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04-22-2014, 04:01 PM #1
Need retune after installing a stall??
If I was to go get my car tuned before installing a torque converter would I have to get it retuned after I install it? Reason me asking is because I am a little limited financial wise but want to drive my car already.
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04-22-2014, 04:34 PM #2
Yes a tune might be needed. Depending on the stall, if it's loose enough it usually triggers the engine misfire codes because the computer thinks the trans is slipping. So you have to go in and desensitize the engine misfire tables. Again some cars this happens, sometimes it doesn't. If it does happen the car will enter limp mode.
The other issue that sometimes happens are the full throttle upshifts that might need tweaking to stay off the rev limiter. Sometimes this happens, sometimes not.
On mine, I had engine misfire codes and had to cut that table down 50% to get it to stop. However I didn't need to tweak any shift tables. Sometimes it's the other way around for other people, and sometimes neither issues happen.
Either way, I'd install the converter first and drive it to see what happens and go from there.
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04-22-2014, 06:02 PM #3
How high do you plan on going?
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04-23-2014, 06:32 AM #4
Need retune after installing a stall??
Probably 3200-3500 stall. Right now I have a .595/.595 112, p&p 241 heads, headers, ory, ls6 intake, and slp lid. Right now I can drive it but really needs a tune, thats why I was asking if I could go get it tuned and be drivable with the stock converter. I know there would be driveability issues but would it make something go bad without a bigger converter?
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04-23-2014, 06:32 AM #5
I picked up almost 2 tenths after retuning for a 3600 FTI.
It is not totally necessary but it will help driveability.2010 Camaro SIM 2SS/RS A6
1999 TA A4 NBM
12.265 at 110.52mph
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04-23-2014, 07:03 AM #6
there's almost a 100% chance you'll need the tune with a stall. Personally I would do it right instead of driving the car early.
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04-23-2014, 07:54 AM #7
Wow, you didn't mention you had the cam before the stall. Yeah I'd get that stall in there, I agree with Orion and do it all and do it right. I wouldn't even enjoy driving that thing at all with a camshaft like that and stock tight stall converter.
Do the stall, then get a tune done for the entire setup.
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04-23-2014, 02:40 PM #8
without a tune that thing has to idle like dog shit.....surprised it even runs for more than a few seconds at a time. Save up some money and just do the tune/stall at the same time and really enjoy it instead of trying to baby it around and mostly likely just fouling the shit out of the plugs.
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04-24-2014, 06:30 AM #9
Need retune after installing a stall??
Thx guys yea ill just save up some cash then do it all together. Thx for the input
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04-25-2014, 05:19 AM #10
Like FBJ said, I had all of the issues mentioned and required a tune. I went with a 3600 and didn't have the miss fire tables problem until the 4000 converter I believe. But this was probably 4 years ago, hard to remember.
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04-25-2014, 05:37 AM #11
I had locking/unlocking issues from misfire counts and shift point problems with a 3500. Also just turning off torque management, increasing line pressures, and speeding up shifts makes a pretty nice difference. People get gung ho on mods but I've always said that they should factor in the tune with the prices and not even consider the mods without a tune. Not sure why the tune is always the one people want to hold off on......it's the most important.
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04-25-2014, 05:51 AM #12
I agree, and it's the biggest reason why I purchased HPtuners. You almost can't change a part on these things without tweaking something in the tune.
I think the biggest issue is the fact that everything is computer controlled and I know for alot of owners it's just a pain in the rump (and expensive) to go get tuned every time you turn a wrench on the darn thing. It's part of the headaches of owning a computer controlled car. Not like the old days when you can jump under the hood with a screw driver and make the car happy again.
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