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new cam tune

This is a discussion on new cam tune within the Computer & Tuning forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; im running hp tuners software, where would you guys start tuning. 220/224 112lsa, ported 241 heads, and 2800 stall. car ...

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    cutting and welding mark21742's Avatar
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    new cam tune

    im running hp tuners software, where would you guys start tuning.
    220/224 112lsa, ported 241 heads, and 2800 stall. car starts and idles great, revs great....but going down the road when coming to a stop it dies.
    i bumped the idle to 1000 rpms to get good idle. do i need to go higher?

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    Junior Member edcmat-l1's Avatar
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    Need to increase the base idle airflow a bit.

    The most accurate way is to histogram it from a cold start, but just adding 1 across the table will probably help the stalling.

    Need to probably increase the idle timing too. That will help with the idle, and return to idle.

    You should start by reading the help files. You'll get your best results from speed density tuning it. There's a help file for that too.

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    cutting and welding mark21742's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by edcmat-l1 View Post
    Need to increase the base idle airflow a bit.

    The most accurate way is to histogram it from a cold start, but just adding 1 across the table will probably help the stalling.

    Need to probably increase the idle timing too. That will help with the idle, and return to idle.

    You should start by reading the help files. You'll get your best results from speed density tuning it. There's a help file for that too.
    my idle air controler was maxing out, so i gave the set screw about 1/2 turn and that made it ALOT better.
    im running an SD tune right now, so i can adjust it for my new setup....lol i know just enough about it to really screw things up....thank God i save every time so i can reflash my old tune.

    il sit down and read about the histograms

    thank you!

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    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    yep, start with the idle histogram and get your base tables nailed down then go from there. Where is your timing at idle now?

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    cutting and welding mark21742's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 0rion View Post
    yep, start with the idle histogram and get your base tables nailed down then go from there. Where is your timing at idle now?
    i just got the histograms up this morning and hope to get a few hours to mess with it tomorrow morning after work.....im still amazed at how much is in hptuners.

    but on a good note i did get it to idle pretty good and played with the fuel and timing alittle with 0 knock retard

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    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    do you have a wideband to tune with? If not I would put that at the very top of your list of things to buy. It really helps out a lot and is definitely worth the investment especially when you start doing your part throttle and wot stuff.

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    cutting and welding mark21742's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 0rion View Post
    do you have a wideband to tune with? If not I would put that at the very top of your list of things to buy. It really helps out a lot and is definitely worth the investment especially when you start doing your part throttle and wot stuff.
    no i dont have one yet, but trust me its on the top of the wish list

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    Junior Member blackonblackws6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mark21742 View Post
    im running hp tuners software, where would you guys start tuning.
    220/224 112lsa, ported 241 heads, and 2800 stall. car starts and idles great, revs great....but going down the road when coming to a stop it dies.
    i bumped the idle to 1000 rpms to get good idle. do i need to go higher?
    Have you gotten any were with your tuning? I've got basicly the same set up my cam is a 224/228 -lsa112 doesn't run for shit. poor idle hard start, just my luck

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    cutting and welding mark21742's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by blackonblackws6 View Post
    Have you gotten any were with your tuning? I've got basicly the same set up my cam is a 224/228 -lsa112 doesn't run for shit. poor idle hard start, just my luck
    yup ive got it pretty good now, going to try and do alittle more tweaking this weekend.
    are you running hp tuners too?

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    Junior Member blackonblackws6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mark21742 View Post
    yup ive got it pretty good now, going to try and do alittle more tweaking this weekend.
    are you running hp tuners too?
    no, Jet DTS. I'm a newb, kinda lost. just wondering how yours was coming and what major changes you did to get it idling. what p/n rpm do you have to set yours at?

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    cutting and welding mark21742's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by blackonblackws6 View Post
    no, Jet DTS. I'm a newb, kinda lost. just wondering how yours was coming and what major changes you did to get it idling. what p/n rpm do you have to set yours at?
    did you get yours any closer yet, was I any help?

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    Junior Member blackonblackws6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mark21742 View Post
    did you get yours any closer yet, was I any help?
    yeah, thanks
    I still have work to do but it starts and runs. still wants to surge a little, but it'll get on a trailer and make the trip to the dyno tune. I think thats the only way to make it perfect and have the most and safe power.
    thanks again

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    cutting and welding mark21742's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 0rion View Post
    yep, start with the idle histogram and get your base tables nailed down then go from there. Where is your timing at idle now?
    my timing at idle is bouncing all over the place, but smooths out as soon as I come off idle. is this because of the computer trying to hold the desired idle speed with spark advance/retard, and is this normal?
    cold idle speed is set at 1015 rpms and drops off to 850 rpms full temp idle.
    also right now I have my SLP (yes I know) MAF hooked back up with the SLP calibration table from another guys car. I was running in SD before, should I just unhook it and run SD again.
    if I unhook it, and set all MAF tables to 0 and set maf failure codes to (3) no error no report will that let the car run good and stop codes from popping (to get it through emissions)
    before I just unplugged the maf and had the code set to (2) no mil light

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    Junior Member blackonblackws6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mark21742 View Post
    my timing at idle is bouncing all over the place, but smooths out as soon as I come off idle. is this because of the computer trying to hold the desired idle speed with spark advance/retard, and is this normal?
    cold idle speed is set at 1015 rpms and drops off to 850 rpms full temp idle.
    also right now I have my SLP (yes I know) MAF hooked back up with the SLP calibration table from another guys car. I was running in SD before, should I just unhook it and run SD again.
    if I unhook it, and set all MAF tables to 0 and set maf failure codes to (3) no error no report will that let the car run good and stop codes from popping (to get it through emissions)
    before I just unplugged the maf and had the code set to (2) no mil light
    Hey Mark,
    Dude I have been reading and reading about this crap for weeks now. Mostly what I have realized is without data logging you will probly never get the tune correct, close maybe. Run the stock MAF and stock MAF table all the pro's can't be wrong. The SLP MAF should be the same size you have stock, right? one main issue is the cam (112lsa) is lowering the manifold vacume. I needed to raise the idle air flow a bit. got my idle @ 750rpm hot, no stalling and fairly smooth. (My cam has a step more duration). Sorry if I just told you every thing you already know. I still have more work to do though. I will probly have it done by a real pro before it hits the streets/track for the summer though. I just want it to run and get on a trailer to the dyno

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    cutting and welding mark21742's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by blackonblackws6 View Post
    Hey Mark,
    Dude I have been reading and reading about this crap for weeks now. Mostly what I have realized is without data logging you will probly never get the tune correct, close maybe. Run the stock MAF and stock MAF table all the pro's can't be wrong. The SLP MAF should be the same size you have stock, right? one main issue is the cam (112lsa) is lowering the manifold vacume. I needed to raise the idle air flow a bit. got my idle @ 750rpm hot, no stalling and fairly smooth. (My cam has a step more duration). Sorry if I just told you every thing you already know. I still have more work to do though. I will probly have it done by a real pro before it hits the streets/track for the summer though. I just want it to run and get on a trailer to the dyno
    i was running SD before, but decided to try the SLP that i had laying here lol, its back off again now.
    i have mine down to 850 hot, and im sure after i do some more tuning i can get it back down alittle lower.
    ive been doing some data logging, but been very busy....this weekend is me and my car time
    was i able to help you out at all the other weekend?

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    Junior Member blackonblackws6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mark21742 View Post
    i was running SD before, but decided to try the SLP that i had laying here lol, its back off again now.
    i have mine down to 850 hot, and im sure after i do some more tuning i can get it back down alittle lower.
    ive been doing some data logging, but been very busy....this weekend is me and my car time
    was i able to help you out at all the other weekend?
    yeah it got me in the right direction, which leads me to other stuff. got it close, its truly a learning process.
    take care

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    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    what does your idle air look like? Have you added any timing to your idle? That made a pretty substantial difference in how smooth my car idled when I was doing mine. I went into the vcm controls and manually added timing a degree or two at a time until the idle smoothed out. They used to say until the map pressure bottomed out but that's changed over the last year or two so now they say not at the bottom of the map but a few degrees before. I found my idle to be best at 23-25 degrees. Before you worry to much on the idle timing I would get that RAF table worked out.

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    cutting and welding mark21742's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 0rion View Post
    what does your idle air look like? Have you added any timing to your idle? That made a pretty substantial difference in how smooth my car idled when I was doing mine. I went into the vcm controls and manually added timing a degree or two at a time until the idle smoothed out. They used to say until the map pressure bottomed out but that's changed over the last year or two so now they say not at the bottom of the map but a few degrees before. I found my idle to be best at 23-25 degrees. Before you worry to much on the idle timing I would get that RAF table worked out.
    lol now that i got plug wire #6 plugged back in it runs alot better lol.
    i added 2 acrossed the board for the idle air, added i think 2 degrees to idle spark to get it to idle good. took my ltft adjustments, copy\paste special, and multiplied by 50% one time.....now going to data log on the way to work tonight again.
    i ordered my wideband o2 today from lsxtune.com so that will help too!
    RAF table or do you mean MAF table?

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    Junior Member edcmat-l1's Avatar
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    You're spark should bounce around at idle. It's using it to try and stabilize the idle. It reacts faster than the IAC.

    For tuning the fuel tables, just disable your long terms in the tune, and run off the sort terms. It will make things go much quicker for you. After you get everything in line, then you can turn your long terms back on, and see what they do.

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    Junior Member edcmat-l1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 0rion View Post
    I found my idle to be best at 23-25 degrees. Before you worry to much on the idle timing I would get that RAF table worked out.
    Yeah, most of em run best around that. I usually get the vacuum as high, or low, depending how you look at it. The better you get it to idle with timing, the less throttle opening you'll need. On the Vettes, the closer you get it to optimum, the less throttle angle % you'll need.

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