Stock 2000 Camaro SS Manual

[1slowbusa]

I have a Bone Stock Manual 2000 Camaro SS. I have the HP Tuners software and was wondering if there was anything I could do to get anymore power out of the car?
Changing the AFR at WOT from 11.7 to 12???
Changing the VE tables???
Or is the stock tune giving the car all the available power with being stock??
Thanks

[2000]

I probably wouldnt even bother. Unless there is a reason that warrants it, I wouldnt change much until I at least was at the point where I had headers on the car. You might get a small gain but nothing to be excited about.

[pajeff02]

My understanding is that a tune can add anywhere from 15 to 20 hp to an essentially stock engine. The trouble is knowing what changes to make and what to leave alone. I wouldn't mess with the VE table unless you actually set up an air-fuel gauge on the car and disable the appropriate engine sensors to map your engine's true VE. Using this information, you can then begin to make the appropriate changes -- however, unless you have mods, such as a lid, headers, etc, the stock VE table is probably pretty close.

Also, why randomly lean out the WOT AFR? If you go too far you'll simply bring in KR and that will essentially result in a net loss, in addition to the fact that knock is just not good for the engine in the first place.

[1slowbusa]

Thanks for the replies. I am new to the tuning world and was just wondering of any minor changes that i could do to stock before mods. Just to get my hands wet in the HP Tuner Software.

[Frost]

Easy and safe changes include:

Skip-shift elimination
lowering fan temps
Turning off COT (it's just a WOT fuel adder)
removing top speed limiter

There's more, but it depends on what you know.

[Sweet Chops]

Easy and safe changes include:

Skip-shift elimination
lowering fan temps
Turning off COT (it's just a WOT fuel adder)
removing top speed limiter

There's more, but it depends on what you know.

What are the benefits of turning of your COT?

[2001camaroSS]

I have a Bone Stock Manual 2000 Camaro SS. I have the HP Tuners software and was wondering if there was anything I could do to get anymore power out of the car?
Changing the AFR at WOT from 11.7 to 12???
Changing the VE tables???
Or is the stock tune giving the car all the available power with being stock??
Thanks

Send your PCM to Frost. For $150 or so you can't go wrong. He knows what he is doing and is very prompt.

[Firebirdjones]

What are the benefits of turning of your COT?

COT is a fuel adder for the cat converters, to keep them cool. It skews the WOT AFR when it's still operative. If the cats are removed there is no need for it anymore.

[Firebirdjones]

Thanks for the replies. I am new to the tuning world and was just wondering of any minor changes that i could do to stock before mods. Just to get my hands wet in the HP Tuner Software.

Since you invested in HPtuner I would suggest reading up on their website. Tons of information over there. A few guys that are helpfull as well when you have questions.

I did the same as you. Figured if I was going to own these cars for the long haul the first thing I wanted to sink money into was tuning software. The ability to diagnose problems and log datat alone makes it worthwhile. Keep in mind I'm not a computer fan and knew nothing of tuning with software but I'd either take the plunge or sell the cars, that's pretty much how I felt about it. Still learning more and it's been a few years.

When mine was bone stock, I fiddled with the tune. First changing the little things like Frost mentioned, it's pretty easy and you can't really mess anything up. Get used to reflashing the car and such. From there I found nice gains on mine while it was still a stocker.
For some reason my fueling was way off with LTFT's constantly red on one bank, but the car ran great and I couldn't find any vacuum leaks. So I dug in and started tuning the VE tables using FT's. Takes longer and is time consuming, not as accurate as using a wideband, but it did straighten out the LTFT's while logging. Throttle response improved and gas mileage was better. Played a bit with shift points and firmness. I picked up a solid 3 tenths and 3 mph at the track from the stock tune to the tune I fiddled with and really didn't dig all that deep. I still had a pretty fat WOT AFR too.
From there I did a few bolts ons and Frost helped me with several other things in the tune that really improved the car even more.

My car is probably a freak example from what I'm told but I've been pretty happy with HPtuner, now with 2 4th gens it's more than paid for itself. Goodluck with it, and read read read over at HPtuners site, then ask questions, you'll get it figured out. Save your stock tune before any changes and you can always revert back to it.

[Firebirdjones]

Send your PCM to Frost. For $150 or so you can't go wrong. He knows what he is doing and is very prompt.

Not necessary to send the PCM now. Since slow busa already has HPtuner he can simply pay Frost and he can email the tune.
Would be a nice way to go about it, and much faster. And when changes are made to the car they can simply email tunes back and forth.

I've done that with Frost on a few things before. And to be honest since I'm planning to install an LS6 crate motor that pretty much throws my current tune out the window, I plan to just pay Frost for a completely new tune, simply email it and flash it in. Gives me a new tune to start with that I know works well right off the bat.
Frost, you'll have more business coming your way in the near future.

[Cutlass]

Here's a decent website that one of our Moderators made. It shows some the easy basic stuff to mess with.
http://tredalign.com/hptuners.htm

[Firebirdjones]

I think that would be Mrr23 maybe? He started one a while back. Very informative and helpfull. I didn't look but maybe this is a different one.

[1slowbusa]

Thanks again for all the helpfull information. I have been reading up on the HP tuners website and fiddled around in the software a bit. I have disabled the egr, airpump and 1-4 skip shift. I did save the stock program before making any changes.

Question:
I just moved to PA and and the state requires am readiness (emission) testing. I just had mine done last saturday before I started playing with the HP tuners. I have had an ls6 intake airlid, and close to all the parts for a cam for about a year now. I was thinking this winter was going to be the time to do the install. But if i do the install then next year i will not pass the emissions testing.

Catalyst
Heated Catalyst
evaporative system
secondary air system
oxygen sensor
EGR system

How do i get past the codes for egr and secondary air system. I believe i can buy the O2 simulators for the rear O2 sensor to ge past the Oxygen sensor emissions test. (Correct me if im wrong please) I spoke to the shop that did my E testing and they told me i have to get an ECU from a model that came with no EGR and airpump and install it in my car. Is this true or is there a way around it. Also I want to run no cats, is this possible and still live in PA?

[Firebirdjones]

I'm not familiar with how PA does any of their testing. If it's a simple plug in to check for codes and no visual, then you can delete the codes in the tune to read no SES light.

If you have a visual check or a sniffer, then I'm not sure what you could do. Maybe others will chime in that have actually done this. Frost is from PA, I'm sure he can give you some insite as well as many others here.

[Cutlass]

I believe if you tune out the trouble codes for the system you no longer have, then the status will come up as "ready" (or maybe "complete") or it might come up as N/A (not available). That should allow you to pass. As long as it doesn't say Not Ready (or maybe its Not Complete) you should pass. Unless you run into a savvy emission test technician who knows better, but most are told to just look for Not Ready.
You have to turn the codes to "No report"

[pajeff02]

^^ This sounds right from what I have read.