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LC-1 install

This is a discussion on LC-1 install within the Computer & Tuning forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Originally Posted by 0rion I would at least keep the LC1 on a separate circuit. Maybe run 1 hot for ...

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by 0rion View Post
    I would at least keep the LC1 on a separate circuit. Maybe run 1 hot for that and run another out and use a junction box like pictured above and draw power from that and fuse those individually.

    Everything is being individually fused so there would really be no difference with or without a junction box -- each of the units would draw power from a single source. I have the gauges mounted, the hole drilled in the A-pillar trim, and the LED and calibration switch are mounted. That's it for tonight.

    Almost forgot... the interface to HP Tuners is something like the brown wire hooked to the first slot in the junction block that plugs to the MVPI? Can't recall the color code, but I believe that is what I understood from the instructions. Does this sound right?
    Last edited by pajeff02; 06-19-2010 at 07:14 PM. Reason: Added question.

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    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    what I was saying was use one of the 1/4" slots in the fuse box for the wideband and then double up on the other slot.....that way the wideband is by itself.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 0rion View Post
    what I was saying was use one of the 1/4" slots in the fuse box for the wideband and then double up on the other slot.....that way the wideband is by itself.

    I only have one (1) switched slot open in the entire box.

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    Member luvmyz28's Avatar
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    Im slowly installing my lc-1 as well. I know I posted about this a year ago. lol
    I've been putting this thing off after reading about the troubles of getting it to read the same on hp tuners. So I figure what the hell, if it gives me too much trouble I'll just get rid of it.

    Anyway as of now I have my lc-1 box in the car sitting under the carpet on drivers side with the sensor cable running out the hole in the floor where a rubber plug was. I ran the cables/wires under the dash to the passenger side for hooking up to the laptop and I plan on putting the guage in the glove box.

    As far as 12volt power I am planning on getting that from the plug that my bank 1 rear o2 was plugged into and running that wire inside to a terminal strip like Orion used. I just cut off the old o2 sensor and will just use the 12volt power from the plug only. I figure it should work being that it was powering the heater for the rear o2 right? I'll find out anyway.

    Ground I figure on running off the ground strap on the right side head to a terminal strip inside as well.

    Hopefully I can do most of this tonight. I'll post up if it all works.

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    Looks like we all have a different wire run. I am coming up over the collector and behind the heat shield, passing the wiring under the brake booster and then through the firewall. Seemed to be the shortest and safest routing.

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    Quote Originally Posted by luvmyz28 View Post
    Im slowly installing my lc-1 as well. I know I posted about this a year ago. lol
    I've been putting this thing off after reading about the troubles of getting it to read the same on hp tuners. So I figure what the hell, if it gives me too much trouble I'll just get rid of it.

    Anyway as of now I have my lc-1 box in the car sitting under the carpet on drivers side with the sensor cable running out the hole in the floor where a rubber plug was. I ran the cables/wires under the dash to the passenger side for hooking up to the laptop and I plan on putting the guage in the glove box.

    As far as 12volt power I am planning on getting that from the plug that my bank 1 rear o2 was plugged into and running that wire inside to a terminal strip like Orion used. I just cut off the old o2 sensor and will just use the 12volt power from the plug only. I figure it should work being that it was powering the heater for the rear o2 right? I'll find out anyway.

    Ground I figure on running off the ground strap on the right side head to a terminal strip inside as well.

    Hopefully I can do most of this tonight. I'll post up if it all works.
    Let me know when you get it in and are ready to log it with hptuner and I'll walk you through getting your offset taken care of.....you're gonna have that ground offset no matter what brand of wideband you run. Easy to adjust for it in hptuners.

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    It took a lot longer than I planned, but I think everything is wired. Just have to attach the ground and then go through the calibration sequence on the wideband. Still awaiting a schrader valve fitting to attach the fuel pressure sender to the rail.

    The brown wire from the LC-1 is wired to the wideband gauge. This leaves the yellow wire as my only analog output. I assume this is what gets wired to the harness block on the MPVI?

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    Member luvmyz28's Avatar
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    Thanks Orion.
    I worked on it a bit tonight. I didnt get as far as I would have liked to. I made my connector for the 12 volt power and ran it and the ground inside. Hopefully I will get to the point of at least having it ready to hook up to the laptop soon.
    I've got some other stuff going on this weekend. So it may not be till next week.

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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    It took a lot longer than I planned, but I think everything is wired. Just have to attach the ground and then go through the calibration sequence on the wideband. Still awaiting a schrader valve fitting to attach the fuel pressure sender to the rail.

    The brown wire from the LC-1 is wired to the wideband gauge. This leaves the yellow wire as my only analog output. I assume this is what gets wired to the harness block on the MPVI?
    yes and you'll have to go in with the lc-1's software and program that output. I'll put all this info up tomorrow night....I'm dog tired right now and heading to bed. Been a long day.

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    I see on the HP Tuners site that they recommend re-scaling the output range as well. I did read the instructions about hooking the LC-1 to a computer to change the settings, but I don't think our laptop has a serial port. May have to drag the desktop out to the garage.

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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    I see on the HP Tuners site that they recommend re-scaling the output range as well. I did read the instructions about hooking the LC-1 to a computer to change the settings, but I don't think our laptop has a serial port. May have to drag the desktop out to the garage.
    you can buy a usb to serial adapter. Mixed reviews on how well they work although when I first started tuning with edit I borrowed a friends laptop and used one on his with no issues but I forget the brand name. I could shoot him an email and ask because I just let him have the adapter when I got a laptop.

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    I'll check what I have at home, but I thought a USB adapter might work. Thanks for the help on all this!

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    Setting up a user defined pid and adjusting the ground offset:

    select the primary table in the scanner:


    right click in the EIO that you have your wideband connected to and select "insert":


    Expand user defined and double click "configure user defined":


    create a name for it and the "10" is what you change to adjust your offset:


    after you change it you'll have to save the new config.:


    now to find it you start at the beginning by right clicking in the EIO of your wideband and selecting insert and it'll be under "user defined"



    what do those numbers mean? .625 and 10?
    You have to go into the LC-1 using innovates software and program the output for you wideband. You don't "have" to but it's recommended. If you use the yellow wire for your wideband that'll be output 2. You can follow innovates instructions for programming the output but if you need more help post here and I'll make another write up for that. I don't have any of that on my desktop so I'll have to do it all on the laptop and I'm feeling lazy at the moment.
    Anyhow, I have mine set up to where 0v=10:1 and 5v=18:1. That's a difference of 8v. Hptuners is 0-5v which is 5v. 5 divided by 8= .625 so that's your first number. My AFR starts at 10 so that's the +10.

    You can program your output in the LC-1 to flatline by making the voltages the same afr but I'm way to lazy for that so I just eyeball it. Select your PID and start the car and watch what hptuners says and what your gauge says and then adjust that 10 accordingly until they line up. You'll have to do it a couple times probably before you get it figured out how much and which way it needs to go.
    The right way is to probably flatline those and line them up but it's just way easier/quicker for me to eyeball it and I can get it pretty dang close doing that. Not dead nuts so if you're anal about that sorta thing by all means do it the right way.
    Just make sure to have the car running when you're adjusting the offset.

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    Will probably tackle this on Sunday. Right now I'm just trying to get the car back together for Carlisle. I'll have to find a spot to tuck the yellow wire so it is easily accessible -- maybe at the very front of the center console on top of the tunnel. Thanks for taking the time to post this!

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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    Will probably tackle this on Sunday. Right now I'm just trying to get the car back together for Carlisle. I'll have to find a spot to tuck the yellow wire so it is easily accessible -- maybe at the very front of the center console on top of the tunnel. Thanks for taking the time to post this!
    I brought mine out from under the console just in front of the passenger seat. That way I can tuck it under the console when not using it and I can run the wires beside the passenger seat when logging so everything is out of the way if I have someone in there.

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    LC-1 is in and calibrated! Just have to button up my wire run below the brake booster and under the dash. Have to figure out my adapter fitting for the fuel pressure gauge too. Not sure if it is missing a seal...

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    Here are some pics from the rest of the install. Went for a shakedown cruise tonight and everything appears good. I won't go through the details as 0rion already provided a great write up.


















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    those are nice looking LTs w/ the extra bung & W/B

    ? how did you run the 02 sensor into the car?

    I have the AEM W/B and the 02 wire is only about 10"s before it pluges into I think is the same of the LC1 controller.

    I would prefer to keep this conecter inside car so I'm unsure of where to place the o2 bung.

    also are you reading fuel preasure on HP tuners? My Stewart warner fuel preasure sender only has one wire why doe's you'res have 2?


    Last edited by qwik219d9; 06-25-2010 at 12:18 PM.

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    Check the "running wires through the firewall" thread in the General Help section. I'd post the link, but it is difficult to do on my mobile.

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