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Would a small hole in the TB blade cause all of these problems?

This is a discussion on Would a small hole in the TB blade cause all of these problems? within the Computer & Tuning forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; should I drill a stock size hole back in mine?...

  1. #21
    Senior Member Hurley711's Avatar
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    414 RWHP 395 RWTQ
    00 Black Ram Air Trans Am

    should I drill a stock size hole back in mine?

  2. #22
    Junior Member edcmat-l1's Avatar
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    How Do You Know The Hole Wasnt Stock Size To Begin With! Drill Out The Pop Rivet, And Get It Tuned!
    And Start By Reading The Posts In Your Own Thread!

  3. #23
    Senior Member Hurley711's Avatar
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    414 RWHP 395 RWTQ
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    Quote Originally Posted by edcmat-l1 View Post
    How Do You Know The Hole Wasnt Stock Size To Begin With! Drill Out The Pop Rivet, And Get It Tuned!
    And Start By Reading The Posts In Your Own Thread!
    HOW ABOUT YOU READ POST # 1 TO START OFF. THAT'S RIGHT POST #1, WHICH CLEARLY STATES THAT A BIGGER HOLE WAS DRILLED IN BY A PREVIOUS TUNER! POST #1 ALSO MENTIONS THAT IT HAS BEEN TUNED.................TWICE! SO WHY DON'T YOU READ UP A LITTLE BIT BEFORE BEING A SMARTASS!

  4. #24
    Junior Member edcmat-l1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hurley711 View Post
    HOW ABOUT YOU READ POST # 1 TO START OFF. THAT'S RIGHT POST #1, WHICH CLEARLY STATES THAT A BIGGER HOLE WAS DRILLED IN BY A PREVIOUS TUNER! POST #1 ALSO MENTIONS THAT IT HAS BEEN TUNED.................TWICE! SO WHY DON'T YOU READ UP A LITTLE BIT BEFORE BEING A SMARTASS!
    I read it. And still recommend you get it tuned. Obviously your tuner is not capable of tuning it to remove the surge. I'm not being a smart ass, by any means. Its not any big deal to tune the thing, even with a larger than stock hole drilled.
    You post "I just learned they come with a hole from the factory" days after someone posts that very fact. Makes you look like you're not even reading your own thread.
    Tell me how stating that you just learned they come from the factory with a hole is some kind of revelation, after it was posted in your own thread days before.

  5. #25
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    silver
    2000 nhra trans am

    when i drive it awhile then stop turn the car off, like going into a store! when you restart look at your volts. below 13volts? and starts surging while backing up sometimes dieing???

  6. #26
    Member jimmy77611's Avatar
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    I think you should drill a stock size hole. Does anyone know what size the stock hole is???????????????????

  7. #27
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    Another thing that I would do, is to find someone who can do data logging while you drive. Find out what the MAF readings are, engine RPM, fuel trims, and idle air motor (how many counts do you have at idle). You want the minimum assist from the IAC motor for an improved idle. This minimum assist will determine the size of hole you should have in the TB plates. When the idle surges to 1500 RPM, what is the IAC doing? You can only get these answers with data logging.

    Good luck with your problem, I know from personal experience just how fustrating they can be.

  8. #28
    Jesus died to save you! Killer_bluebird's Avatar
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    This is what worked for me. I was having the same problem mostly with the AC on only. After trying a few other things to no avail, I copied my stock "Throttle Cracker Airflow" table (this was zeroed by previous tuner) then I went on a drive. I would hold a certain speed lets say 36mph then press the clutch. The rpms would immediately jump to like 1600-1700rpms. I would then look in the 36mph and 1600rpms value on the table and reduce it by .5 g/sec upload the tune then rinse and repeat until the rpms start falling close to your idle speed. Once closer you may want to work in .25 g/sec intervals and so on. It took me a couple hours driving around and changing values to get it nailed but it was worth it. No more hanging idle.
    2000 NBM Camaro Z28
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  9. #29
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    It really helps a ton if you can data log driving sessions. The value of this is critical for drivibility issues.

  10. #30
    TunedbyFrost.com Tuner Frost's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Killer_bluebird View Post
    This is what worked for me. I was having the same problem mostly with the AC on only. After trying a few other things to no avail, I copied my stock "Throttle Cracker Airflow" table (this was zeroed by previous tuner) then I went on a drive. I would hold a certain speed lets say 36mph then press the clutch. The rpms would immediately jump to like 1600-1700rpms. I would then look in the 36mph and 1600rpms value on the table and reduce it by .5 g/sec upload the tune then rinse and repeat until the rpms start falling close to your idle speed. Once closer you may want to work in .25 g/sec intervals and so on. It took me a couple hours driving around and changing values to get it nailed but it was worth it. No more hanging idle.


    If your running airflow is correct then you don't need to spend hours on your TC and it takes a fraction of the time. The engine acts more "natural" with the TC table zero'd. In the TC table, except for the 0 MPH row, set the 400 RPM coulumn to 1.5g to "catch" things if they dip for some reason. Also, under engine torque, there is a table to describe the tq loss at compressor onset and some ramp in and out times. This is generally what is used to adjust for AC on cammed (or wilder) cars.

  11. #31
    Jesus died to save you! Killer_bluebird's Avatar
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    I'll keep that in mind. I'm always playing with my tune as I'm learning more. So what specifically will I need to change and which way up or down, etc.?

  12. #32
    TunedbyFrost.com Tuner Frost's Avatar
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    start by incresing the top table by about 12-15% and see where that gets you. If you go to high, it will offset idle.

  13. #33
    Jesus died to save you! Killer_bluebird's Avatar
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    thx, I'll try that next time I play around with the tune.

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