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Trans tuning

This is a discussion on Trans tuning within the Computer & Tuning forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Hey guys, ive been playing with my hp tuners and i messed around with some of the settings in my ...

  1. #1
    slammed RAWPWR3's Avatar
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    Trans tuning

    Hey guys, ive been playing with my hp tuners and i messed around with some of the settings in my trans. I upped the line press., removed all tq management, and changed the shift speed and shift press. Some of the parameters were set kind of crudely, cause i just wanted to feel the difference. I cant attach the file here, but go to the link to see my "tune" and let me know what you think. Thanks
    Yulian

    http://www.hptuners.com/forum/showth...594#post143594

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    Alright im gonna try and resurect this thread... I did more research on the hp tuners forum and taking out tm entirely is a bad idea. So i went back and just multiplied the stock settings by .25 to decrease the amount of tm. I left the line press. at a slightly increased 92 psi. Now, im still kinda confused on what to do with the shift press. and speed tables. Any input would be appreciated.

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    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    I've been running with TM zero'd on my car for years with no issues. That's also with heads/cam the last year or two.
    I have line pressure @96, desired shift time set at.250, and torque management zero'd. For shift pressures I stole Russ K's method for setting up pressures and like it.


    Russ K's method:
    Quote Originally Posted by Russ K
    For the base shift pressure table, I first change the 0 ft lb column of the 1-2, 2-3 & 3-4 shift table to 0. Then change the 640 ft lb column of the 1-2, 2-3 & 3-4 shift table to 40. Now highlight the whole table & click on the "Interpolate Between Horizontal Bounds"
    button.

    Now the shift table will be 0 at the 0 ft lb column & 40 at the 640 ft lb column. Now copy this table & click the "Undo All Changes" button. Then right click on the table, go to Paste Special > Add. This will add 0 psi at the 0 ft lb column of the shift pressure table & 40 psi at the 640 ft lb column.

    The editor should clamp the max pressure to 96 psi. Also change the Max Pressure to 96, as it usually is 90 stock. If you what firmer shifts, use 50 psi at the 640 ft lb column and 30 psi for softer shifts.

    Russ Kemp

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    TunedbyFrost.com Tuner Frost's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RAWPWR3 View Post
    Alright im gonna try and resurect this thread... I did more research on the hp tuners forum and taking out tm entirely is a bad idea. So i went back and just multiplied the stock settings by .25 to decrease the amount of tm. I left the line press. at a slightly increased 92 psi. Now, im still kinda confused on what to do with the shift press. and speed tables. Any input would be appreciated.

    It's not an entirely bad idea, it's a bad idea to just zero TM on all cars as part of regular tuning though.

    You will find that, for example, cars with stock or tight stalls will want to knock from load at the shift-points. You don't want to lower the HO table because of that, but letting TM pull a few degs at the shift would work well.... this is only 1 example, and there are other uses for it as well.

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    Thanks for responding gents. And thanks for that little right up Orion, another member on the hp tuners forum was trying to explain it to me, but i just didnt get it. But it makes much more sense like that, ill have to try it out later. Thats pretty cool that youve been running with no tm for awhile even with h/c, it gives me hope, lol. But may i ask if you have a built tranny or is it stock, cause mine is with the exception of a b&m cooler. Would you mind giving me youre opinion Frost; on what to set my tm settings to. When i ran it totally zeroed out, with the shift press and shift time tables altered, it pulled really hard and the shifts were fast and firm, so i dont think it was knocking any that it pulled timing. But i cant be sure cause i didnt scan it. My mods are below, i know every car is different but for example in Orion's case its been working fine. I currently have it reduced, not zeroed out, so im open to opinions on what would be best for me. Keep in mind that id rather be on the safe side, so i wouldnt mind not zeroing it out entirely. Thanks again guys.
    Last edited by RAWPWR3; 09-30-2008 at 09:34 PM.

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    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    I'm on the stock tranny with a 3500 stall and cooler. If you're wanting to stay as safe as possible then just reduce it instead of removing it altogether. Just take 50% out or something.

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    Thanks again man, also if you dont mind me asking, do you have a shift kit or is the trans just tuned? Any pros or cons to having one or the other? And one more thing, under the engine section in tm, i have zeroed out the spark vs. torque reduction table and torque loss %. What are youre thoughts on that? A member at hpt recomend that i only mess with the spark vs.torque reduction table and only reduce it by 50%.

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    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    I *think* the torque loss % is just used to determine how much torque it's lost vs timing pulled. I have all those tables zero'd but if I were reducing just one I would reduce spark vs torque reduction table. I think that's probably the proper way to do it. That way you're reducing the actual amount of spark instead of the amount reported. Maybe frost will chime in and clear it up but I think that's the right way.
    I don't run a shift kit but will at some point. I'd prefer the kit but to be honest I didn't expect the tranny to last this long and didn't want to do the work twice. I've just firmed up shifts and what not with tuning. Works for me but I'm sure a good built tranny with a shift kit would be a night and day difference over what I'm running now.

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    Orion is right in line with my thinking as well.

    I simply removed all of my torque management, and have had no issues at all. I went into the trans tuning with the thought that,,,,eventually I would be rebuilding it anyway with better parts and didn't care if it took itself apart. Been nearly 2 years or so since and it's still kicking. I have recently installed a 3,400 converter as well. I skipped the shift kit as Orion stated,,,I figured I would be inside of it eventually when something breaks so I will wait. Until then the increase in line pressures and modifying shift times have satisfied me just fine.

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    TunedbyFrost.com Tuner Frost's Avatar
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    I have never seen any correlation between early trans failure and zero-ing TM. When I adjust it, starting with the tables stock, I just reduce tq reduction>normal table by some % overall. The jerk it makes in the timing OE really kills the engine's momentum but as I noted, some tightly stalled cars can knock under load in shifts. If you see no KR in logging, I'd say it's fine.

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    Thanks alot for all the input guys, i really appreciate it. I got alot of help outta this thread, and i feel alot more confident going into this having a little better understanding of what im doing and hearing some stories of good turn outs using this same method. Ill be playing around with the trans settings some more now and ill let you know how it turns out. Next up is tuning the motor...

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    I just left my engine TM stock and halfed the Trans TM.
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