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How to tune?

This is a discussion on How to tune? within the Computer & Tuning forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Originally Posted by 0rion I can't explain it any better than soundengineer did in this post ground offset hmmmmm, wow....

  1. #301
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    Quote Originally Posted by 0rion View Post
    I can't explain it any better than soundengineer did in this post ground offset
    hmmmmm, wow.

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    Why can I not get my KR to go away? I am correct in saying,

    Going to main spark knock retard, selecting all (high lighting all blue). Copy

    Then going to Main spark vs airmass vs RPM open throttle high octane.

    Then selecting all ( high lighting all blue) and copy paste special - subtract.

    I then go to compare file and SEE the numbers I changed/subtracted.

    I then go to "Write calibration only" and write. Then I go log again and the KR is still there. I just want this damn KR to go away. I also think/know I am running WAY rich. Poor gas mileage and the very strong smell of gas plus my gauge reading leads me to this. I want to bring my timing down. Im running close to 40* at WOT. That seems like to much to me. And this KR is driving me crazy. I have been trying to write down the KR down and noting where it is pulling timing, usually it is the exact same place, other times it is just a cell or two over. What am I doing wrong? Also, How can I make my rich condition lean out SAFELY? Is there any way I can post my logs on here and grant the people with HPtuner software the ability to view it? Im worried im running way to rich with too much timing,

    I have also blown my dip stick tube out 5 or so times. It does not happen every time I drive by no means. But once in a while it blows out spraying oil all over. That does not make me happy, and kinda scares me.

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    email your log and file to me at ibzrg6@aol.com

    40 is to much timing. How much KR are you seeing and what's your wideband saying your afr is? Did you verify that your wideband is matching hptuners when you log it?

    Are you running the stock pcv system? How many miles on the car? I would diagnose and fix that dipstick problem pretty quick. If you're building enough crank case pressure to blow your dipstick out then you're probably buiding enough pressure to blow front and rear main seals out too.

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    where should my afr be after the Calibration? i havent got my car running yet but i am getting the LC-1 set up. my DB gauge says 7.6. also which output did you guys use for your gauge? the lc-1 manual says #1 yellow, but the guage db guage manual says #2 brown. Thanks

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    brown goes to the gauge but you can reprogram either output to work with the gauge. You just have to go in with logworks and program the output. Mine shows full lean for the free air calibration.... 22.4

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    Quote Originally Posted by 0rion View Post
    brown goes to the gauge but you can reprogram either output to work with the gauge. You just have to go in with logworks and program the output. Mine shows full lean for the free air calibration.... 22.4
    ok cuz when i plug the yellow in it says 7.4. Thanks

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    yeah i was wondering about the tuning as well my car isnt running right and i cant find anbody who knows how to tune i live in ahsville N.C. i have got to get this thing going is an hp tuner easy to use?

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    Quote Originally Posted by zeus View Post
    yeah i was wondering about the tuning as well my car isnt running right and i cant find anbody who knows how to tune i live in ahsville N.C. i have got to get this thing going is an hp tuner easy to use?
    hptuners is very involved and takes a long time to learn all the sections, but you can start in some sections easily and see differences almost right away.
    half the fun is trying to learn the programing!
    Frost from LSXtune.com is right above you in Richmond Va if you want a very good tune quickly for a good price

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    TunedbyFrost.com Tuner Frost's Avatar
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    It's http://www.tunedbyfrost.com now, but yes, thanks

    Asheville is a pretty good hike though. As much as I don't want to give business away, I would rather be helpful. Tick Performance (non-sponsor so I cant post a link but Google works!) in Mooresville NC is MUCH closer and can do a fine job getting it tuned. You could tell them I recommended them as well. Best of luck.

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    frost, went to the track Friday and made some passes. Still didn't get my damn 11's but it's there. Best of 12.02 with a 1.69 short time. I've looked back through my logs and had a question regarding IAT's and AFR. I noticed that my first gear would be on the lean side (13.2ish) and by the time 3rd gear rolled around I would be on the rich side (12.5ish). It was warm out and my IAT's would be a little over 100 staging and launching but by the time I got to 3rd gear they would be in the 80's. I'm assuming that's causing the variation...anyway to tune for that or do I just have to live with it? I wasn't really seeing much knock....less than 1 degree during the run so I left the knock sensors enabled. Saw quite a bit during the burn out but not much during the run.
    I also looked back at my stage because my car kept wanting to push through the brakes. Looks like my fuddle 3500 is really stalling to about 2500 because that's what I was staging too and it was trying to push through the brakes. I see a PI in my future at some point. My next trip is going to be at night so those IAT's are a little better and I'm removing the seats and sway bar. I will get into the 11's this year. My car actually ran better times being hot lapped. That 12.02 was on a hot lap.

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    hey Orion, was that in the goat or the 98? just curious, what's your setup...... i'm hoping to get my goat to the track soon to see what she will run

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    Quote Originally Posted by mark21742 View Post
    hey Orion, was that in the goat or the 98? just curious, what's your setup...... i'm hoping to get my goat to the track soon to see what she will run
    that was in the bird. PRC 5.3 heads and a 228R cam. I'm thinking the cam and stall are both going bye bye next year. I'm not going to go huge on the cam but a little bigger. My drivability is too good. I could definitely live with it being a little more tempermental. When I was cam shopping the first time I got it down to the 228 and the 233/239.....kinda wishing I would've went the 233 route now.

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    Man you could really use more verter there... The IAT issue is most pronounced in the 98s and unfortunately, there is no IAT PE modifier OS that can be run on the 98. You can raise the Cyl Charge Temp Bias to bias fueling closer to the ECT and it will help. Once you change this number, you will likely have to touch up your VE and MAF, but it will help.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 0rion View Post
    that was in the bird. PRC 5.3 heads and a 228R cam. I'm thinking the cam and stall are both going bye bye next year. I'm not going to go huge on the cam but a little bigger. My drivability is too good. I could definitely live with it being a little more tempermental. When I was cam shopping the first time I got it down to the 228 and the 233/239.....kinda wishing I would've went the 233 route now.
    I have the same problem, I'm running a 220/224 112lsa and really thinking of steping up to a 228 as soon as my wallet will let me. the more I read, maybe a low 230s. I'm just afraid to go too big and lose a lot of low end.
    I do like the manners of my cam now, so what is your idea of the "ideal" lsa for an a4 gto.....Frost feel free to jump in and get your opinion

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    Quote Originally Posted by Frost View Post
    Man you could really use more verter there... The IAT issue is most pronounced in the 98s and unfortunately, there is no IAT PE modifier OS that can be run on the 98. You can raise the Cyl Charge Temp Bias to bias fueling closer to the ECT and it will help. Once you change this number, you will likely have to touch up your VE and MAF, but it will help.
    I've got a tci 3,000 stall now, if I went with a larger cam and stepped up to a 4,000, would it cruise a lot different or going down the road would it feel about the same. this is a street car, but as time goes by we will be seeing more and more track time

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    Quote Originally Posted by mark21742 View Post
    I have the same problem, I'm running a 220/224 112lsa and really thinking of steping up to a 228 as soon as my wallet will let me. the more I read, maybe a low 230s. I'm just afraid to go too big and lose a lot of low end.
    I do like the manners of my cam now, so what is your idea of the "ideal" lsa for an a4 gto.....Frost feel free to jump in and get your opinion
    don't get me wrong. The 228 is a great street cam. I just could stand for it to be a little less street friendly. My mph (113-114)also makes me think that I'm not making the power I should either. I got my 228 on a 114 being an auto just to help with ease of tuning more than anything. It is a very streetable cam. I could easily daily drive my car.

    Quote Originally Posted by mark21742 View Post
    I've got a tci 3,000 stall now, if I went with a larger cam and stepped up to a 4,000, would it cruise a lot different or going down the road would it feel about the same. this is a street car, but as time goes by we will be seeing more and more track time
    4k seems a little on the high side to me for something to cruise in but that's just my opinion. Once you're up to speed and it locks up you won't know the difference between it and your stock stall. It's that cruising around town that'll be different.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Frost View Post
    Man you could really use more verter there... The IAT issue is most pronounced in the 98s and unfortunately, there is no IAT PE modifier OS that can be run on the 98. You can raise the Cyl Charge Temp Bias to bias fueling closer to the ECT and it will help. Once you change this number, you will likely have to touch up your VE and MAF, but it will help.
    I've never been able to hook the car so until now the stall was a non-issue as I never really pushed it. I'm finally getting the car to hook so I wanted to rev it higher launching but that stall just ain't cutting it. Pretty disappointed in it really. I want a multi disc stall this time around so I can dyno the car and lock it up and see what it puts down. Never felt like gambling on this single disc.
    What about relocating the IAT? I had thought about doing that. I know there are 2 schools of thought on it but if it'll get my fueling more consistent and not cause detonation issues I may do that. The problem would be the location of it....the entire front end of the f-bodies is an easy bake oven once you stuff headers in there. I could put it up in the front bumper maybe.

  18. #318
    TJEA Retirement Home Dr.Crash's Avatar
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    can HP Tuners do a crank sensor relearn? or do i need to go to the dealer. Thanks

  19. #319
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dr.Crash View Post
    can HP Tuners do a crank sensor relearn? or do i need to go to the dealer. Thanks
    It can do it, but there is info needed that is not in scanner to get it to actually complete....

    I keep this in a text file (sorry, source forgotten)
    1. Set the parking brake and block the drive wheels. Make sure that the hood is closed.
    2. Start the engine and make sure that the engine coolant temperature is at least 158 degrees F. (70 degrees C.)
    3. Turn the engine off for at least 10 seconds.
    4. Select the crankshaft position variation learn procedure (CASE Learn)on your scan tool.
    5. Make sure that the transmission is in Park. Start the engine.
    6. Apply the brakes and hold the pedal firmly.
    7. Follow the scan tool instructions.

  20. #320
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    so for an M6 i would imagine that nuetral would be ok. once i get it running i am going to do this. thanks

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