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Thread: Yank SS3600 Stall converter tune
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06-05-2014, 06:44 PM #1
Yank SS3600 Stall converter tune
Hey guys,
I am in the process of installing my new Yank SS3600 Stall converter into my 2002 LS1 that has 3.73 gears and just a lid/catback
Couple questions as I try and get the tune ready for the stall converter that will likely be done by this weekend...
1) General Shift lock enable - from factory we have a setting that is "on" that allows the TCC to remain locked during a shift. Do I want to turn this option off or leave it as is? I remember when tuning my v6 that you did not want to be locking the converter when shifting unless you wanted to blow the converter apart??
2) Do we want to eliminate the TCC duty cycle? I know this is something we did in the v6 as with that car aftermarket converters didn't like to be slipped on and off, they liked either a solid on or off...?
3) Im guessing I'll need to adjust the apply /release of the converter -I think this is pretty straight forward...is this something that is common in the ls1 cars to?
4) I've read about tcc's locking and unlocking due to misfire counts- is this something a case learn would fix, or am I stuck changing the misfire numbers to #32767 ?
5) further to #4, if I do need to change those numbers, (under the engine misfire tab) am I changing them under revolution mode? cylinder mode? or both?
6) is there anything I missed / am unaware of?
Thanks to everyone in advance!!
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06-06-2014, 02:13 AM #2
I have a 3,200 stall and 3.73's in our car. Tune file looks like this:
Shift lock is enabled.
TCC Duty Cycle - Max is all at 99, Min is all at 98.
Misfire tables are all at 32767.
This stuff is a bit over my head, but our car runs and drives fine. Only issue I have is on long downhill runs with the trans in OD it will lock and unlock the clutch around 40 mph. I just pull the selector back into D going down the hill and then have no issue with this.
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06-06-2014, 05:46 AM #3
Is it safe to remain enabled? I thought you needed a multi clutch converter to handle that, not the regular converters like the Yank SS?
I plan on setting the TCC duty cycle to the above.
Do you set all of the misfire tables to that- I thought it is better to leave the higher rpm tables to the normal settings so that the car can detect misfires at higher rpm?
Lastly- what do those numbers represent? I really wish hp tuners would give me more information about that the values in half of these damn tables represent. That's great I know what to change, but I like to know why it is changed and what the numbers represent...I hate doing things blindly!
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06-06-2014, 05:48 AM #4
Also - sounds like your issue could be fixed by adjusting your lockup and release settings.
Mike
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06-08-2014, 11:19 PM #5
my tcc duty cycle is still at the stock settings
my tcc is disabled in shifts although it doesn't really matter.....after 75% throttle it won't be locked anyhow
I only have mine locking in 4th after about 40mph because who needs it locked in 3rd unless you're looking for gas mileage or something. Generally just cruising you're going to be in 4th anyhow. We did have a section of town that was 35mph and if I had it lock through that section I would get some cam surge so I just raised it so it wouldn't lock until I was above 40. It was just easier than forever playing with airflow tables to get rid of that little bit of surge.
My misfire detection has been disabled for years but if you wanted to keep it you can just keep desensitizing it down low until your lock up issue stops or turn it all the way off in the low/medium tables. Thing is if you get a misfire at upper rpm's you're going to feel it anyhow so that's why I just disabled them altogether.
jeff....look at your apply/release mph's in the first 2 or 3 columns. I'm assuming you're out of the throttle there coasting? Keep those apply/release mph's tight....like 1 or 2 mph apart. May just need to tweak the mph's some.
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06-09-2014, 02:18 AM #6
Thanks. I do need to play with it a bit this year. Pulling it back into drive was "the easy fix", but if changing the mph is all it would take, then that is simple.
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06-09-2014, 05:24 AM #7
You're right- I hadn't opened the apply/release tables before I posted in here- I was just dabbling around looking at the settings. Weird that even though that table disables it, that GM would have it enabled with that overall function...
TCC I'll set to 98/99 min/max as that is what you want for the least amount of wear on the converter clutch
You're right about this misfire, my thing is, yes I will feel the misfire if it hits at high rpm- but I want to know where it is coming from lol. The diagnostics will tell you cylinder "x" as opposed to- let's play the where is that misfire coming from game lol....which I mean, isn't that hard of a game to play, but can get pretty expensive with these guys or can take up time
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06-10-2014, 02:34 AM #8
If I recall correctly, misfire works by sensing the torsional force on the crank shaft (probably a bad description) and when it sees a drop it associates that drop with a specific cylinder based upon the timing of the event. Not sure how bad a torque converter throws that off or if it would work if you reenabled the tables for diagnostic purposes.
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06-15-2014, 07:00 AM #9
I'm like Orion, I ended up eliminating the misfire tables all together. At first I kept desensitizing the tables. I got down to 50% and the darn thing was still setting off the misfire codes because my converter drove around pretty loose.
Desensitizing any less likely wouldn't detect much of a misfire so I just eliminated it. I figure any misfire I'll feel anyway like Orion mentioned (driving classics all the time you become sensitive to that anyway) and it isn't that hard to diagnose. It's either fuel or spark 99% of the time, very easy to check things.
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