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  1. #1
    Member My00Z28's Avatar
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    2000 Camaro Z28 A4

    Tuning for LQ4 Swap in 2000 Z28

    Alright guys on the 21st me and a buddy are swapping in my LQ4 I put together for my turbo build... We are throwing it in N/A for a bit to get the thing broke in...
    I am fairly new to tuning so my question is what i will have to do or look for to get this thing tuned in...
    It is a 2002 LQ4.
    • EPP Blower Cam
      Cam specs are:
      Dur @ .050 232 int 240 exh
      Lift .595 int .608 exh
      Lobe Sep 115.0
    • LS6 Intake
    • Stock 2000 LS1 Injectors
    • LT Headers
    • Stock 317 heads with Patriot Xtrem Valve Springs
    • SLP Intake
    • Ported Throttle Body
    • EGR & AIR Delete


    Any advice on stuff i can mess with to get it running and idling well would be much appreciated...

  2. #2
    She-Member jrbonds's Avatar
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    2002 WS6
    1965 Mustang

    Send your computer to Frost, a sponsor here. Or find someone local. Ask fellow car people in your area.

    Also might want to check with the local dyno shops to see who they recommend.
    Last edited by jrbonds; 09-08-2012 at 09:23 AM.

  3. #3
    Member My00Z28's Avatar
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    2000 Camaro Z28 A4

    Well I have access to a HP Tuners. And can probably get on a dyno also pretty easy. My question is what would be the main things to look at/adjust?

  4. #4
    She-Member jrbonds's Avatar
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    2002 WS6
    1965 Mustang

    Dude. Take it to a professional with those mods. Those hand tuners are for better for basic stuff. Especially if you have to ask a forum. Don't chance it.

  5. #5
    Member My00Z28's Avatar
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    2000 Camaro Z28 A4

    Hand tuner? It's a laptop tuner? HPTuners.com >> Performance At Your Fingertips

  6. #6
    Veteran Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Hptuners is the way to go

    Since you have HPtuner Frost can email tunes back and forth and get you dialed in easily enough without having to send out the computer. Quick and easy,,,,so that's an option.

    If not there are some other vary knowledgable tuners here. Orion has helped me out a ton figuring the HPtuner software out over the years. I'm sure with that cam you'll be fiddling with the idle trims.

    I assume you'll be changing those stock injectors when the blower goes on too,,,,so the injector tables will change. In the mean time that's not a concern.

    Hopefully you have a wideband to use?

  7. #7
    Member My00Z28's Avatar
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    2000 Camaro Z28 A4

    I emailed him last night. Asking about getting help... And the fuel system isn't going to go on till the turbo does...
    Thanks for the input

  8. #8
    REAPER Z28 reaper ws6's Avatar
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    Navy Blue Metallic/Black
    02 camaro z28/01 wife t/a

    nice can you down load that system for free? (hptuners)

  9. #9
    Member My00Z28's Avatar
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    2000 Camaro Z28 A4

    U can get a demo version I think but it won't allow you to upload anything to your car!

  10. #10
    Veteran Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    It's a software package that you buy, and loads onto your laptop computer, and uses credits to tune each vehicle. Once locked onto each vehicle you can tune and make changes infinately without credits. About $600 or so for the pro version that works with a wideband.

    It's also a huge diagnostic tool to trouble shoot problems. Really a must have with one of these computer controlled cars in my opinion.

  11. #11
    Member My00Z28's Avatar
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    2000 Camaro Z28 A4

    Well Frost is MIA I guess???

    So you think i should start off my tune for the sway with a stock LQ4 tune? then work on idle and timing from there?

  12. #12
    TunedbyFrost.com Tuner Frost's Avatar
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    If it's forced induction, there is really no reason to run it WITHOUT the power adder unless you just don't have the power adder and need to move the car in and out of the shop or something. You don't need to be N/A to break-in an engine.

    My email is unfortunately way past overwhelming, which is why that detail is in the auto-reply that you would have received (and detailed in this other post I made: http://www.ls1.com/forums/f9/custom-...2/#post2806984 ) I am sorry for the lack of replies to many messages, I do as much as I can though.

    The other simple fact is that it takes 2-3x as long to tune a car through email (because of the huge detailed emails that have to go back and forth basically training users/owners) as it does to tune on in person, and it pays LESS than tuning one car in person. Simple logic dictates that when I am swamped, it doesn't make sense to tune through email when mail order and in-person tuning literally ends up paying 2-3x as much. Over the years I have found that Corvette guys and owners of newer cars are fine paying for the time that I work for them but many of the F-body crowd often have little respect for my working time. I recently quoted two F-body customers $275 for tuning their setups (which would be $550-600 in person; they are both forced induction) through email, and both of them balked. I get replies telling me how much they paid already for HPTuner's Pro, their wideband, and their builds (which none of was purchased through me) and telling me how that was way too much to charge for email tuning.

  13. #13
    Veteran Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    I can completely understand that Steve. Can't work for nothing, and we all have to pay the bills.
    $275 for email tuning doesn't sound bad to me, knowing that you'll get a better end result vs experimenting yourself. The fact that you offer it is a blessing in itself as some others won't even bother.

    Funny how the newer cars and vette owners don't mind flipping the bill but the Fbody owners squawk

  14. #14
    Member My00Z28's Avatar
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    2000 Camaro Z28 A4

    I also get what u are getting at and all I need is another base map tune from you and I can fine tune it... Obviously willing to pay for it for the most part.

  15. #15
    Veteran Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by My00Z28 View Post
    I also get what u are getting at and all I need is another base map tune from you and I can fine tune it... Obviously willing to pay for it for the most part.
    Might be cost effective for you to initially start with Steve's mail order tune for your combo,,,and that would give you an excellent base to tinker with from there. Mail orders are $150 from him and are excellent. You can always save it and if you tinker too far, revert back to it and start over. Just a thought...

  16. #16
    Member My00Z28's Avatar
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    Haha that's kinda what I was saying in my last post! Get a base-map to get the car running and driving then fine tune it.

  17. #17
    TunedbyFrost.com Tuner Frost's Avatar
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    That can be done and sent through email. The trouble with it in many cases (would be fine here) is that those tuning are new and want to be able to up all of their tunes to the web on this or that forum for help and a condition of working through email is maintaining confidentiality with the calibration (ie, not upping it to the web). Additionally, many need quite a bit of guidance past just sending the file over. There are basic things such as how to properly setup a throttle body on an IAC car to get the TPS voltage and IAC into range that must be done before things like the base cal's idle airflow will be in the range to keep the car properly running at idle and moving idle (rolling closed throttle). When new tuners don't understand that, they get just a base file and the car doesn't idle, the often immediately blame the tuner and one hour later the file is posted to the web so that they can have everyone look at it (since they don't understand the problem). Now, I have to take the time to write a huge email explaining TB setup and give them an idle airflow cfg to log with and explain how to do that.... and never have my OWN time covered for helping them out. That's why I very seldom will just send a file vs. going through the actual tuning process. Anyone here who has worked with me to tune through email here with a cammed (or more) car will immediately identify and tell you about the throttle body setup and idle airflow roughing in that happens before any fuel or spark tuning.

    I could send you a base cal that would be quite close all over, but if your throttle body is not setup correctly (IAC counts in range and TPS voltage under limit) the car may NEVER idle and stall while driving all over. It could also idle higher than commanded, set a high idle code, and hang at 2K when you clutch in at cruise. NONE OF THAT would be a product of the calibration, but new tuners often don't understand. Their friends that post on the web all day and tell them how bad their tune is definitely don't understand either. Don't get me wrong, I want to avoid this and have everyone's car running awesomely, but that's why just sending a file over email vs. going through at least a partial process is difficult. Most that KNOW how to do the setup and idle airflow tuning don't need me to make a base.

    All of this is a non-issue on electronic throttle cars. It's mostly limited to these F-bodies and some trucks.

    Are you sure you are going to run it N/A first?

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