and let it idle for 20 mins every couple of weeks - even if you don't drive it.

Tried using the gas pedal, didnt work. The fuel filter was replaced a couple of years ago, but i ordered a new one anyway. All the fluids were fine, checking my records i found that i do the oil and filter about every 800 miles. Pulled a few plugs and they still look brand new. The only thing that seemed wrong was that the coolant level read really high on the dip stick, about four inches higher than the HOT reading level. Is this a problem or is it just a common problem with the dip stick would this trip the sensor? I probably should put new coolant in anyway since its supposed to be changed every five years.

Your IAC has nothing to do with this i dont think. That is used only for when the car is running, Hence- Idle air control. If the car is just cranking and not even struggling to stay alive then hitting the gas pedal will do nothing.

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Originally Posted by Hi-Po

Your IAC has nothing to do with this i dont think. That is used only for when the car is running, Hence- Idle air control. If the car is just cranking and not even struggling to stay alive then hitting the gas pedal will do nothing.

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As soon as you turn the key to run (before you even start the motor), the IAC moves to what's called a park position. If his IAC was stuck in a closed position, that would be a valid suggestion since the engine needs more air during startup than that tiny hole in the throttle body can provide. In this case, it doesn't sound like it's his problem once he said he tried giving it gas.

Swapping out the old coolant isn't a bad idea, but I don't think it'll solve your problem. It's hard to say what it is other than the side effect of sitting too long.

Thanks for all the advice, I think my only move now is to take it to the dealer and have it checked out. Hopefully its nothing major.