Hopefully that's as far as it goes. Now you got another reason to recommend sfcs for people.
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Hopefully that's as far as it goes. Now you got another reason to recommend sfcs for people.
Sometimes they take full flight.
http://www.red2kta.com/carblog/wp-co...r-1024x768.jpg
That happened to me last year on my way to work. About a quarter mile from my office I hear a loud clunk and my rear driver side drops down. I manage to get into the center lane of a divided highway and get out to find all 5 studs are snapped off. Luckily I wasn't going fast and the rotor dropped down and was riding on the rim. No serious damage to the wheel but the scars on it still make me mad.
It’s a Wheel of Fortune I Didn’t Die | 2000 Trans Am Blog
ARP didn't have any wheel studs in stock for our cars back when I swapped out to the longer ones for the track. I ended up buying studs through Moser and they have held up real well so far.
Well there's great news.....
Oil pan, wheel & exhaust all are good. Only victims were the lug studs, rotor, oil filter & center cap for the wheel. Thank God I quickly shut the engine off. Only loss about 4 quarts of oil. Guess she wanted an oil change...
I went ahead and replace the hub figured with 170k miles on it might as well, plus new studs already installed. Got new lugs as well and made sure every damn one of them were tight. Has to get the wheel re-balanced because the weight came off.
Here is some better pics.
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All better
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SMWS6TA Glad to hear yourself and your car weren't injured badly!
I ordered my LEDs on my morning break from eBay. Sylvania Zevo LEDs. I typically get V-LEDs bulbs, but Sylvania has had a great reputation with the Zevo bulbs. Got a pair of 3157 amber bulbs ( 3457 capable ) and one Zevo 194 white LED for my plate bulb so I can put the LED in the WS6's plate housing back into my truck. I seen they had a make offer option, I rarely ever play around with those but I did with this purchase to see where it got me, we all know LEDs get expensive quick.
The pair of 3157s were $24.99, I offered $21.99. Got returned with $23.85 counter offer. Not a drastic drop but better than nothing. The single 194 was $9.99, offered $7.99, counter offered $9.50. So I took the offers and they are on the way. So I saved a whopping $1.63 :lol:. To top that off, I went walking through the local Walmart automotive section earlier today and in the light bulb aisle I found the #194 zevo for $9.85. Thought to myself crap I could have got it here and played around with it today in my other car. Hoping for a 5000k pure white and not a 6000k blue hue white.
That oil filter held up pretty good.
I awoke the Trans Am from its winter slumber. She is now in the lift bay for pre-flight inspection and a little routine maintenance.
Sorry it took so long to get you a pic!
These are the pieces of the SLP LM I have!
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The short 90* going over the axle is what I had to cut! Which parts do you need?
Looking closer it looks like you cut the over axle section down low, which might render it not operable for me. I want to get a 3" midpipe as I salvaged my OEM one when the GMMG kit got installed. I'm up in the air on the midpipe portion since the LM1 is in the midpipe. Looks like you had the same problem I did. Some fool put a U bolt clamp on and torqued it down until it crushed into the pipe that was inserted male end. I had a shop end up making that pipe 3.25" after working that out lol! This is why I prefer band clamps.
Might not need anything then, I just want to get a 3" midpipe for a good deal vs custom ordering one. I may just give MadHammer a call and see if they will ship me one out.
Going to swap in a Th350 over my 4L60e.
Drove Too Fast 250+ miles today, working on the spring cruise for the local Firebird Club. Anyone interested, PM me. We are going to the Ohio County museum in Rising Sun, Indiana on April 16th. Or just quote me hear. Everyone on this forum would be welcome.
Hey Gents. I don't get all this broken stud stuff. Also an article in Car & Driver about NEW Subaru WRX's "commonly" breaking wheel studs. Aren't wheel studs supposed to be like, um... super-strong ? :-)
Depends on the material, how much torque applied, the stretch of the bolt and other x factors.
Crappy lugs or loose fitting lugs are the most common failures but everytime the tire shop guy uses an impact gun to tq the F@#k out of them it stretches the threads and bolts. Over time they will fail.
Not saying this is what happen to mine. Mine where most likely not tighten enough down and came loose.
I torque my lug nuts 100 Lbs. with a torque wrench instead of the tire shop using an impact gun. Is this O.K.
Yes, of course a torque wrench is ok. Preferred actually.
But FWIW, impact guns and torque sticks are used 10 trillion trillion times more often to tighten wheels then torque wrenches and really shouldn't concern any one. They are safe. An impact gun with a regular socket can certainly do some damage though.
I have been using an impact gun with a torque stick since the 90's. Never once have I had an issue with the wheels coming loose or breaking a stud off. Of course, they are some vehicles that I dont have a torque stick that fits, so I just use my impact gun an common sense. As it has been said before, the best way is a torque wrench though, using the factory recommended settings.
I just tighten it as much as can with a ratchet and then do a quick squeeze on each socket with my impact. I've never had an issue with this method.