My welder makes me look like I can weld... when I am not setting myself on fire. Damn thing makes it almost impossible to screw up a weld.
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My welder makes me look like I can weld... when I am not setting myself on fire. Damn thing makes it almost impossible to screw up a weld.
well with enough Nocor and steroid shots you too can block out the back pain and finish this project too.....
All together, fluids filled, all that's left is to hook battery up and turn key. I'm tired of doing this shit....
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...psaenumhkh.jpg
Luck is wished. :thumbup:
I was also sceptical about the way you were cutting away at the frame and other structural parts, BUT after seeing the final product....WOW!! looks like a factory piece. The real issue is still the motor mount. As others have already said, it may be a sound piece, but I would be worried about it twisting or flexing out of shape, due to the smaller diameter of the one side of the mount. The integrity of the mount had to have been compromised. Regardless, great work!
I believe the best way to describe your past history as a a carriage worker here in the states would be someone in the USA that would be working for the railroad company. Such as CSX, B&O etc.
I appreciate the positive comments guys!
I WILL tend to the motor mount sometime soon but i am all
worn out from the stuff over the last few days.
I finished the Tunnel brace today and it is wearing a great
gloss black finish :) Who needs UMI!!! :yup:
You have all been a great help with all of the suggestions, advice
and pointers so far in my ownership and long may it continue!!
Going back to the spark plug issue... what SHOULD i get MSD wise
which will offer more clearance at the header tube??
:)
I use the MSD 8.5mm super conductor wires and have had no issues with them.
The trick is to bend the boots on the MSD wires. 0rion taught me that trick back when I installed them on our car. I also installed a set of DEI heat sleeves over the plug ends, but understand that the stock metal shields can also be re-installed.
I also spent many years (12) building rail cars(7 different types) here in the states. No real title such as coach builder(I like that) we were just welder fabricator's. I put in another 4+ in another shop building man lifts then repairing them. Had to cut apart and reweld finished units right off the assembly line. I became pretty good with a grinder and welder. Now I just do it at home for fun for myself and others who need it. I love doing it now it's not a job
I use Taylor Cable 79603 and slide the stock metal boot over top of the spark plug boot end. It takes some time and some dielectric grease on the wire, but it will fit. The wires have been on my car for well over 10 years now with no issue at all.
Spent the day cleaning for a show tomorrow also checked the Trans fluid and rear end fluid. Also grabbed some picks from under while it was up of the parts I just added
http://i922.photobucket.com/albums/a...psf8028f29.jpg
Wanted black but could not pass on the deal
http://i922.photobucket.com/albums/a...pse9ba5d8b.jpg
http://i922.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps6310b3da.jpg
Drove out to a show today...
About 40 miles one way and it drove great on the way there!
On the way back shortly after setting off it started running
like cr*p!! Finally got home after all sorts of hassles and problems
running through my mind, :think: popped the hood and started looking
about only to find the plug lead on #2 swinging in the breeze.
That would do it, eh?? :cuss:
Did it cook the wire?
If it did, you would know it -- either the boot or the wire would be melted or burned.
I get you Jeff, you mean obviously and physically melted and horrid!
I thought you meant somehow electrically speaking causing it not to
play ball due to getting too hot internally in some way?!
Nope.... like i said, all looks fine outwardly and it revved nicely once
clipped back into place!