help with studdering
This is a discussion on help with studdering within the Computer & Tuning forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; PCV line replaced less than a year ago by dealership. Has some oil on PCV valve so I tried a ...
11-25-2009, 01:15 PM #21
PCV line replaced less than a year ago by dealership. Has some oil on PCV valve so I tried a new one the other day.
AIR deleted and blocked off on exhaust manifold.
It sure does feel like it is a vacuum leak though.
Recent plug wires, plugs etc...
Replaced all 8 fuel injectors and fuel pump.
Replaced muffler with hooker muffler.
Shorty headers/ceramic coated off E-bay
Nick Williams checked my tune and said it looked good, but it does backfire. We could not get it to studder that day
Compression check was great on all 8 cylinders.
SLP MAF, lid and bellows.
Studdering is very random. It happens when I get under load at a fast rate. If I drive like a grandmother it seems fine. At least a slow grandma. lol.
*** $100 anyone? Seriously! ***
Last edited by TedsB4Csled; 11-25-2009 at 01:18 PM.
11-25-2009, 01:21 PM #22
11-25-2009, 01:28 PM #23
Don't you live near Richmond?
11-25-2009, 03:46 PM #24
Asheville, NC. About 6 hrs from Richmond.
11-25-2009, 05:58 PM #25
thought you were down near Colonial Heights for some reason... oh well.
11-26-2009, 02:30 AM #26
11-26-2009, 11:34 AM #27
Ok someone is advising me to replace the crank position sensor, clean the MAF, double check my fuel pressure & filter. Let's see if he gets the green!
11-27-2009, 01:59 AM #28
If this doesn't work. swap maf's with one of your buddies for a week. I have a brand new MAP sensor if you throw that code. I can try to get it to you. Funny though, I did almost everything in your list. Damn near traded my car!!!
The only other problem I've had similar was created by me int the search for the studder. I replaced the main power cable but didn't zip tie it. So my car started to short out under load. I found that the cable would swing back into the pulley. worth a try. also, there is a ground cable on the back side of your heads. Wiggle that wire to make sure it isn't loose. If you fix it send me $1.43 and keep the change.
11-27-2009, 02:52 AM #29
11-29-2009, 05:32 AM #30
11-29-2009, 07:29 AM #31
11-29-2009, 07:30 AM #32
cps is probably not the answer. seems like it would throw a code or something.
12-05-2009, 08:00 AM #33
Cold and snowy here. Guess I'll wait to clean the MAF. Can you take SLP MAF apart easily? Waiting on crankshaft position sensor too.
12-05-2009, 08:02 AM #34
12-09-2009, 11:08 AM #35
Well I got the CKP sensor, but it looks like I will have to take the starter off. So I decided to clean the MAF. Just finished, let's see what happens this week. Please God! Let this be it!
12-09-2009, 12:06 PM #36
Don't touch your crank sensor! Simple removal can lead to having to take the car to a dealership for a crank-relearn with a TechII.
There is no point in changing parts here and there on a guess though.
Try unplugging your MAF (before startup) and start the car. Let it warm up and drive it and see if it does it in SD.
12-09-2009, 01:01 PM #37
12-09-2009, 05:47 PM #38
I will not sell or trade this car. It will be a constant reminder to NEVER EVER EVER modify a car, buy a sports car or Chevy(or Ford). Miss my Subaru and Acura Thanks for all the folks here, and shops, that tried to help. I appreciate that more than anything. Happy Holidays!
Last edited by TedsB4Csled; 12-09-2009 at 05:50 PM.
12-09-2009, 06:30 PM #39
Having worked with both Subaru and Acura engines and electronics first hand, I can tell you they are cheap garbage. Honda is so cheap that they still use speed density on most of their engines, and they use the same harness plugs for almost every component because its cheaper. Not to mention the paper gaskets and leaking head gaskets and cam seals every 75K miles (Subaru). I just did one this week that had a misfire on cylinder 3 due to a misadjusted valvetrain, yet the ECU was reporting a cylinder 4 misfire, but cylinder 4 was fine. They are cheaply engineered so they can save money on powertrain costs.
Sounds like you just need to get it to someone that actually knows what they are doing and can diagnose it properly once and for all. Get it on the dyno with HP tuners, monitor all the parameters, and see whats throwing it off. Throwing parts at it is going to do nothing else than get you frustrated and make you go broke.
Last edited by Wesman; 12-09-2009 at 06:32 PM.
12-09-2009, 07:34 PM #40
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