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My Z28 doesnt start.Security lite on???

This is a discussion on My Z28 doesnt start.Security lite on??? within the Computer & Tuning forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; I need help.I came back from the movies and when I turned the key to start my car,It sounded like ...

  1. #1
    Chevy Power LS1RacerMan30's Avatar
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    Angry My Z28 doesnt start.Security lite on???

    I need help.I came back from the movies and when I turned the key to start my car,It sounded like the starter went out.So,what I did first was pull the starter and tested it and it was good.I then by passed the starter wire and it started but shut off and the security lite started flashing.I heard that the chip in the key goes out and doesnt send the signal to the computer.So 80 bucks later and a new key and it still doesnt start.I bypassed the starter wire and the car started again for 3 seconds but shut off again.I think it can be the security or somethin but dont know where to start.I checked all my fuses in the engine cmpartment and the dash fuses and all were fine.Is there any way to bypass the key chip so my ignition will work to turn the starter over to crank my motor?Or does the ignition go out sometimes.Anyway to get my car started so I can drive it?Im tired of takin the bus everywhere.Its embarrassing man.I luv my Chevy.Cant take this torture nomore.Anyone else had this problem and resolved it?Please give me the secret.Very depressed and confused.Darrell

  2. #2
    Simpsons Did it!! 98formy's Avatar
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    83 Z28 new project
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    Do you have an alarm with starter diable?
    TSP Torquer V2 cam, ported heads,fast 90/90 combo, LT's, 3400 stall, magnaflow CB, most other bolt ons, full suspension, t-top and HID conversion

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    Chevy Power LS1RacerMan30's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 98formy View Post
    Do you have an alarm with starter diable?
    I have a Viper alarm but I disconnected it.I also bypassed the starter kill and used a test lite to see if the ignition was sending a 12 volt positive current to the starter wire so the Ignition is fine.I think the problem might be to the ECU but not sure.

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    Simpsons Did it!! 98formy's Avatar
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    One last thing you can do is bypass the VATS all together. I dont have a diagram right off hand to do it, however, you can search it out on the net and find one. If that does not solve the problem, then its possible its the ECM, but I am not sure about that.

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    If the car is turning over normally probably not VATS...but the light is on...so I'd check out http://shbox.com/1/pass_key.html

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    no more 4th gen secondgearscratch's Avatar
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    pop start it and worry about it tomorrow!!!!

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    Its sounds like VATS if the security light is on. Can you try another key?

    Also it could be the ignition relay. Try removing it and using one of the fan relays to test.

    My friends car also wouldn't start and it was the relay. It would crank, but not start. But his security light wasn't on.

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    Member OreoLt1's Avatar
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    Most of the time(from personal experience) when this issue occurs the two wires that run from the ign. lock cyclinder are damaged(inside the lock cycl.) and the lock cyclinder needs to be replaced. If you do try another key make sure that the resistor pellet in the keys are the same resistance!

    If you decide to bypass the VATS the connector you need to look for is underneath the driver side pick panel, should be clipped to the right side of the sterring column on a small bracket. Small black connector with two wires.

    And this only pertains to the vehicle if it is not cranking. If it cranks, but no start you might look at fuel pressure, spark, crank snsr signal, etc.

    Hope this helps.

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    I had this exact same thing happen not to long ago with my own car. Oreo is right.. it's Vats. What happened in my car was that the resistence in my ignition changed from wear and tear. And when the resistence from the pellet in your key, matched up with the ignition are off from each-other even the slightest your car basically goes into lock-down. Call a lock-smith. They'll bring over a tool to look at both resistences and see which one is messing up. There are three things you can do.

    Cheapest-Have the lock-smith solder a resister in your ignition to match the resistence to your key. (You will have no security against car thieves)
    Cheaper-Get a new key to match the new resistence in the worn ignition
    Not so cheap-Go to your local dealer and buy a new ignition (Set back around $300)

    Good luck!

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    Chevy Power LS1RacerMan30's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by OreoLt1 View Post
    Most of the time(from personal experience) when this issue occurs the two wires that run from the ign. lock cyclinder are damaged(inside the lock cycl.) and the lock cyclinder needs to be replaced. If you do try another key make sure that the resistor pellet in the keys are the same resistance!

    If you decide to bypass the VATS the connector you need to look for is underneath the driver side pick panel, should be clipped to the right side of the sterring column on a small bracket. Small black connector with two wires.

    And this only pertains to the vehicle if it is not cranking. If it cranks, but no start you might look at fuel pressure, spark, crank snsr signal, etc.

    Hope this helps.
    Its my other 1995 Camaro having problems.I tried to llok for the black 2 prong plug but couldnt find it.Maybe because my cars older and it might be different.But for sure its the VATS.Any Pics of what it looks like and How can I bypass the Vats to see if my car will start?Thanks.

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    Chevy Power LS1RacerMan30's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2001NBMZ28 View Post
    If the car is turning over normally probably not VATS...but the light is on...so I'd check out http://shbox.com/1/pass_key.html
    Thanks for the link guy.Theres alot of shit on there that will save me a grip of money.Im gonna troubleshoot the car and fix the problem.Ill let U guys know what it was.Thanks again.

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    Chevy Power LS1RacerMan30's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by secondgearscratch View Post
    pop start it and worry about it tomorrow!!!!
    I wish I could but its automatic.Im SOL either way...

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    Chevy Power LS1RacerMan30's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2001NBMZ28 View Post
    If the car is turning over normally probably not VATS...but the light is on...so I'd check out http://shbox.com/1/pass_key.html

    U were right.The motor doesnt turn over.It did only because I ran a seperate wire directly to the starter only it doesnt stay running because the VATS shuts down the fuel to the injectors.But Im gonna try to bypass the key cylinder first with resistor and see if it works.If not,Ill try to bypass the TDR relay.but hey,thanks for the help and info.Ill see if I can get it running in the next few days because I gotta play with alot of wires.

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    Senior Member Danger731's Avatar
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    Call a locksmith out like above !, Sorry to hear about this, I know it sux but it will pass. Keep us up to date bro !

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    Thanks MBNZ28 for the link and thanks Oreo for the info because it was the key cylinder.What I did was I measured the resistance on the key then disconnected the 2 wire prong and put the key in and there was no resistance from the key side so I cut the 2 wires from the 2 wire prong and soldered each wire on the extra key I bought on the pellet.The security lite went off and the car started.Yay.Im so fuckin happy,I dont have to take the God Damn bus nomore.Thanks to all of U guys who helped me and gave me input.50 bucks was woth it because the cheating fuckin dealer was gonna charge me 600 bucks to fix it.Props to all of U who helped me.Thanks guys

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    My car is still startin fine.No more problems.I do have to order a new lock cylinder for my Z28.How much are those key cylinders?Thanks guys

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    Member OreoLt1's Avatar
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    Prices vary from place to place but we(my shop) get them and install them for around $250-$285. Not exactly sure on the price.

    Glad we could help!

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    Chevy Power LS1RacerMan30's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by OreoLt1 View Post
    Prices vary from place to place but we(my shop) get them and install them for around $250-$285. Not exactly sure on the price.

    Glad we could help!
    Hey Oreo,Do U have a link to your website so I can check it out?Thanks

  19. #19
    Member OreoLt1's Avatar
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    We don't have a website, it's just a privately owned automotive shop in Florida. Sorry I couldn't have helped you out on that part.

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