Well I've been busy, replaced alternator, double checked power steering pump, installed 2 step, shift light, removed a/c, speakers, and back seats.
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Well I've been busy, replaced alternator, double checked power steering pump, installed 2 step, shift light, removed a/c, speakers, and back seats.
Been fiddling about underneath and it's starting to look
a lot cleaner and tidier under there!
Dave (Nutball) gave me the top tip of the flexible vinyl paint
on the factory undercoating. I was less than happy with the
sad flat look and this paint really puts a great sheen on it.
http://i993.photobucket.com/albums/a...psd44d0d20.jpg
Possibly not everybody's thing but i love the improved look!:thumbup:
I used an all weather type of foam that I had laying around in my garage for just this type of work. It's the same type of foam/rubber for the door and trunk seals. I got a piece of stainless steel to cover the hole I cut out for the access hole. Then used self cutting stainless steel screws to hold it back in place. This way, if I ever need to remove it, I just unscrew it and the seal is still good too. No need to drain the tank either.
There are some gloss versions of plastidip.
Well guys,
You all seem curious as to what i used!!?
I get the impression you like the result so.......
.... The one i used was this one, Halfords | Halfords Flexible Vinyl Paint Black
Obviously this is a UK brand from Halfords store, much like your
auto parts stores i guess?
A quick look around has found this one Auto Paint SEM Color Coat Black Vinyl Spray Car Paint | eBay
Now, i cannot say it will get the same exact results but like i said
previously i "stole" the idea From Nutball and what a great tip!!
Looked at Plastidip rubber coating aerosols on ebay and it may do the
job well but dunno what finish it would give sheen wise?
The Halfords one above does not specify gloss or semi or anything, just
that it is black and flexible so i went for it. All it needed was a careful bit
of masking and one can equaled 2 coats for one wheel well.... so 2 cans
in total. Before i shot the paint i gave all the undercoating a real good
wash down with a stiff brush and some suds then once dry i wiped it all
down with acetone to properly de-grease the surfaces.
Here are a couple more views and it does look slightly glossier than real life
but not too far off i have to say......
http://i993.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps8fab453f.jpg
http://i993.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps0698c08d.jpg
:O)
Patrick,
It may well do. A similar sort of result i'd guess?
I suppose my method has colored an already thick factory undercoating
whereas bedliner is thick in it's own right.... isn't it?
Just looked at the herculiner site. It looks ideal!
Trev
One thing which may need a mention.
Mine.... like a lot of cars on here are not daily drivers and don't
see the wet.
Maybe this process would not stand up to the wet but equally, i
don't suppose you would bother detailing wheel wells on a daily, would you?!
:)
my car never gets driven in the rain unless for some odd reason I miss a weather report. I think i've driven my car in the rain twice in a year...1.) is because I just dont want to 2.) I hydroplaned in an Fbody a long time ago and i've always been skittish since then...it stung a little bit so I dont drive my car in the rain anymore lol
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y87...rshotofCar.jpg
I make it a habit to bag and label all bolts I take off anytime I am doing serious work. I was thinking of replacing all the block parts like the barbell, plugs & sensors when I rebuild it. I'm pretty sure that all Gen III blocks share front and rear covers & bolts along with most of the external components.
Since I was really only after the block I plan on trying to sell off as much of the motor as possible to try and re-coup some of the cost. And now that I am looking at the picture again I guess I'm gonna have to bolt the flexplate back up in order to loosen that crank bolt, DOH! I had to put visegrips on the waterpump pulley in order to get the clutch fan off so I doubt anyone is going to want the one I have so it's pretty much junk at this point I guess.
I used an impact for the crank bolt, it came of in less than a second lol.
Nope the crank doesn't turn when using an impact. The impact has a hammering mechanism inside which is how the bolt turns but it doesn't turn the object it is threaded into.