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Thread: SLP IAT Sensor: Worth it?
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03-19-2007, 11:12 AM #1
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- Oct 2005
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- Oklahoma
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- 37
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Red- 2000 WS6
SLP IAT Sensor: Worth it?
SLP sells an IAT sensor that jumps the timing a couple of degrees. I was wondering if this would prove useful? Or is it a bunch of bs like the smooth bellow they sell LoL Was just wondering before I drop 20 bucks on it. Seems like advancing the spark a few degrees could prove useful. Every little bit counts right? Thanks for your time.
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03-19-2007, 12:25 PM #2
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- Aug 2005
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- North Hollywood, Ca
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Onyx Black- 2001 Camaro SS
All it is, is a resistor that tricks the ECM into thinking the Air temp is about 32 degrees. It can prove fatal to your engine if it knocks. Save your money for real mods.
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03-19-2007, 01:45 PM #3
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- Oct 2005
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- calif.
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- 214
Knock retard system will take out the timing if there is pinging--you can buy those resistors at Radio Shack--they are $ .99 for 5 of them---Can't remember which one to get--Also you can buy that same mod if you don't want to fab your own way cheaper several places (EB)---It does add timing so you should run better gas & it will add small amounts of HP.
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03-19-2007, 05:11 PM #4
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- Jul 2005
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- Jacksonville, FL
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Save your money. JMO
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03-19-2007, 05:16 PM #5
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- Aug 2005
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- Thornton, CO
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Red Tint Jewelcoat- 2008 Trailblazer SS
Bullshit mod.
I have one from my rookie modding days if you still want it.
Can't find anyone to buy it.
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03-20-2007, 06:54 PM #6
Change the TIMING w/ your PLUG SPACING!!!
I have a mild-hot cam w/ hardened rods and springs. My idie was all over and I drastically SPACED MY PLUGS from 45 to 66....
It has made a good difference. Now, according to an Corvette Speciality shop IN TEXAS. (The owner of the rip old age of 61 and still gets under the car)
He told me that the space changes the amount of resistance the electric current going from the tip of the electrode to the metal arch over it tip. THEREFORE changing the timing in that distance on the PLUG changes the timing of ignition ON the PLUG. This works by getting more fuel in the compession chambers and THEN ignition. MORE FUEL, LESS FOULED OUT PLUGS!!! My plug tips were WHITE meaning TOO HOTT! here's
45 or LESS. is good for HIGH REVing engines. (and was the standard back in the 60s/70s muscle cars) FOR DRAG RACING,
46-55 was for average/NORMAL what you would see on any V6 today.
56 -65 or more is for DEISEL engines and LOW REVing Engines like VW jettas and crap.
you don't need multiple tips triple and quad tips on your plugs - just a gimmick!!
YOU DO NEED BETTER METALS!! iridium, platinium etc.
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05-13-2007, 06:04 PM #7
whats the gap for my 99 ls1 trans am?
It has denzo's in it now with about 60,000km's on them, can they be gapped (irridium)?
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05-15-2007, 12:48 AM #8
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- Apr 2007
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Red- 2002 T/A
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05-15-2007, 06:13 AM #9
- Join Date
- Oct 2005
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- calif.
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- 214
Diesels with spark plugs--????
I think the spark gap thing is a tuning trick from the 60's with points--Wth todays computer controlled ignitions not really useful--Even in racing with MSD and CD ignitions the coil saturation nowadays is so much better--With a single coil the recc. gap with MSD is about .045---But with the advent of coil on plug with 8 coils the coil now saturates every 8th time so you could get gaps of .060 on a gen 3 Chev. and high saturation times-
The bigger the gap the more chance of plug misfire---making the plug the weakest point in the ignition system. Rather than the wires and in the past the distrib. cap.
Racing magnetos still use .016 plug gaps.
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05-15-2007, 12:02 PM #10
I experimented with plug gaps on my 454 when I had it on the dyno and running an MSD digital 6 box and distributor.
Stock for this engine was .035 with points,,,,I tried .045 and .060 and it did nothing on the dyno. So I just went back to the stock .035 so the ignition system doesn't have to work so hard. Larry.
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