I wonder if those will clear a FAST 102 with truck coils?
Possible price if you were to make a set?
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Got them here Scott,TSP LS1 LS6 Coil Covers | eBay I bet they would fit with a little trimming, they fit my new 5.3 that's going in my mustang before I cut them up to fit the bird
What catch can is that and what lines and connections did you use for on the intake?
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Feeling old at 32?! I must feel friggin' ancient then at my age. :rotfl:
The oil catch can is a cheapy from eBay and don't wast your money cause I can't get it to stop leaking, spent way to much time taking it on and off and it still leaks so it is going by by soon. The lines to it are just braided fuel lines with hose clamp ends hidden inside of the chrome nut from Summit. The fuel lines I made up with real braided line and AN fittings
You can cut these away to fit I had to around my oil catch can bracket. Does it sit in front of your valve cover? One thing that sucked was trying to get the passenger side in because of the heater box as well as the oil dip stick. The driver side also had problems with the fuel rail and lines coming out. I really think they would be best at home on a LS swap with a carb or the fuel rails that sit on top of intake with the line going in front or rear. I think they will look cool when done or I keep saying that because I cut the shit out of $100 bill:lmao:
Ah cool thanks
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'99 Trans Am ws6 v8 6-speed:
Gents, it has 6,000 pm red-line warning, but I note the tach goes to 7k. Is there a built-in engine cut-off anywhere at 6k, 6500, etc? I try to keep her below 6k, and even then have only blipped over 5-5.5k a few times for a brief second going up through the gears. Do you guys keep it below 5 for street driving? They tell us to keep our Harleys below 4k ! :-)
Turned a (minor) wrench on the ole gal for the first time in probably over a year. She has been having this terrible intermittent charging issue. I chalked it up to the PS pump I replaced a couple years ago already leaking again (which it does) and killing yet another alt. So I picked up a nice Powermaster alt and the relocation kit from CBR Performance (home state holla!) So I actually had a little free time this morning to play with it some and the last couple weeks from absolute hell and beyond, it helped me to take my mind off other crap. Since the car is a somewhat DD, even with the charging issue it never stranded me. Would just go from 13+ volts to 8 steady. Dimmer lights at night but drove fine and would sometimes just bounce back up to 13+. So I couldn't do the whole thing at once since I neglected to measure and get a new belt beforehand. So I figured that I would do a little prep work to get the ball rolling and make me want to work on it more. So I got under her and dropped the alt. I noticed something that had escaped my attention each time I pulled the alt before... it already had a spliced pigtail for the exciter wire. Not only had the pigtail been replaced but whoever did it was a hack. He used 12GA wire where the original was 18GA causing an unexpected change in resistance. Not only that but I had bare wire hanging all out of the weather pack with about an eighth of an inch movement in and out of the socket. Plus he used aluminum wire instead of copper. Since I couldn't complete the job in one go I decided to stop gap fix the issue by just lopping off the connector, stripping, twisting, soldering and heat shrinking the new pigtail in there. My suspicion is that it will allow the car to run fine again until I can find the time to do the full relocation. It certainly jumped back up to 13+ volts once done and backing off the ramps.
Attachment 26591
Attachment 26592
With that kit you won't have to worry about adding any new wire. You have to pull it out of the loom to get it placed into the passenger side loom. I measure it out a few extra inches then cut off the excess and re-plugged it into the harness.
I finally installed my new switch plate from Emblem Pros..
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...psxjrd7dde.jpg
:yup:
You will want to invest into a 9/16" crow's foot. Using wrenches is a PITA.
Also pay some attention to the power steering bracket. I'm not sure if the potted aluminum just gave out form age or because of the tension that this can add to the belt drive that it caused mine to crack. If it does pm me and I'll point you to where I got my nice billet aluminum piece.
^^^+1
It also comes down to what's in the car. My cam is spec'd out to 7,000rpm. My tuner set the rev at 6500 rpm. 1 - it gives me a cushion and 2- that is about right where the power peaks and falls off.
Only time I get into the 4's (rpm's is when I'm doing a hard acceleration or launching. Most times I'm shifting at around 3-3500 rpms. My gas tank thanks me for doing so.
Got all the new suspension parts installed. Springs, shocks, sway bars, upper and lower a arms.Changed out the lower control arms and pan hard bar to styles that don't use rod ends. Adj. torque arm and new UMI torque arm mount to get off the trans. MWC drive shaft safety loop installed also. Didn't get to drive it too long since it started raining while I was grilling dinner. Gotta play with the rear shocks and see where i like them set at and get the car aligned. It was too late in the day when it was all done. Buddy was joking I better find a place that specializes in vettes since it sits so low now. But gotta wait out another day or two of rain first. The stance looks great now no longer that 4x4 look. Just on the short drive i took from the shop to the house the car felt solid and planted and the rear didn't sound like it was gonna shake apart when backing up like it did on all the worn out stuff after the S60 was put in last year.
Now just gotta put the interior all back together. Since all the seats but the driver seat is out. Still putting the new leather seat covers on them. Then gotta pull and do the drivers seat. Plus all the interior panels that were taken out to do the shock install need to be put back in. Once that's done the only thing left for this season is finally installing the 6LE front splitter I've had for a while and I got a new version of their rear diffuser. Used to have the Chinese made one but it fit like crap and didn't want to put the kind of money needed into it to fix it. Now the new ones are american made and look so much damn better and just from the quick pre-fit before paint it looks like it will fit a lot better then the old style.
Once everything is done and the car is cleaned up ill get pics with all the new goodies on the car.