How much HP/TQ would you think I would see with a tune?

[KIXASS]

Right now (to the best of my knowledge) my car has the stock tune with the following mods:
BBK 80mm throttle body
LS6 intake
Edelbrock shorty headers
No name HI-FLOW (suppose to be) catalytic convertors
Stainless Works 2.5" Y-pipe
3" cat-back with single-in/single-out Flowmaster Super44 muffler
4.10 gears
SLP lid
K&N filter
ram air mod
throttle body coolant by-pass

I tries to put on a descreened p/p mass air, but it ran like shit and the SES light came on. So I went out and bought a new MAF and installed it.

I was saving for a cam set-up and install. I was going to have them dyno tune it then. Right now the car idles fine and cruises fine, but when you mash the gas it feels like something is holding it back. It just don't pull as hard as I think it should, especially with the 4.10's.

I did pull 3 codes and they were P1133, P1153 & P1416. When I got the car from the previous owner, it had hollowed out stock cats with a SLP LM2 exhaust. Then it seemed to pull a lot harder up top than it does now. I ended up replacing them with a set of (no-name)Hi-flows off ebay and changing out the nasty sounding SLP loundmouth 2 system. I'm starting to think that maybe these cats aren't as "HI-FLOW" as they say they are. I worried that if I hollow them out, then I'll be right back to where I was before with an exhasut sound I don't like and $100 thrown away.

What do you guys think. This car has me all messed up. I got away from Mustangs thinking these were cheaper, faster and easier to work on. So far, none of those are true for me. I hope someone can shed some light on this and show me that these are some BADASS machines.

THANKS.

[jag42420]

[QUOTE=KIXASS;1082321]I got away from Mustangs thinking these were cheaper, faster and easier to work on. So far, none of those are true for me. [QUOTE]

P1133 o2 Insufficient switching bank 1 sensor 1
P1153 02 Insufficient switching bank 2 sensor 1
P1416 Secondary AIR system bank 2

First off, shorties are not a decent power gainer, and may not even flow as well as the stock manifolds did. You really need long tubes to get any decent gains. Second, Flowmasters don't flow well on LS1s, they do much better on a Mustang. With the LS6 intake swap, a tune would help you free up a few ponies, I'm guessing 10-15 as you are now. Before tuning, I'd suggest long tubes, stickier tires and a cam. A tune would be much more beneficial then.

What kind of Mustang are you used to running that low 13s stock LS1s are not faster than?

[Kamauxx]

You'd probably put down about 325-330 on the dyno, which means nothing IMHO...if you want to see how fast your car is, drive the car fast!

[richard head]

Right now (to the best of my knowledge) my car has the stock tune with the following mods:
BBK 80mm throttle body
LS6 intake
Edelbrock shorty headers
No name HI-FLOW (suppose to be) catalytic convertors
Stainless Works 2.5" Y-pipe
3" cat-back with single-in/single-out Flowmaster Super44 muffler
4.10 gears
SLP lid
K&N filter
ram air mod
throttle body coolant by-pass

I tries to put on a descreened p/p mass air, but it ran like shit and the SES light came on. So I went out and bought a new MAF and installed it.

I was saving for a cam set-up and install. I was going to have them dyno tune it then. Right now the car idles fine and cruises fine, but when you mash the gas it feels like something is holding it back. It just don't pull as hard as I think it should, especially with the 4.10's.

I did pull 3 codes and they were P1133, P1153 & P1416. When I got the car from the previous owner, it had hollowed out stock cats with a SLP LM2 exhaust. Then it seemed to pull a lot harder up top than it does now. I ended up replacing them with a set of (no-name)Hi-flows off ebay and changing out the nasty sounding SLP loundmouth 2 system. I'm starting to think that maybe these cats aren't as "HI-FLOW" as they say they are. I worried that if I hollow them out, then I'll be right back to where I was before with an exhasut sound I don't like and $100 thrown away.

What do you guys think. This car has me all messed up. I got away from Mustangs thinking these were cheaper, faster and easier to work on. So far, none of those are true for me. I hope someone can shed some light on this and show me that these are some BADASS machines.

THANKS.

3 words: CLEAN YOUR MAF. That K&N has been spewing oily goop all over it since you bought the car. If you're losing power up top, clean the damn thing off and then see how things go. If you are running a stock size maf, go back to the stock size TB... at least in my understanding of the issue you're just creating a bottleneck that doesn't produce any gains by running a bigger TB.

[camaro_five0]

Well as a reference, I have all the same bolt-ons you have minus the throttle body and 4.10 gears, but I have longtube headers instead of shorties along with a 3" catted y. I had a baseline of 326hp and 344 lb/ft of torque. After the tune I ended up with 338hp and 356 lb/ft of torque.

[KIXASS]

Good info.

Would you happen to have a dyno sheet you could post or email me? I would like to see how/where the power increase was. I see what it made peak, how about through the rpm range.

Cams must do wonders for these cars, because I would love to hit 400rwhp and by the look of things (yours and others dyno) you would have to make like 70+ rwhp. I can't see a cam making that alone with out head work although many people reach the 400rwhp mark.

How much do you think my shorty headers are holding me back compared to longtubes? I only have a 2.5" Y-pipe. I want the longtubes, but have a hard time justifying the cost + time to mereley gain a couple of hp. I would if the gains were quite noticeable though.

[camaro_five0]

If you want 400+ hp, you can get it out of a cam alone. A friend of mine put the T-Rex cam in his 01 Z28 and made 412hp with it...just cam and bolt-ons! Stock heads with no work done to them. The cam is really the only thing holding these cars back. GM put a truck cam in them from the factory to under-rate the LS1 in the F-bodies so that the Corvette would have the upper hand in performance.

[ibanez7]

the cats, shorty headers and the 2.5 Y-pipe are definitely holding your car back.

shorty headers are the equivalent of factory headers, the 2.5" y is pointless if you header scavenger is 3" and your I pipe is 3"

ditch the cats. A tune can delete any codes that might throw off an emission test.

With bolt-on long tube headers, no cats, and the SI5 cam from speed inc, I dyno 432rwhp. I also passed emissions.

As far as the LM2 exhaust sounding like crap. Hang on to it, because they sound and flow great in cammed cars. My car sounds mean, and fast with the lm2 and a cam.

[eautocad]

why am i only dyno'd at 347 rwhp with a comp cam 224-581, ported throttle body and intake manifold, mid length headers, magnaflow 80 series dual exhaust H setup, K&N and Lid, ram air mod, egr mod, and TB coolant mod? It seems like I should have more than 347. I also have a 3400 stall and positrac

Is the 224-581 com cam by lingenfelt not that agressive? You can't really hear my car lobe much, it idles really smooth and unless you have a trained ear you can't even tell its cammed.

[camaro_five0]

1.) It could be you have a very small, ineffective cam. What's the LSA? 114?
2.) Automatic transmissions always dyno less than a manual. You'll get a lower horsepower numbers but make up for it with smoother shifts during a race.
3.) Did you use a Mustang dyno? They put out lower numbers than a Dynojet.

Oh, and since you have a '98, an LS6 or FAST intake is a must.

[jag42420]

I also have a 3400 stall and positrac

Your stall will reduce your dyno numbers. Dyno is crap, only good for tuning. What you're looking for is better ETs. The LS6 intake would probably boost you 15-20HP with your cam.